NY craft distilled spirits

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New York's fledgling craft distilling movement is gaining momentum as well as expertise. At a recent seminar and tasting held in Saratoga Springs, I had the opportunity to try several flights of products.

UNAGED SPIRITS

• LiV Vodka: This spirit, utilizing the region’s signature potatoes, gets your attention immediately with its slightly citrusy nose, its pleasing oiliness and its hints of grapefruit and rose petals. I’d put LiV right into the top echelon of potato vodkas I’ve sampled in recent years. From Long Island Spirits.

• Harvest Spirits Core Vodka: This apple-based clear spirit is true to its origin with a vaguely apple note and a hint of spice. Smooth, warm and clean finishing. From Golden Harvest Farms in Columbia County.

• Hidden Marsh BEE Vodka: A honey-based spirit with a bit of a sting. Not that acrid sharpness lower-priced vodkas have, but a pleasant note on the tongue, and a warm, smooth finish. From the Montezuma Winery in Seneca Falls.

• Mazza Chautauqua Plum Eau de Vie: This is a delicate spirit, with floral notes and touches of cardamom and orange. An excellent product. From Mazza Chautauqua Cellars in Chautauqua County.

• Seneca Drums Gin: This is an extremely distinctive gin, with botanicals that provide the imbiber with clover, menthol and spice, all things that will hold up to a dry vermouth or a fruit juice when mixed into a cocktail. From Finger Lakes Distilling in Burdett.

• Tuthilltown Spirits New York Corn Whiskey: A delightfully robust and smooth product, not at all the “moonshine” its name might connote. Powerful alcohol notes, typical of the genre. From Tuthilltown Spirits in Orange County.

AGED SPIRITS

• Tuthilltown Spirits Manhattan Rye Whiskey: Spicy, floral, a great nose. At once robust and clean on the palate. An excellent addition to the category.

• McKenzie Rye Whiskey: A pronounced caramel and clove yin-and-yang that makes this rich spirit distinctive. From Finger Lakes Distilling.

• Harvest Spirits Cornelius Applejack: A nicely old-fashioned style to this recipe, which results in touches of apple, cloves, caramel and violet.

• Hidden Marsh Queen’s Flight Honey Brandy: A multi-level taste profile, with eucalyptus on top and warm honey notes below. An underlying smoothness to the overall taste.

• Warwick Valley Bourbon Barrel Apple Liqueur: This is a hard cider with aged apple brandy added, finished in once-used bourbon barrels. There is a buttery feel to it, with pronounced flavor of Jonagold apples. A gentle, refined spirit.

CORDIALS

• Mazza Chautauqua Grappa of Steuben: Steuben and vidal are the two most-used grappa base ingredients among New York distillers. This version is clean, slightly floral and has a honeyed finish.

• Long Island Spirits Sorbetta Lemon: Immediately reminiscent of French pastille candies in the aroma. A lovely lemon yellow color, fruit forward but with a distinct touch of butterscotch in the finish.

• Long Island Spirits Sorbetta Orange: Orange cake frosting comes immediately to mind. A touch cloying in the middle notes, but the citrus then comes to the rescue and the finish is clean and refreshing.

• Warwick Valley Sour Cherry Cordial: This is the way I like cherry pie to taste — a hint of cinnamon and cloves, a touch of the tartness of the New York Montmorency cherries, made with a brandy of cherries, grapes and apples. Superb.

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American Fruits Sour Cherry Liqueur

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The Warwick Vallery Winery & Distillery in Orange County, NY, was the state's first fruit micro-distillery in modern times. At the distillery, it is developing a line of American Fruits-brand ports, brandies and eau de vies.

• American Fruits Sour Cherry Liqueur

This clear ruby liqueur has non of the cloying thickness of so many of its ilk. It is a combination of fresh New York Montmorency cherries and their proprietary distilled spirit, a brandy of grapes, cherrues and apples.

The first aroma of the finished product fairly screams "Cherry pie!" But, don't be fooled into thinking this is just another overwrought product.

Hints of clove and cinnamon mingle with the aroma of robust cherries, then the palate-clinging yet clean liquid hits the tongue with a complex warmth that trails off into a pleasing aftertaste of crisp fruit.

An excellent cordial, sold at 20% alcohol by volume (40 proof).

Suggested retail price: $14.99 for the 375ml bottle.

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McKenzie Rye Whiskey

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Put two unrelated guys together who share not only a surname but a love of spirits and the result is Finger Lakes Distilling, a craft distillery in the heart of New York's Finger Lakes wine country. The partners are Brian McKenzie and Earl McKenzie, and they produce a line of spirits that includes, rye, bourbon, gin, vodka and liquers.

• McKenzie Rye Whiskey

This golden amber rye, bottled at 45.5% alcohol by volume (91 proof), is on the market at a good time. Nationwide, the rye resurgence continues unabated in America.

The rye's color is an eyecatcher, as is the squat bottle reminscent of what once was the standard shaped bottle for this most American of spirits.

As a New York State Farm Distillery, Finger Lakes uses locally-grown grains. This non-chill-filtered spirit is made from a mash of rye, corn and barley malt. It is aged in new charred quarter-cask oak and given a finish in sherry barrels from local wineries.

Once inside, the attraction grows. This rye is immediately assertive on the palate, offering a bite of clove smoothed with notes of caramel and clover. Hints of orange peel, mint and cardamom come through, with a buttery finish.

This is an excellent example of the craft distiller's art, particularly interesting since it comes from a comparatively new enterprise.

Suggested retail price: $40 for the 750ml bottle.

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Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel

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Sustainable agriculture is the emerging thing in the global wine industry. In the Rhone Valley of France, one of the oldest commercial terroirs in the world, Domaine de la Mordorée is one of the leading winemakers using such methods.

• Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel

It is refreshing to come across a rosé I can call something other than summery and light. Mordorée's Tavel is as hearty as any rosé you'll encounter.

This blend of traditional grape varieties from the region includes Grenache (60%), Syrah (20%), Cinsault (10%) and Clairette (10%). The result is a smooth, fruit forward wine with a restrained bouquet but palate notes of young strawberries and ripe raspberries along with floral hints.

I tested it against a bolder meal than you'd usually pair up with a rosé -- panko-crusted sauteed chicken breasts with a heavily-herbed sauce of fresh diced tomatoes, shallots, capers and jalapeños, sided by fresh spinach and pomme frites.

It not only held up, it aided the various items on the plate, the blend acting as a connecting flavor factor from the first sip to the last bite.

Suggested retail price: $24.99.

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Diplomático Reserve Blanco Rum

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In a field dominated by industriale style rums, it's nice to do a sampling of an agricole style -- one made from sugar cane rather than molasses -- with obvious quality.

• Diplomático Reserve Blanco Rum

This ultra premium spirit was introduced to the global market last fall at RumFest in London. It has gotten excellent early notices, with gold medals in a variety of competitions that still value gold rather than awarding it simply to attract more paid entries.

Diplomático is made in Venezuela by Destilerias Unidas, which utilizes three pot stills and four column stills to produce nearly 50 different rum recipes. It also produces Cacique rum and is the major spirit producer for the Pampero blend.

Everything except this Diplomático Blanco is made from molasses. It is distilled from sugar cane four times, filtered five, and mellowed in white oak casks but catches none of the color from the wood.

The nose instantly offers up light floral notes with a vague promise of pineapple. On the palate we begin to notice elements of vanilla, cream and a touch of spice that is at once velvety and peppery.

The finish is long, warm and rich, with a tropical taste of coconut and banana. Excellent structure and layering, making it a fine sipping rum.

Suggested retail price: about $30 for the 750ml bottle.

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Passoã

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Sometimes a liqueur gets short shrift among tasting notes collections because they're not really at their best when consumed straight. But, when they work well in cocktails, they deserve special notice. This is one such product.

• Passoã: The Passion Drink

The label design, the Web site sales pitch, indeed the whole mood of Passoã screams Brazil and the Caribbean even if the spelling of "flavor" is the English style, "flavour." However, this 40-proof liqueur is a product of France and is imported by Remy Cointreau USA.

Origin aside, the passion fruit flavor base is bold and pleasing, an inviting tangy sweetness that immediately got me thinking about cocktail combinations.

The makers most often suggest orange or grapefruit juice, and even have added some infused versions to the product line -- cocõ (coconut), mango and anañas (pineapple). I decided to try it in an even more Brazilian mannner -- with cachaça. The result was excellent.

2 parts Boca Loca cachaça
1 part Passoã
Pineapple juice
Maraschino cherry for garnish

Half-fill a cocktail tumbler with fresh ice, pour cachaça and Passoã over the ice, top with pineapple juice, stir briskly to blend, garnish with a cherry and serve.

Suggested retail price: $17.99 for the 750ml bottle.

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Ron Atlantico Private Cask Rum

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It takes a long time for Ron Atlantico rum to go from its birthplace in the Dominican Republic to market throughout the Caribbean -- and now in the U.S. -- due to its multi-layered aging process. It is worth the wait.

• Ron Atlantico Private Cask Rum

This Dominican gem is a blend of several small-batch dark rums. But, it is more than that.

The blend then is placed in small, used bourbon barrels -- the "private cask" in the name -- and the marriage is made for another year or two. But, it is more than that.

After that aging step, the rum then is placed in another set of barrels and aged from 15 to 25 years.

What results is a complex rum appealing to eye, nose and palate. The classic flavors from rum's sugar base -- caramel and molasses -- are immediately evident, quickly followed on both nose and tongue by the bourbon barrel notes of vanilla, butterscotch and oakiness.

