Bill Dowd photoJeffrey Gimmel and Nina Bachinsky–Gimmel, owners of Swoon Kitchebar in the antique-centric town of Hudson, NY, a favorite week-ending spot for New York City dwellers, came across this wine during a trip to the Savenniéres appelation of France. They served it with a grilled poulet lunch.
• Domaine du Closel Savenniéres La Jalousie 2005
Michèle de Jessey's great-great-grandfather, an aide to Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, founded this winery. She inherited the estate in 1961. She became the first woman in France to be president of an Appellation Contrôlée.
The Savennières la Jalousie (formerly les Coulées, or Cuvée Classique, i.e. dry) is a classic dry Savennières chenin blanc from a stainless-steel cuvée of young and older vines. It has the signature oiliness of the expression, and provides herbal notes and touches of ripe fruit: thyme, lemon, grapefruit.
The wine continues to open after pouring, releasing hints of lime, tarragon, honey and and straw, leading to a lengthy finish that heightens the enjoyment.
The suggested retail price is in the $22 range.
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