Ron Atlantico, which I tasted with simply a cube of ice to help open it, is smooth and warm while at the same time bold and assertive, giving your palate something to mull over. The longer one swirls the sample and allows it to continue opening, the more vanilla comes through. However, at no time was the sweetness out of balance.

Suggested retail price: about $35 for the 750ml bottle, each one numbered.

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Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage

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This red comes from a French specialist in Syrah-based Rhone Valley wines.

• Paul Jaboulet Aine 2005 "Les Jalets" Crozes Hermitage

The syrah grape is a wonderful wine grape, plump and bursting with goodness if the weather has been kind. And, when they are grown in the sandy soil along the Rhone River in France, they are often of the highest qualty.

That is immediately apparent in the rich, soft, deep flavor of this particular expression, the Les Jalets, from quarter-century-old vines. The word "jalets" is from the Old French for pebbles left in the region when alpine glaciers receded.

The ruby violet color promises much, and that is delivered with a spicy berry nose, followed by the flavors of black currants and even a hint of stone fruits. They mix well in the nose and on the palate.

This is a remarkably drinkable wine just hitting its peak. I'd recommend it on its own or with adventurous cuisine.

Suggested retail price: $23.

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Southern Comfort Ready-to-Drink Cocktails

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Southern Comfort has been a popular American liqueur since it was created in the late 19th Century in New Orleans. Now, the Brown-Forman label has added two ready-to-drink (RTD) cocktails to its brand portfolio. Both are of the "pour over ice and drink" variety.

• Sweet Tea Cocktail

This flavor actually tastes like, well, sweet tea, with the slight heat of Southern Comfort that touches the back of the tongue and warms the throat in a most pleasant way. Even a vague hint of orange can be detected, adding a complexity to the formula.

Sweet tea, a Southern drink of great popularity, has made its way into the spirits world in the past few years, spurred along perhaps most by the instant popularity of Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka from South Carolina and Burnett's Sweet Tea Vodka from Heaven Hill Distilleries. However, this Southern Comfort version has less alcohol punch, thus making it a more viable libation for warm summer months, or just a casual drink that needs no fussing.

Suggested retail price: $19.99 for the 1.75-liter bottle, the only size being marketed.

• Hurricane Cocktail

The original is a New Orleans staple, purportedly invented at Pat O'Brien's bar in the French Quarter. It should hit the palate of people who like a fruity taste to their light cocktails. The original contained both light and dark rums plus juices from oranges, limes and passion fruit.

The Southern Comfort version has a fresh, light fruity taste and the rosey color of the O'Brien's cocktail that came from the addition of grenadine syrup. In this recipe, one can taste the soft fruits, even a fleeting note of grapefruit in the aftertaste. Very easy to drink.

Suggested retail price: $19.99 for the 1.75-liter bottle, the only size being marketed.

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The Glenlivet Portfolio

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Today, the Glenlivet portfolio has grown under the ownership of the international corporation Pernod Ricard to include six whiskies -- the basic 12-year-old expression, a 15-year-old French oak reserve, the Nadurra (Celtic for “natural”) 16-year-old, as well as 18- and 21-year-old expressions and, for just the past eight months, the XXV, a 25-year-old. The Glenlivet Cellar Collection also has seven releases, with the 1972 expression the latest on the market.

• 12-Year-Old

Much of the signature honey and floral flavors are immediately accesible, with a soft finish leaving a trace of vanilla on the palate.

Suggested retail price range: $42 and up.

• 15-Year-Old French Oak

My particular favorite among the Glenlivets. It spends 12 years in used American white oak barrels, then a portion of it is matured in French Limousin oak before being returned to the whole. It is the only Glenlivet that uses French oak. It presents citrus and cedar notes in the opening nose and everything from pepper to mango on the tongue, with a long, clean slightly spicy finish.

Suggested retail price range: $49 to $54.

• 18-Year-Old

This is aged in American white oak, with a small amount finished in used oloroso sherry casks to make use of the softer, more porous wood that helps intensify the notes of fruit, nuts and florals, with honey, banana and almonds the most pronounced flavors.

Suggested retail price: $80.

• 21-Year-Old

Some charred wood comes through from the used American oak casks, along with slightly more fruit and spiciness than in the 18. The color runs to deep amber, and the flavor profile to pears, spiced oranges and vanilla with a delicate yet lingering finish.

Suggested retail price: $100 to $112.

• Nadurra

This is a cask strength whisky (115.2 proof, or 56.1% alcohol by volume) best sampled as a 3-to-1 water-to-whisky mixture. It is non-chill filtered, which means it could get cloudy on the shelf. Nothing wrong with that. The flavor is light, yet crisp, quickly giving way to intense notes of honey and toffee. Long, lingering finish.

Suggested retail price: $60 to $65.

• XXV

This is 23 years in American white oak, two years in oloroso sherry casks, and worth the wait. A creamy orange and honey flavor, with definite elements of almonds and ginger in a complex structure.

Suggested retail price: $330 and up.

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The Diamond Standard Vodka

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It's not the first vodka to be filtered through diamonds (see my tasting notes on Baojing 168), but this Polish creation may be the classiest packaging to come along in years. Although the spirit is made in Poland, the company is owned by Diamond Beverages LLC of Lake Forest, IL.

• The Diamond Standard Vodka

When I first saw a bottle of this vodka, I was mesmerized by the clean, understated elegance of the packaging. A true work of art.

It's a tall, slim perfume-grade Saverglass bottle with a round-cut 25 mm Swarovski crystal imbedded near the neck, and raised glass droplets appearing to come from the crystal. Around the neck is a silver-metal medallion attesting to the authenticity of the Swarovski element.

It is truly a work of art, celebrating Poland's foremost crystal artisan. Curious, then, that the stopper is made of plastic and a compound "cork." On my bottle, the two separated when the glue gave way, which necessitated employing a pair of pliers to open the bottle. (Note: Notified of this, a company rep told me "The cap separation ... has been corrected. The new production will be the same clear top without the cork; it will be a screw-on top.")

Inside, however, was a testament to the overall craftsmanship of Polish vodkas, be they made from potatoes or from grains. In this case, it's the latter.

The small-batch vodka is crafted at the historic Polmos Siedlce distillery from Dankowski Diamond Rye, the most preferred of Polish grains. It is distilled four times and filtered four times through a proprietary process using thousands of De Beers diamonds.

Diamond Standard is quickly moving to the top of my list of best grain-based vodkas. It is an uncommonly smooth, warm spirit, lacking any hint of edginess. As always with ultra-premium vodkas, forget the definition of "odorless." This has ephemeral hints of citrus and grassiness and the barest hint of thyme.

Suggested retail price: $79 for the 750ml bottle.

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Finlandia Tangerine Fusion Vodka

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Finlandia's latest vodka product, Tangerine Fusion, debuts on the U.S. market today. The company already had such flavored vodkas as lime, cranberry, grapefruit, mango and wildberries in addition to its basic unflavored spirit.

• Finlandia Tangerine Fusion Vodka

I've found some orange- or tangerine-infused vodkas a bit too sweet for my taste, something that tends to overwhelm many cocktail recipes. This product avoids that problem, with a tangy citrus note that smacks more of the tangerine zest than of the sweeter pulp.

That may be because the flavoring is natural, rather than a chemical additive. It comes through that way in the nose and then on the palate, gentling a bit as the sample is savored and slowly opens.

There is a somewhat floral note as well, a creaminess and warmth to the nicely filtered product, yet nothing reluctant about it. You know you're drinking a full-bodied vodka.

Like most flavored vodkas, particularly citrus-infused, this is a spirit best consumed as part of a cocktail. One example, created for Finlandia by celebrity bartender Tony Abou-Ganim, is the "Summer Solstice." It contains two ounces of the Tangerine Fusion, a half-ounce each of Cointreau, Campari bitters and blood orange juice, three-quarters of an ounce of lemon sour mix, shaken with ice, strained into a martini glass and garnished with a lime twist.

Suggested retail price: $18.99 for the 750ml bottle.

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Faretti Biscotti Famosi

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Faretti, the Italian maker of numerous liqueurs, prides itself on making the liquid version of iconic pastries taste eerily similar to those of the solid versions.

• Faretti Biscotti Famosi

If I didn't know better, I'd swear that the craftsmen at Faretti had simply crushed a batch of biscotti into a slightly syrupy form and bottled it.

Of course, that's not the method for making this liqueur, but the result is like having the rustic, iconic Italian baked treat in drinkable form. The signature flavors of almond, honey and even the biscuit itself are immediately obvious in both the nose and on the palate.

The more you sip the more the flavor profile opens, revealing hints of citrus, fennel, caramel and vanilla.

This is an excellent liqueur, equally serviceable as a standalone sip or in mixed drinks. Its layered flavors make it work in such diverse combinations as a "Liquid Cannoli" (1 part Faretti with 2 parts milk or cream) and "Tuscan Sidecar" (1 part Faretti, 2 parts cognac, 1 part lemon juice, dash of orange bitters).

As for me, I'd recommend it in place of dessert. It is that good, and that satisfying.

Suggested retail price: $25.99.

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Tenampa Azul Tequila

Gran Centenario is one of the major tequila brand names, and the company has a lengthy line of products.

• Tenampa Azul Tequila

This expression of 100% blue agave tequila ("azul" is Spanish for "blue") may be rested for two months in charred American oak barrels, but it retains the heat and edge of a new spirit. That's a good thing for those who prefer a bitier tequila compared to the more aged expressions taking an ever-larger chunk of the market.

The roasted agave notes come through immediately on the nose, joined by hints of green apple, oak and roses.

An ever-so-slight element of sweetness -- banana and vanilla -- is evident in the complex flavor profile, yet the heat and slight bite prevail.

This is an excellent reposado, ideal for cocktails because the taste will hold up, and because it's a good value for the price. And, just in time for Cinco de Mayo festivities.

Suggested retail price: $21.99.

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Villa Antinori Bianco

Villa Antinori is one of my regular house Italian reds, and perhaps the color for which the ancient label is best known. However, the 600-year-old Tuscan winemaker also produces some very nice whites. This is one such.

• Villa Antinori Bianco, Toscana IGT 2008

This is an example of summer in a bottle. A very reasonably priced, spritely, crisp summer.

The Toscana IGY is a blend of four estate-grown grapes -- 70% Trebbiano & Malvasia, and 30% Chardonay Toscano, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio.

The result is a lightly golden color, a floral nose hinting mostly of rose petals and clover blossoms, and a taste of rich grapes and mild melon, apple and pear, with a clean acidity on the finish.

This will pair nicely with grilled chicken or fish, a cheese-and-fruit platter, or even a bold panini.

Suggested retail price: $14.

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Tequila Ocho Plata

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A vintage-dated tequila? The second such has just hit the markets in time for the Cinco de Mayo celebration, and it's from the same Corona Del Mar, CA, company that introduced dated Mexican-made tequilas with its 2008 line. For 2009, 12,695 bottles were produced, according to the label information on my sample, compared to about 11,000 bottles of the 2008.

• Tequila Ocho Plata

Tequila is, by its very nature, essentially a young spirit. Yes, there are reposados, añejos, even extra añejos, but the quality of the fire and passion of the younger spirit are the hallmarks to be assessed.

Both the plata and reposado varieties are available now, but the 2009 añejo, aged for a full year, will not be released until July.

Tequila Ocho is the product of collaboration between third-generation tequila maker Felipe Camarena and Tomas Estes, ambassador of Tequila to Europe. The blue agaves are harvested from various Camarena ranches, but care is made not to mix fruits from different areas, thus preserving the "terroir" so prized in the wine industry and just now being noticed in the tequila world.

Tequila Ocho Plata has taken on a bolder character this year.

The original Rancho Carrizal Estate expression was a creamy, soft spirit with touches of banana, mango and sweetness. This year's plata, from Rancho Las Pomez Estate, has more of the agave base in the nose, along with hints of lime and mint. On the palate, a pleasant oiliness carries with it elements of jalapeño, carambola, pimiento and pepper.

Suggested retail price: An ultra-premium pricing, with the plata and reposado at $60 and $70, respectively, for the 750ml bottle. When the añejo -- from El Carrizal -- comes out, it will be priced at $80.

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Tanteo Flavored Tequilas

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Tequila goes beautifully with so many things -- limes, fruits, even jalapeño peppers. The latter is the key to the flavors in a trio of infused Tanteo tequilas, even if the major flavorings are from other sources.

• Tanteo Flavored Tequilas

Tequilas, at least 100% blue agave-based expressions, have enough variables in their flavor profile to satisfy most people. But infusions are the order of the day -- take a look at the vodka shelves in your local spirits shop -- so some entrepreneurs see tequila as ripe to join that contemporary market niche.

Tanteo's infused blanco tequilas do not disappoint. Although jalapeño is the base infusion for the three flavors I tried, it gets top billing in only one. The others are chocolate and tropical. They were launched just a few months ago, the result of a plan by company CEO and co-founder Jonathan Rojewski who had to get the tequila regulating body of Mexico to waive its restriction against infusions.

The tequilas are distilled, infused and bottled in Tequila, the Mexican city that is the heart of the tequila industry.

The tropical flavor offers many fruit notes from extractions of mango, pineapple and guanabana. It reminded me of a semi-sweet piña-style tropical drink all on its own, with a slight peppery touch of the jalapeño for balance.

The chocolate smells like the kind of rich malted fountain drink we used to get many years ago, easy evidence of the roasted, malted and raw cocoa used in its creation. Again, a touch of pepper from the jalapeño is a perfect Mexican balance of unsweetened chocolate and heat found in some of its cuisine such as molés.

The jalapeño flavor itself has a fresh, clean, peppery nose from four separate infusions of organic peppers. There is a lush heat to this creation that demands restrained sipping, thus allowing the imbiber to experience the full range of the agave nectar and bitey pepper notes.

The bottle was designed by company co-founder Lincoln Mayne, a graphic artist with roots in Manhattan's SoHo neighborhood. It is made of handcrafted rustic glass with naturally occuring bubbles, a cork enclosure and a vintage-style wax seal, all much nicer than the small sampling bottles pictured above.

Suggested retail price: $45 for the 750ml bottle.

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Tres Generaciones Plata Tequila

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Tres Generaciones traces its roots to 1873 when Don Cenobio Sauza created his first tequila. The brand name covers his tenure as well as those of his son Eladio and his son Javier -- three generations. The company history says Don Cenobio was the first to export tequila to the U.S.

• Tres Generaciones Plata Tequila

This expression is a delight from the first sniff to the last nuance on the palate. I don't recall having such a positive response to a Tres Generaciones blanco before this re-launch.

A pleasantly buttery, peppery nose immediately made me realize this was a tequila to be savored. The more it is inhaled, the more the faint nuances of banana, jalapeño and tequila nectar emerge.

This is an unaged 100% Weber blue agave estate-grown product, created from agave piñas harvested on the Sauza ranch in Jalisco state.

It is triple distilled, but that is a term open to interpretation; in the distillation process a spirit can be "distilled" numerous times, but that doesn't necessarily guarantee smoothness. However, in this case it has resulted in a tequila with a silken mouthfeel, a full-bodied expression with lush middle notes, and a long, slow finish that gives rise to the desire to quickly take the whole trip again.

I mentioned this is a re-launch. Tres Geraciones' 80-proof tequilas are packaged in plata, reposado and añejos expressions in its familar bottle with a barrel-shaped bottom but the bottles now feature a front label with medallions of the three founding Dons, the family crest on the neck, and a textured, beaten medal collar -- silver for the plata, gold for the reposado, bronze for the añejo -- and the bottle is topped with a wood and cork stopper.

Suggested retail price: $45.99 for the Plata in a 750ml bottle, $47.99 for the reposado and $49.99 for the añejo.

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Red Stag by Jim Beam

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Billed as the first Jim Beam innovation in more than a decade, this black cherry-infused bourbon joins the industry trend toward more flavored spirits. It will be on the market in June.

• Red Stag by Jim Beam

As a longtime bourbon drinker, I'm a bit set in my ways. I like several brands, but I started on Jim Beam way back when, and that's my go-to whiskey. But, I also find the small-batch brands -- Elijah Craig, Booker's, Basil Hayden, Baker's -- enjoyable, both straight or in cocktails, so I'm not against a little variety.

That said, it took me several tries to cozy up to this new offering. A classic Manhattan cocktail is whiskey, sweet vermouth, bitters and a maraschino cherry. Sometimes a little bit of the cherry juice is added for those who like their drinks on the sweeter side.

Beam says Red Stag is an "extension of the cherry infusion made popular in the Manhattan cocktail." I'd quibble a bit with that, since the cocktail's cherry is maraschino, not black cherry as is used in this new expression. They're two different tastes.

Thus, when I tried Red Stag as the primary ingredient in a Manhattan I found it far too sweet for my taste. A tasting companion expressed the same reaction. I also tried it cut half-and-half with regular Jim Beam bourbon plus the usual vermouth and bitters. It still didn't have the appeal I sought.

But, when we tried it straight, at room temperature, in a tasting glass, we both liked it. What we have here, in my view, is a nice liqueur: warm, with a bit of spice from the rye in the grain mash, with mild notes of vanilla and caramel from the oak maturation that balanced off the black cherry infusion.

Suggested retail price: $3 above Jim Beam White. So, local pricing will prevail.

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A 9-rum Caribbean tasting

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While in Frederikstedt, St. Croix, to meet with master distiller Gary Nelthropp at Cruzan Rum, I had the opportunity in a converted 19th Century carriage house on the Cruzan complex to do a blind tasting of nine 80-proof rums of varying style: Cruzan, Bacardi, Pyrat and Myers's. The tasting was led by Jim Beam Brands' master mixologist Bobby "Bobby G" Gleason.

• Bacardi Superior: A honey fragrance with a surprisingly lingering finish atop banana and apple notes and the characteristic Bacardi mild burn.

• Cruzan Estate Light: A gentle nose with honey and applesauce notes, then elements of caramel, vanilla and sweet apple in the mid-range and finish.

• Bacardi Reserva: More of the honey nose, but with the added element of butterscotch, which made the slight acidity of the taste a surprise. A round, structured mouth-feel.

• Cruzan 2-Year Dark: Here we moved into softer, more refined fragrances of brown sugar and tropical tastes of coconut and pineapple. A very agreeable product.

• Bacardi 8: Fragrances of almonds and creme brulee precede a spicy, nutty rum with the tropical notes of pineapple and toasted coconut. Complex and pleasing.

• Pyrat XO: This is a blend of rums from nine different pot stills. The strong aroma of orange peel creates an expectation of something like a Grand Marnier, and that's what comes through along with touches of anise and cinnamon. A nice dessert offering.

• Cruzan Single Barrel: Vanilla, almonds and allspice all compete in the nose, but the taste is dry, soft and Scotch-like with a hint of orange. Very nice sipping rum.

• Myers's Origional Dark: Notes of maple and chocolate in the nose, which match up with the dark color, then more chocolate, plus coffee and some molasses in the haste and finish.

• Cruzan Black Strap Navy Style: This two-year-old is flavored with dark molasses, and that's what comes through in the nose and in the initial taste. It quickly softens, and coffee elements come through, leading to a long, smooth finish.

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LiV Vodka

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Long Island lost the vast majority of its farms when the post-World War II housing boom sent streams of people east from New York City and in from other states in search of affordable housing from the late 1940s well into the early '60s. Luckily, the famous Long Island potato survived on the still-agricultural far eastern points of the island. Here's one reason I use the word "luckily."

• LiV Vodka

LiV rhymes with "5," and has that many influences. Not the vodka itself. That's 100% Long Island potatoes, which immediately puts it into the super-premium category, as well as the gluten-free category an increasing number of consumers look for. But it does have (1.) German-made stills, (2.) tamper-proof tin wrapping caps from Portugal, (3.) a brushed aluminum-topped Italian cork, (4.) a bottle made of French glass with painted labels, and (5.) branded, custom wooden shipping cases made of Western pine.

Those are a combination of positive conceits and marketing strategies. But, as always in this game, it's what's inside that in the final analysis trumps everything else.

Company founders Richard Stabile and Dan Pollicino have nothing to be concerned about. LiV gets your attention immediately with its slightly citrusy nose, its pleasing oiliness and its hints of grapefruit and rose petals. No need even to chill LiV as one tends to do to other vodkas to bring out its nuances. Properly crafted potato vodkas tend to stand on their own without a lot of temperature tweaking by the drinker.

I'd put LiV right into the top echelon of potato vodkas I've sampled in recent years -- Chopin from Poland, Cirrus from Virginia, 44˚North from Idaho.

Suggested retail price: $38 for the 750ml bottle.

[Note: This review originally was posted in August 2008 when LiV was available only in a very limited area. It is being re-posted because the distiller has just announced a distribution deal with Winebow Inc., the third largest distributor in New York State, to sell LiV not only in New York, but also in Connecticut, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Pennsylvania and Washington DC.]

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Belvedere IX

Belvedere Vodka is not one of the pack that comes up with new products seemingly every few months. But when it does add to its portfolio, it does so with a flourish.

• Belvedere IX

Two years ago, in a private tasting lunch in New York with Plymouth Gin master distiller Sean Harrison, we were discussing the popularity of vodka compared to gin. He admitted there were some very good vodkas on the market that presented huge hurdles for gin to clear in its attempt at a comeback. However, he noted of the continual tinkering with vodka recipes, "If they keep on going, pretty soon they'll invent gin."

Well, they have. At least Belvedere, the Polish distiller, has, even though it is calling its new creation vodka.

Vodka and gin both begin as neutral spirits, but gin departs from that by the addition of various botanicals, predominantly juniper berries which provide its major taste component. Vodka often is changed by flavor infusions such as fruits, but not usually by any complicated botanical recipe.

Belvedere IX (pronounced "one X") has nine flavor additions to its base -- guarana, ginger, ginseng, acai, eucalyptus, cinnamon leaf, almond, jasmine and black cherry. Belvedere can call it a vodka all it wants, but to me it's a gin. And a damned tasty one.

Cold from several hours in the freezer, IX is an absolute delight sipped straight. The menthol-like coolness of the eucalyptus comes through immediately, with the zip of the ginger evident on tongue and palate. A vague hint of black cherry comes in on the finish. A lot of very distinct flavors somehow fusing into one pleasing one.

This is a very special "vodka" I'd recommend drinking very cold, as I did, and without fussing with it. It's meant to be part of a cocktail recipe, say its makers, but I don't know that I'd go that route immediately. The proprietary recipe, and the base vodka made from the signature Dankowskie Gold rye of Poland, has resulted in a fine product all on its own merits.

The company, named for the country's presidential palace, just this week launched Belvedere IX in club circles in conjunction with Parisian graffiti artist Andre Saraiva who designed the label -- a "tagged" glossy black bottle with electric pink graffiti, reinventing the trademark palace and trees as a nighttime vision.

Suggested retail price: Not yet set. If it's not immediately available in your favorite spirits shop, be patient. It will be by spring.

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Come visit me

This is the logo for examiner.com, a multi-topic Web site created by the same company that started the free-distribution Examiner newspapers in major U.S. cities.

I've just signed on as the Web site's national drinks columnist, and I'm inviting you to join me here as well as on this site, for all the latest in beverage news and views -- spirits, wine, brews, non-alcoholic drinks.

(Bonus for those of you interested in the Upstate New York restaurant scene: I'm also examiner.com's columnist for that topic. You can find it here.

Bluecoat American Dry Gin

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This is a product of Philadelphia Distilling, made in a copper pot still with triple filtered water and a proprietary botanical recipe.

• Bluecoat American Dry Gin

This is another formidable entry in the resurgent gin category, packaged in a beautiful blue, embossed bottle with a wooden stopper that give it an old-fashioned, enticing appearance.

I gave it the usual gin taste test -- straight and in a traditional martini. It passed with flying colors in both ways, and a follow-up tasting with several other people met with uniformly high marks.

Bluecoat is a 94-proof concoction with the distinctive, earthy gin flavor of organic juniper berries, but noticeably balanced with notes of citrus, spice and florals. Its smoothness is evident, thanks to batch distillation that requires very slow heating of the pot, allowing for maximum separation of alcohols and removal of impurities. That is particularly apparent in the straight-taste trial, and also aids in the mixing with Noilly Pratt dry vermouth for a superb martini.

Suggested retail price: $28 for the 750ml bottle.

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Pol Roger Champagne

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This champagne house was founded in 1849. Until 1955 it made champagne from other companies' grapes. Since then it has grown its own, and today has estate fields near Épernay. Pol Roger has two expressions of non-vintage cuvées. This is one of them.

• Pol Roger Extra Cuvee de Reserve Champagne Rich

This expression, a demi-sec, is one-third each of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, an excellent blend that provides a yeasty, full bodied product.

"Demi-sec" is a French term meaning "half dry," used to describe wine that is up to 5% sugar. This Rich has a definite, yet not at all unpleasant, sweetness, offered in company with aromas and tastes of honeydew melon and Granny Smith apples. It is a decidedly pleasant bubbly with pinpoint carbonation that nicely complements the sugar.

Suggested retail price: $32 for the 750ml bottle.

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Monkey Shoulder Scotch

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When William Grant & Sons began producing Monkey Shoulder a few years ago, it quickly became the darling of the UK cocktail scene. I first ran across it during a bar crawl in Edinburgh, Scotland, at Olorosso, an upscale restaurant and cocktail lounge overlooking the city.

• Monkey Shoulder Triple Malt Scotch Whisky

Monkey Shoulder is a bold, smooth whiskey with spice notes and nuances of vanilla and toffee.

It is made from a blend of single malts from the company’s three Speyside distilleries — Glenfiddich, The Balvenie and Kininvie — by malt master David Stewart, who eschews grains in creating this spirit.

Stewart produces only very limited amounts of the whisky, but you may be able to work with your local spirits seller to order a bottle. It's a perfect blend to use in potent cocktails.

By the way, the origin of the whisky's name comes from a term for a physical injury that was common in the days when distilleries' workers stooped over for long periods of time while turning the malt, causing them to hunch their shoulders.

Suggested retail price: $37 for the 750ml bottle.

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Hugel & Fils Pinot Gris

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Several years ago on a tour of eastern France, I was delighted by the range of quality boutique wineries that dotted the landscape of the Alsace region. However, their output is so limited you'll rarely see them available here. Thus, some of the iconic major wineries of Alsace supply the best we can find on the import shelves in the U.S. This is one such.

• Hugel & Fils Alsace Pinot Gris 2005

The Hugel family has been producing wines since the 15th Century, so they obviously have gotten it right. This particular product is among their most versatile whites, at home with anything that should be paired with a velvety wine.

The golden color and bouquet of preserved fruits give promise of a lush wine, and the Pinot Gris is certainly that, without being overwhelming on the palate. It is structured but light, full-bodied but complementing rather than overpowering to poultry, seafood and summer salads.

The Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio in Italy) wines of the Alsace are bolder than those from other growing regions such as Australia, New Zealand and the U.S. West Coast, spicier and with more floral notes.

Pouring note: Pour this wine gently. Some bottles have a slight crystalline sediment. They don't affect the taste or quality of the wine.

Suggested retail price: $11.

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Quadrio Valtellina Superiore

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Italian reds don't have to be "chewy," "edgy" or any other word typically used to describe many of them. Sometimes a good red wine is just a good red wine, like this smooth, fragrant aged blend.

• Quadrio Valtellina Superiore 2004

The wine comes from the Nino Negri winery whose headquarters is the Castello Quadrio di Chiuro, which was owned by the governor of the Valtellina region in the 15th Century, thus the name "Quadrio."

This blend of chiavennasca (90%) and merlot (10%) grapes is aged 18 months in Slavonian oak, emerging with toasty wood notes and dried fruits. The garnet-colored wine has a floral, fruit bouquet and drops distinct notes of raspberries, currants and violets on the tongue.

It paired well in a dinner featuring roasted chicken stuffed with a hearty mixture of goat cheese, spinach, olive oil, smoked paprika and dried dill.

Suggested retail price: $25.

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Gran Gala Triple Orange

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This time of year always see an uptick in the sales of orange-flavored liqueurs such as Grand Marnier and Triple Sec, mostly for holiday cocktail mixtures. But there is a strong challenger available.

• Gran Gala Triple Orange Liqueur

Like most people who make cocktails, you're probably in the habit of using certain brand names and not even bothering to try any others. Grand Marnier, for example, has been around since 1880 and has long been the benchmark for orange-brandy liqueurs.

In recent months, I've tried Gran Gala, an Italian product from the House of Stock in Trieste, Italy, in a number of cocktails usually calling for Grand Marnier and I've noticed virtually no difference. That surprised me in that I've never made a secret of disliking Stock vermouths, preferring Martini & Rossi Rouge or Noilly Pratt dry because there are discernible differences in both expressions.

Sampled straight as an aperitif or dessert drink, Gran Gala has a bit more of an orange edge, Grand Marnier more sugary tasting, although both liqueurs are abundant with notes of vanilla, caramel, lemon and even butterscotch. The difference lies mostly in the price.

The suggested retail price for Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge 80 is $38, but for Grand Gala it's about $19 for the same size.

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Penn 1681 Vodka

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Pennsylvania, which can lay claim to some of the earliest whiskey stills in colonial and early America, has largely been out of the national public eye in recent years except for some decent wines that have begun to emerge. But the national vodka craze has provided the stage for a return to the spotlight for distillers.

• Penn 1861 Vodka

Philadelphia Distilling, a three-year-old company that has been making a name with its Bluecoat American Dry Gin, has branched out with this new rye-based vodka, named for the year in which King Charles II of England granted William Penn his charter for the settlement that is today's Pennsylvania.

But it's what is inside the bottle that its makers are hoping will make history. I found it alluring through the nosing stage, slightly spicy from the rye, then warm, smooth and creamy when tasted straight. None of those rough edges too often found in inexpensive vodkas, which this certainly is. And, with a splash of Noilly Pratt dry French vermouth, it makes an excellent martini, losing none of its velvety mouthfeel.

The rye is local and organically grown. It is distilled by master distiller Robert J. Cassell four times in a copper pot still made specifically for the company. It incorporates proprietary designs that help separate the alcohols more than is common.

I've been outspoken on the quality of Sobieski, a sub-$20 vodka that has been garnering excellent consumer acceptance in its short life. If Pennsylvania Distilling can get distrbution for its new vodka, it should quickly find a similar strong market niche.

Suggested retail price: $20.

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Bols Genever

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Holland's Lucas Bols, the world's oldest distilled spirits brand, has re-launced this classic genever in Holland and is targeting markets in the U.S. and UK. It is based on the recipe the company developed in 1820.

• Bols Genever

Rather than being a gin -- which itself is a cousin of genever that was developed in England, genever begins as a quality maltwine. The distillate of corn, rye and wheat, made in copper pot stills and distilled three times, has a smooth, malty taste rather than the botanical mixes that dominate gin and its neutral grain alcohol base.

The final product is more than 50% maltwine, redestilled botanicals according to a proprietary recipe, and an optimum alcohol content of 42% abv (84 proof).

The grain base is immediately apparent in the first smell and taste of the genever, suggesting something that lies on an indeterminate line between beer and vodka. Some slight grassy notes stay on the tongue after the first sip, with suggestions of fresh-baked bread and then juniper berries. It is reminiscent of, although far more nuanced and pleasant than, the taste of distillers' beer created early in the whiskey-making process.

Suggested retail price: $38.95.

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Jose Cuervo tequila trio

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I sampled this trio of distinctly individual tequilas during a private tasting session at Jose Cuervo's LaRojeña Distillery in Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico last week. The ultra premium Platino just marked its first year on the international market.

• Jose Cuervo Platino Tequila

This is a limited-edition spirit presented in numbered bottles. A blanco made from 100% estate-grown blue agave, it is handcrafted using the company's proprietary process called "Esencia de Agave," during which the steam is recaptured and, with it, the flavor essences of the plant. It then is chill filtered.

The result is a stunningly smooth, creamy tequila best enjoyed straight and at room temperature. None of that ice-diluted business that one sometimes needs with lower-end tequilas to mask any harshness.

The agave aroma mixes in the nose with slightly vegetal notes, inviting the imbiber in to experience elements of dried apricot and floral notes, followed by warm nuances of lemon zest, rose petals and a touch of pepper.

Suggested retail price: $59.99 for the 750ml bottle.

• Jose Cuervo Tradicional

This is a reposado (rested six months) that, like the Platino, gives off the cooked agave aroma that is a result of slow roasting rather than being flash cooked in an autoclave. Slightly vegetal on the nose with a faint hint of oak.

The taste of the 100% blue agave spirit is of dried fruits, hints of citrus and pepper, and then a clean, dry finish.

Suggested retail price: $31.99 for the 750ml bottle.

• Jose Cuervo Black

Unlike the other spirits in this tasting, JC Black is not 100% blue agave. It contains sugar cane, although the company will not say just how much. It's an añejo, aged one year in oak.

The rich, coppery color reminds one of American whiskies, as do the elements of vanilla and butterscotch that come from barrel aging, and even a certain candy apple sweetness to the finish. I'm told it is particularly popular with people who like such abominations as Jack & Coke. I find it of sufficient quality to enjoy simply as a sipping spirit.

Suggested retail price: $24.99 for the 750ml bottle.

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Simonassi Malbec

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Malbec was long a minor French blending grape. Some years ago some enterprising Argentinian vintners decided their high country vineyards would be ideal for the grape they thought could stand on its own. They were right, and its popularity has been steadily growing in this country as well as throughout South America.

• 2007 Simonassi Malbec "1922"

Bodega Simonassi is located in the province of Mendoza, Argentina, in the village of Rama Caída which has a particular microclimate conducive to Malbec grapes, poplars and fruit trees. The company has vineyards under the name of Viñedos SILVIA.

This bold, rich purplish red is visually inviting. I tried it at a wine bar along with a series of small plates of grilled chorizo and game sausages, New Zealand lamb chop “pops” marinated and grilled and served with Israeli couscous salad, a forest mushroom strudel and an ahi tuna sashimi served with crisp seaweed, pickled ginger, wasabi and soy sauce.

In the course of polishing off these treats, the Malbec kept opening and softening, releasing deep notes of black cherry, plum and warm spices, making it a perfect accompaniment to each item. Coincidentally, the next morning I checked out what food pairings the winemakers at Simonassi recommend for their Malbec: “steak, game, roasts, BBQ, lamb, tuna.” My 3-out-of-5 selections matched that quite well.

Suggested retail price: $19.

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Highland Park 40

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Highland Park puts out some Scotch whiskies that have great demand. Such as a shipment of 32 cartons of a 32-year-old expression that were stolen in transit between Scotland and Los Angeles earlier this year. Here, we're dealing with an even older expression that so far has been safe from thieves despite its high value.

• Highland Park 40 Year Old Single Malt

The Orkney Islands distillery was established in 1798, making it one of the most remote Scotch whisky distilleries in the world. Peat from its own moor and water from the same spring that has fed the distillery for more than two centuries helps assure consistency.

The clarity of the copper-colored liquid and the controlled smell of peat make this single malt's first approach a pleasing one. A touch of dried fruit and spice quickly makes its presence known. On the tongue, the twin notes of apricot/orange sweetness and vegetal/herbal peat that flavors but does not overwhelm the whisky create a very pleasing product, tinged with a slight dark chocolate note. The combination makes me think of Terry's Chocolate Orange candy.

The whisky is matured in refill casks rather than new oak to avoid over-flavoring of vanilla during the maturation process. It was bottled at 48.3% abv (96.6 proof). It comes packaged in a heavy, hinged box with a leather-bound booklet inside that explains the distillery and the whisky.

Suggested retail price: Runs the gamut from $1,300 to $1,900 for the 750ml bottle. Shop wisely.

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Cointreau Noir

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Cointreau is an iconic French liqueur that consistently rakes in top awards, such as a double gold in this year's San Francisco World Spirits Competition. But even a 160-year-old enterprise doesn't continue to prosper by standing still. Thus, this new offering.

• Cointreau Noir

Cointreau is a common ingredient in many cocktails, and it has been for generations. Its makers are marketing this new blend of the orange liqueur with Remy Martin Cognac as a less sweet version of the original meant to be sipped straight or over ice rather than become part of a mix.

On the nose, the familiar bright orange Cointreau fragrance comes spilling out of the copper-clad bottle. But the presence of Remy markedly changes the flavor, lightening it considerably and adding that signature warmth that only cognac can. At 40% abv (80 proof), the alcohol level remains the same as the pre-cognac expression.

Suggested retail price: $63.99 for the 750ml bottle.

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TRU2 Gin

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TRU Organic Spirits, a division of Modern Spirits Group, has unveiled TRU2 Gin, an addition to its portfolio of sustainable, organic spirits. You can get the lowdown on the Monrovia, CA, company's "green" philosophy and production here.

• TRU2 Gin

This new product doesn't look like the usual gin. It begins with an organic wheat base spirit into which 14 whole botanicals are macerated in layers. Because the gin is not re-distilled after maceration, the combination of the botanicals releases an amber hue to the gin.

The 84-proof spirit that results is a feast for the senses -- lemon, coriander, orris, allspice. On the palate, the parade marches on -- cinnamon, fennel, clove, star anise.

This is a gin that keeps on giving. For my taste, you'd be foolish to imbibe it any way but straight.

Suggested retail price: $34.99 for the 750ml bottle.

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(rī)1

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Don't let the name fool you. It's Beam Global Spirits' way of saying "rye one," and it has just been released to the market this month.

• (rī)¹

This is a punchy rye, packaged in a sleek modern bottle with an edgy title and typography meant to make it stand out in a slowly growing market niche -- American rye whiskies.

A lovely color -- a golden honey with a touch of amber -- attracts the eye, and the nose appeals as well with notes of dried apricots and pepper. Straight, the fruit and pepper remain, abetted by a pleasant heat. Cut with a drop of water and all elements open easily. More honey ventures out, and the finish is long, warm and pleasant.

All told, a fine product that sets the stage for two other expressions Beam promises are in the works for this new product line of Kentucky Straight Ryes.

Suggested retail price: $46-$48 for the 750ml bottle.

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Sonoma-Cutrer wines

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While recently in Sonoma County, CA, for the final days of the grape harvest, I visited the Sonoma-Cutrer vineyards and winery for a private tasting of several of their wines either now available or still in the pipeline. Because their grapes are grown over five Russian River Valley ranches covering markedly different soil, and numerous clones are used, the wines sharply differ from each other.

• 2007 Cutrer Chardonnay

This blend will be bottled in the spring and probably go on the market in the fall of 2009. It is pleasantly citrusy, with nuances of golden raisins, lemon peel and apricots. Nicely rounded structure with a medium-length finish and smooth on the palate throughout.

Suggested retail price should come in at about $35 a bottle.

• Les Pierres 2007

This is an excellent wine already, although don't look for it on the market for a year or more. Peach and apricot notes, very crisp structure and finish with lime and flinty nuances.

Suggested retail price should come in at about $41 a bottle.

• Les Pierres 2000

The volcanic soil of the Sonoma Mountain area bring notes of citrus -- particularly lime -- and green apple to both the nose and finish of this crisp chardonnay. A little more honey and butter on the long finish. Unfortunately, this is a library wine no longer available to the public.

• Sonoma Coast 2004 Pinot Noir

A 100% pinot noir (S-C has only been making red wine since 2002) made from grapes grown on the Vine Hill and Owsley ranches that come under the Sonoma-Cutrer umbrella. The sea air adds some salty tang to go with the essences of cinnamon and Double-Bubble chewing gum in this light, playful concoction. The current release is a 2005, but some 2004 still can be found if one is diligent enough in the search.

Suggested retail price: $40 a bottle.

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O2 Sparkling Vodka

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Early this year, a new British product -- sparkling vodka, the world's first -- went on sale in the U.S. market. Its makers, who patented their process, recently had bad things to say about a similar product scheduled to come on the market later this year as a venture from hip-hop mogul Dr. Dre. The concern is that because Dre's sparkler can't use the same method it might be inferior to the Brit drink and, therefore, ruin the market for all concerned. I put together a four-person tasting panel to evaluate the original.

• O2 Sparkling Vodka

International English Distillers Ltd. distills the product five times in century-old English copper pot stills and filters it through titanium micro-mesh, then infuses it with very tiny bubbles. The finished product is clear, as vodka should be, and loaded with pinpoint carbonation.

So much for the process. On to the final 94-proof product.

Of our four tasters, one literally recoiled at the first sip of chilled O2. "Bitter," she said. Two others immediately declared it "medicinal." The fourth was undecided, intrigued at first by its warmth, but not won over.

Additional sips revealed a slightly lemony tang, and a hint of spice we theorized comes from rye or similar grain used in the mash. But even after lingering discussion, none of the four of us could recommend the vodka.

In one last attempt to coax something pleasant out of it, I mixed it with an orange-mango nectar in hopes of getting something like a mimosa out of the carbonated vodka. It worked to a slight degree, but the medicinal bitterness still came through.

Suggested retail price: about $37 for the 750ml bottle.

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Tuaca Liquore Italiano

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The name may sound a bit Latin American, but this liqueur is an ancient Italian concoction its makers say was created in the 16th Century, during the Renaissance, for Lorenzo de' Medici, patron of Michelangelo and Boticelli. It first was exported to the United States in the 1950s.

• Tuaca Liquore Italiano

This liqueur is a pleasant experience from the first sniff, rich with fragrant notes of vanilla, caramel and orange.

The brandy-based sweet liquid has a slightly thick consistency that coats the palate with hints of apricot, golden raisin and clover honey, and a lengthy, warm finish that makes it an excellent after-dinner treat. I also tried it in a highball with Jetset Energy Ginger Ale, a concoction I found rather refreshing.

Suggested retail price: $21 for the 750ml bottle.

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Arboleda Carmenère

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This rich, lush wine comes from Arboleda, a Chilean boutique winery located in the Colchagua Valley 125 miles south of Santiago, the national capital. It is 100% carmenère, the country's major grape.

• Arboleda Carmenère 2006

This mid-May '06 vintage was an excellent one and this particular wine is a prime example of it.

It is a big, deep-violet wine, 14.5% alcohol by volume, that begins with a pleasing assault on the nose of tobacco, cinnamon and black tea.

That complexity continues on the palate with notes of cocoa and stone fruits -- plum, black cherry and the like -- and berries plus just a touch of sweetness. Touches of cedar and vanilla imparted by the cask aging also can be discerned, and the long finish develops into a drier level of the tobacco and unsweetened chocolate.

I matched it with a pork tenderloin roasted in a honey-mustard sauce, sided with brown rice, steamed cauliflower, and a cold, bitey side dish of diced tomatoes, cucumbers and jalapeños marinated overnight in herbs and rice wine vinegar. The wine both stood up to and complemented each dish.

Suggested retail price: $16 for the 750ml bottle.

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Broquel Torrontes 2007

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This spicy white wine is made from torrontes grapes, a native Argentinian varietal grown at high altitudes, by winemaker Daniel Pi. The Broquel name is a product of the Trapiche winemaking company, the most-exported of all Argentinian wines.

• Broquel Torrontes 2007

This is a spicy number from the first sniff to the first hit on the palate. Peppery and floral with a pronounced acidity.

This mix quickly gives way to hints of apple and honey, even touches of cinnamon and thyme. All of these notes and its soft, lush finish make it an ideal seafood accompaniment.

The blend is 95% torrontes and 5% chardonnay, using grapes grown in the Cafayate Valley vineyards.

Suggested retail price: $17 for the 750ml bottle.

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Old Forester Repeal Bourbon

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This is a historic creation, marking the 75th anniversary of the repeal of Prohibition with a new version of the first whiskey brand ever to be bottled (1870). I had a preview tasting of it although it won't go on sale until November.

• Old Forester Repeal Bourbon

There is a special relationship between Old Forester and Prohibition. It was produced legally during that period under one of only 10 government permits to produce bourbon for "medicinal purposes." Thus, it is the only bourbon brand still in existence that has been sold continuously for more than a century.

This one-time, limited-release expression from master distiller Chris Morris has outside trappings of a historic whiskey -- a 375ml bottle in the 1933 flask style; an old-fashioned label mostly handwritten -- and is packaged in a special gift kit that includes an embossed tasting glass, an Old Forester company pen, and a reproduction scroll of the passage of the 22nd Amendment that repealed Prohibition.

The whiskey is a classic bourbon with its vanilla, caramel and brown sugar notes and orange-amber coloring, but it is much more complex than that. A definite note of chocolate and berries gives it a chocolate-covered cherry characteristic. Orange notes that are suggested by the coloring begin to come through as the whiskey opens up, and the well-oaked liquid carries hints of spice and mint.

This is, overall, a warm, crisp, satisfying bourbon. It's a shame it's a one-time-only offering.

Suggested retail price: $24.99 for the package.

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Glenmorangie Signet

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There are many interesting characters in the Scotch whisky industry, but Dr. Bill Lumsden's infectious enthusiasms for experimentation with woods and blends sets him apart. I was privileged to get an advance sampling of his newest creation which will be introduced to the market in October.

• Glenmorangie Signet

I usually like to build my case for making a "good" or "bad" judgement step by step. I'll dispense with it here to immediately declare that anyone who does not find Signet a brilliant product should have her/his taste buds removed. They're obviously out of order.

Lumsden, head of distilling and whisky creation for Glenmorangie, has been tinkering with this expression for about a decade, according to his associates. He has married barley grown on the Glemorangie land with a chocolate malt as well as maturing various whiskies used in the blending in a variety of woods. Precise ingredients are being kept vague for competitive reasons.

The deeper flavors of tobacco, leather and chocolate are key factors in the richness of taste. But Signet doesn't stop there. I detected fleeting notes of sherry and orange zest in the nose, followed on the palate by pineapple, green apple ... even a bit of honey and maple.

This is a very complex creation. Lumsden uses the word "voluptuous." I concur.

Suggested retail price: $185 for the 750ml bottle.

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Chateau Porteny Graves 2004

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The Bordeaux region of France has one of those magical names that conjures up a wide range of rich red wines and mellow whites. Delving deeper than the most well-known names can broaden your palate with wines from some of the lesser-known chateaux, not terribly difficult since the region boasts more than 6,000 of them. Here's just one example.

• Chateau Porteny Graves 2004

This white Bordeaux gets its name from the Graves soil, a mixture of clay, sand and gravels, located just outside the town of Bordeaux. Two-thirds of wines from Graves chateaux are whites. (This is an appellation Graves controlée; the appellation Graves supérieurs is reserved for sweet white.)

Porteny's offering is a blend of sémillon, sauvignon and muscadelle grapes. The initial nose is vaguely floral but also gives off a hint of those intensely-fruity Mexican limes.

It is somewhat dry and slightly tart wine, with immediate grapefruit and lemon notes. I paired it with a vinaigrette-dressed salad of maché and baby spinach, campari tomatoes and crumbled gorgonzola. It also held up nicely to marinated, grilled chicken with fried eggplant and rice.

Suggested retail price: $9 for the 750ml bottle.

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Zette Malbec

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Malbec wines have largely become the property of Argentina in recent years. That's because its vintners made the once lowly French blending grape stand on its own as an excellent example of a robust, fruity red. Here, however, is a French malbec from an unconventional winemaker trying to reclaim some of the excellent grape's cachet for its native land.

• Zette Malbec 2003

This is the latest red wine from former Cartier executive Alain Perrin's Domain Lagrezette which is staking its future on the centuries-old "black grape of Cahors" that still remains a minor blending grape in Bordeaux.

While it is noticeably thinner than the better Argentinian malbecs, Zette's version has the same ruby color and fruit forward nose chock full of blueberries and stone fruits.

Touches of cinnamon and thyme are evident in the middle notes as well, products of 12-month aging in small French oak casks. It held up well to a bowl of angel hair pasta doused with a fresh sauce of campari tomatoes, capers, yellow bell peppers, shallots, fresh basil and spices.

Suggested retail price: $13 for the 750ml bottle.

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Matusalem Gran Reserva Rum

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The words "Cuba" or "Cuban" appear no less than 15 times on the box holding a bottle of this Cuban-style rum, but don't be fooled. It's made in the Dominican Republic.

• Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva Rum

This is, simply put, a superb rum. It is a blend of young and old spirits, using a 15-year-old as its main blender along with other oak-aged spirits. Its makers refer to it as the "solera" process similar to the tried-and-true method of creating Spanish sherries.

Until the Castro revolution, Matusalem was regarded as the iconic Cuban rum. The Alvarez family fled the country and reestablished their business in the Dominican Republic. It's an old line that began in 1872-- fitting for something named after the biblical Methusaleh.

From its clear amber color to its clearly classic finish, this is a spirit best consumed straight. No need to whip up a fruity frou-frou cocktail and spoil the pleasures of a creamy rum that readily doles out notes of butterscotch, caramel and brown sugar. The gentle bite of the secondary tastes brings with it a touch of smokiness imparted by the aging casks, resulting in a sensation akin to that from a fine Scotch or bourbon.

Suggested retail price: $32 for the 750ml bottle.

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Maestro Dobel Diamond Tequila

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Juan-Domingo "Dobel" Beckmann, sixth-generation tequila maker now heading most parts of the Jose Cuervo empire, not only has introduced a new vodka to the market, he's apparently hoping it also ushers in a new category -- diamond vodka -- to go with the traditional styles. It is being released this month in selected American markets, and I had the opportunity for an advance tasting.

• Maestro Dobel Diamond Tequila

This is a pleasing blend of differently aged tequilas -- blanco/silver, reposado and añejo/aged. Beckmann and his tequila "maestros," Marco Anguiano and Luis Yerenas, are calling their product "the world's first-ever diamond tequila."

But what, precisely, is a "diamond" tequila?

The company's PR people say you should judge it as you do a diamond, by the four C's. In diamonds that is color, cut, clarity and carat weight. In vodka, they say, the four C's are clarity, complexity, craftsmanship and crispness. So, that's the way I looked at Maestro Dobel.

Clarity? It is, like virtually any vodka, crystal-clear.

Complexity? Good, since it is a clever blend of three types of tequila.

Craftsmanship? Good, no doubt about it, and its packaging is superb -- an attractive metal-based bottle, heavy decanter-style stopper, raised glass agave plant design, raised-lettering silver and black label. That would seem to be overdoing it if it were a less expensive tequila that would be polished off rather quickly. But at its super-premium price point, this is more of a special occasion drink so the snazzy container will be appreciated longer.

Crispness? It comes through in a lightness of body, slight bite of citrus and floral notes. Either at room temperature or opened with a cube of ice in a sampling glass, Maestro Dobel is a pleasing product that has a warm, lengthy finish with ethereal hints of thyme, allspice and honey.

Suggested retail price: $75 for the 750ml bottle.

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El Coto Rioja

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Say "Spanish wine" and most people think "red." However, this rioja white is made entirely of viura grapes by the company that released its first wine in 1975 and since then has grown to become Spain's No. 1 wine brand.

• El Coto Rioja 2007

All El Coto grapes are vinified in stainless steel tanks then aged in American oak casks. This bone-dry white is good at a cool room temperature or chilled. Either way, its crisp, citrus and apple notes come through, although chilling encourages a longer finish.

The color is a pleasing pale gold with hints of green that serve as a preview of the highly aromatic nose that mingles a strong presence of tart grapes with floral notes and a touch of green apple and thyme. It paired beautifully with the sweetness of such dishes as smoked pork chops and cold shrimp as well as with the tartness of a tomatillo bruschetta.

Suggested retail price: $12 for the 750ml bottle.

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10 Cane Rum

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This Trinidadian rum comes from LVMH -- Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey, maker of Dom Perignon champagne and other fine products, so there's a hint right off the bat that it's a very good bet to be a quality product. 10 Cane was introduced to the market just three years ago.

• 10 Cane Rum

Many rums are made from molasses. Lighter, purer and better rums are made from the first or at least an early press of the sugar cane before it is made into molasses. The brand name comes from the harvesting method -- 10 canes taken in a bunch.

10 Cane is made from sugar extracted on the day of harvest then distilled in small batches in French pot stills and matured in French oak barrels. The final product is a pale gold, light bodied but full flavored product. It carries a slight sweetness, a vanilla note, a pure warmth, and provides a certain viscous mouthfeel that is a hallmark of the finer rums.

Suggested retail price: $30 for the 750ml bottle.

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Bove Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

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John Bove, longtime chef/owner of the quaint My Way Cafe near Saratoga Springs, NY, did a little digging when he came across an Italian wine bearing his surname on the label. He gladly shared a bottle with me to see what I thought of what he has come to call "my wine" even though he has no stake in the company.

• 2003 Bove Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Roggio Antico

This is a delightfully fruity red wine with a big nose, quick burst of cherry and berries, and a quickly fading finish.That makes it great for a dinner wine when you're not particularly lingering over the beverage accompanying your pizza, pasta or complicated salad but do want something that makes itself known.

Even a few faint chocolate and tobacco notes are evident in the rush of flavors.

Most wines from the Montepulciano area of Abruzzi are a safe bet since the region has a centuries-old history of quality winemaking. Number this label among them

Retails for a very reasonable $8-$10 for the 750ml bottle.

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ZYR vodka

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Vodka is, by some accounts, a Russian invention. Others contend it is Polish in origin. At least we know it came from that general part of Europe, and despite all the artisinal vodkas popping up around the globe, Russian vodkas still have a certain cachet.

• ZYR Russian Vodka

This product born of Russian wheat and rye grains is made in a method that adds up to 17.

Explanation? Nine filtrations, five distillations and a three-stage taste test to assure quality.

The final result is a creamy, smooth 80-proof premium vodka I have to put up in that rarified atmosphere with the likes of Chopin, from Poland, and lesser-known but superior brands such as Cirrus, from Virginia, and Grand Traverse, from Michigan.

Despite the textbook definition of non-infused vodkas as colorless, odorless and tasteless, ZYR has a vaguely nutty note along with the barest hint of vanilla in the finish. It has such a pleasing lack of burn and such a long finish that I recommend it be tasted neat, chilled or over ice.

The bottle design should stand out on the home or commercial bar -- a tall, sleek, pale blue glass container embossed with the looping, upswept design of the distiller's logo.

Suggested retail price: $32 for the 750ml bottle.

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Prairie Organic Vodka

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This new product is from Ed Phillips and Sons, the same Minnesota distiller that produces Phillips and UV brand vodkas as well as a large portfolio of whiskies, schnapps and cordials.

• Prairie Organic Vodka

Vodka is, by definition, a colorless, odorless and tasteless neutral grain spirit. This new vodka is, by definition, colorless, but it has a faintly fruity nose and is anything but tasteless.

Mixed in with the hearty warmth of the initial burst on the tongue are hints of melon, pear and apple. There is a definite creaminess to the texture throughout the tasting process which, coupled with the flavor notes, gives one the impression of drinking a cocktail rather than straight vodka.

Prairie is certified organic by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and is distilled four to five times from No. 2 yellow corn.

Retails for about $24 for the 750ml bottle.

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Michel Jodoin Calijo

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This cidermaker and microdistillery-- the Cidrerie Michel Jodoin -- was established in Rougemont, Quebec, in 1988.

• Michel Jodoin Calijo Brandy de Pommes

The steadily increasing popularity of ciders and other alcoholic apple products, particularly Canadian products, is easy to understand when you sample products such as this.

There is a gentle, almost cognac-like quality to this golden 80-proof nectar born in the Jodoin microdistillery. It is matured in oak casks for "a few years" -- how's that for keeping a secret? -- that helps pull out the characteristics of vanilla, caramel and honey that oak imparts.

Its apple origins aren't immediately obvious in the nose, but it gradually opens up and invites the imbiber to enjoy this brandy as an aperitif or, frankly, for just about any occasion.

The suggested retail price is about $33.

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Domaine du Closel Savenniéres La Jalousie 2005

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Jeffrey Gimmel and Nina Bachinsky–Gimmel, owners of Swoon Kitchebar in the antique-centric town of Hudson, NY, a favorite week-ending spot for New York City dwellers, came across this wine during a trip to the Savenniéres appelation of France. They served it with a grilled poulet lunch.

• Domaine du Closel Savenniéres La Jalousie 2005

Michèle de Jessey's great-great-grandfather, an aide to Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, founded this winery. She inherited the estate in 1961. She became the first woman in France to be president of an Appellation Contrôlée.

The Savennières la Jalousie (formerly les Coulées, or Cuvée Classique, i.e. dry) is a classic dry Savennières chenin blanc from a stainless-steel cuvée of young and older vines. It has the signature oiliness of the expression, and provides herbal notes and touches of ripe fruit: thyme, lemon, grapefruit.

The wine continues to open after pouring, releasing hints of lime, tarragon, honey and and straw, leading to a lengthy finish that heightens the enjoyment.

The suggested retail price is in the $22 range.

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Chateau du Rouét 2007

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This traditional rosé comes from a winery whose chateau was owned by the Marquis de Villeneuve, supplier of wines to the court of Louis XVI. I tried it during a lunch at the home of Jeffrey Gimmel and Nina Bachinsky–Gimmel, owners of the trendy Swoon Kitchenbar in Hudson, NY.

• Chateau du Rouét 2007 Chateau du Rouet Cuvee Reservee

This is a blend of grenache, mourvèdre and cinsault grapes, made by the first crush after cool skin maceration. That makes it a good accompaniment to any strongly-herbed dishes, such as the thyme-coated rotisserie poulet that was central to our meal.

Unlike the watery rosès that flooded the domestic market in the '90s and thereby ruined the category for a lot of first-timers, this is a full-bodied wine that goes well with anything from the lightness of a spring salad of lovage, chive blossoms, goat cheese and English peas to a layered potato-bacon pie.

The delicate pink color hints of the tastes to come -- lightly fruity cassis and raspberry. Not much length, but a serviceable wine for meals.

The suggested retail price runs in the $16 range.

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G'Vine Gin de France

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Jean Sébastien Robicquet and Bruno de Reilhac, who are the the proprietors, lead oenologists and master distillers of G'Vine gin, wanted to make something that bridges the gap between gin and flavored vodkas. They hit on a gin recipe utilizing the rare green grape flower that blossoms only briefly in mid-June in the Cognac region of France before maturing into grape berries. The recipe also includes ginger root, licorice, green cardamom, cassia bark, coriander, juniper berries, cubeb berries, nutmeg and lime.

• G'Vine Gin de France

In the course of a year, I sample literally hundreds of wines and spirits. Most of the time I find the samples OK. Rarely is one really bad. Just as rarely I find one that is superb. This is one of the latter.

G'Vine is first an eye-catcher. The rather squat-shaped bottle has a green cap, neck label and a coating on the top portion of the bottle that casts a green glow over the gin that says "grapes." The taste says even more.

One of the key ingredients in this handcrafted, limited edition 80-proof gin -- made in a copper still -- is the rare and subtle green grape flower. Not that the plant is exclusively French -- a lot of them are grown in Oregon, for example -- but I'm not aware of any other distiller using them in a gin recipe.

Nosing the gin is like wandering through a fragrant herb garden. Notes of thyme, dill, coriander and rose petals quickly conjure up expectations. G’Vine comes through in the first taste, all those aromas blended with elements of spice, grass and additional florals. The taste is long, smooth and lingers pleasantly.

In a modest martini -- shaken over fresh ice with a touch of Noilly Pratt dry vermouth, then garnished with a tomolive -- G'Vine stands up to the water and the vermouth in all aspects of fragrance and taste.

(Note: For those unfamiliar with the tomolive, it is not an olive except in appearance. It actually is a tiny pickled tomato that explodes with spice and brine when bitten into, and a complete treat when the martini is sipped over it before swallowing.)

Drinks International shares my enthusiasm for G’Vine. It recently named it "Best Distilled Gin" among 40 of the world's top selling brands.

G’Vine's suggested retail price is in the $36 range.

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Depaz Rhum

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Depaz is a singular rhum (the French spelling of "rum") made on the island of Martinique in the French West Indies from the first press of select blue cane since 1651. It's a limited issue rhum made only when the cane is harvested each spring.

• Depaz Blue Cane Rhum Agricole

Rum, or rhum, comes in many guises -- made from cane (agricole) or from molasses (industriel or traditionnel); dark or light; pure or with additives; aged or new-make. But it is only the higher-end styles that offer the true range of nuances that are possible.

Depaz is an exquisite, light amber 90-proof expression. Its opening aroma offers up grassy and floral notes, followed by the warmth of a traditional high-end rum, this one smacking of banana, honey and vegetal notes.

I mixed a cocktail with the rhum, a bit of Depaz label cane syrup -- distilled water is the only "additive" to the syrup -- fresh lime juice and a lot of cracked ice in the shaker. Excellent stuff, just enough of the extras to release all the potential of the rhum itself.

The suggested retail price is in the $35 range.

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Golden Kaan Shiraz 2004

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This shiraz comes from the Western Cape of South Africa, a good spot for the grape that makes up a large part of the country's national wine grape crop. After malolactic fermentation, the wine was matured in American oak barrels.

• Golden Kaan Shiraz 2004

This five-year-old label is beginning to create an international buzz, most recently being voted onto the list of top five international red wine brands in Germany.

I tried it with the sort of food the winemaker suggests -- bold red meats and creamy cheeses, in this instance an herb-crusted sirloin steak grilled over charcoal and accompanied by a garden salad dressed with creamy bleu cheese and extra chunks of the bold, ripe cheese.

He was right. From the fruity, bold nose through to the ripe tannins that soften the edges of the shiraz and make it a very drinkable wine, this is a bargain red I'd be glad to have again.

Marian Kopp, president of Golden Kaan Ltd., says, "We have a very clear goal for Golden Kaan in the USA. We want to become the leading South African wine brand. And the prospects for achieving that goal are good.”

I can't argue with that. At a suggested retail price of about $10, this particular example of Golden Kaan's craft is just right.

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Masi Campolongo di Torbe Amarone Classico 2001

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This year marks the 50th anniversary of Masi Campolongo di Torbe, the first-ever single vineyard Amarone created. Masi pioneered the concept in the Venetian region in the early 1950s

• Masi Campolongo di Torbe Amarone Classico 2001

This is an utterly brilliant Amarone, only 15,200 bottles of which were created. It is a big, fruity, dry Italian red -- 16% abv -- with a bold nose that immediately excites the palate.

It is made from grapes harvested before their peak, then dried to concentrate the sugar -- a process called appassimento.

The wine's plummy richness exhibits somewhat nutty overtones that give the drinker the option of savoring it with roasted meats or bold sauces, or enjoying it on its own when more of the nuances can be explored -- plummy notes, along with hints of leather and tobacco.

Retails for about $145.

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Glenora Peach Spumante

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Glenora Wine Cellars, the oldest operation on Seneca Lake (founded 1977), is one of the stronger wineries in New York's Finger Lakes. It has its own restaurant and inn, and public tours and tastings are available.

• Glenora Peach Spumante

"Spumante" is bubbly light. "Peach" spumante is light lite. But, in this case, that's a good thing, especially as we enter a time of year in which flavored, light bubblies are more in evidence.

This particular expression of the genre is a fine one. It's bottle fermented, with tiny, sharp bubbles providing the cleansing effect you want from such a wine, and the peach flavoring has a tangy edge that reminds me of actual peaches. The semi-sweet finish makes this a good companion to a cheese-and-fruit platter or similar finish to a multi-course meal.

At just $12.99 a bottle, it's worth laying in a supply for your personal cellar.

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Sancerre 2006

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As with the previous posting, I tried this wine during a private dinner at Easter Elchies House on The Macallan Estate near Aberlour, Scotland. It is a good example of one of the better Loire Valley whites, although the Sancerre region of France also produces respectable reds and rosés that are eminently drinkable.

• Sancerre 2006

This white Sancerre comes from the sauvignon blanc grape (the reds and rosés are made from pinot noir). It's semi-dry and slightly astringent, a fresh, fruity white with vegetal notes that went well with our consomme and smoked salmon starters.

I found it a well rounded wine, with notes of citrus, melon and pistachio and a pleasantly long finish. It's at its peak right now, since such wines shouldn't be cellared more than a few years.

Retails from about $22.

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Château Tour De Biot 2004

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This wine from a little-known house in Bordeaux has been created by fourth-generation owner Gilles Gremen in La Roquille since 1987. Before he took over, the wines went to a local co-operative rather than being bottled under its own name. I sampled this wine during a private dinner at Easter Elchies House on The Macallan Estate near Aberlour, Scotland.

• Château Tour De Biot 2004

This Bordeaux is a blend of 60% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, and 10% cabernet franc.

The flavor is round, rich and bold with stone fruit flavors -- plum, cherry. Soft tannins and a lingering finish with a hint of cinnamon.

It is one of the region's better bargain wines, retailing for about $11.

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Campo Viejo Crianza 2005

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This bargain wine comes from Spain's La Rioja region. The Juan Alcorta Winery is located on a hill overlooking the Ebro Valley. It has underground aging space for 70,000 oak barrels and 6 million bottles.

•  Campo Viejo Crianza 2005

This blend of tempranillo, harnacha and mazuelo grapes is aged 24 months, half of that time in oak barrels. Its a classis rioja, ruby red in color and silky oak notes throughout.

The result is some cherry and restrained spice in the nose, then black cherry and plum notes dominate. Some blackberry and hints of floral are evident.

Retails for $8 - $10.

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Chateau Lafayette Reneau

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Bob Reno has been making wine under this label in New York's Finger Lakes for nearly a quarter-century. For most of that time, he's been regarded as one of the best.

• Chateau Lafayette Reneau Cuvee Rouge

This non-vintage blend is made from vinifera and French-American hybrid grapes, which is Reno's strong suit.

It holds its own against a platter of varied cheeses -- for example, smoked gouda, English cheddar dotted with shallots and garlic, and creamy Danish havarti -- but would do just as well with subtler tastes or grilled meats. It's very fruit forward, with lots of berry and cherry notes.

From its beautiful light ruby coloring to its lingering, slightly acidic finish, this is a bargain delight that retails for under $10.

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Baojing 168 Vodka

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In something so idealistic, at least in theory, as the "People's Republic," it might seem frivolous to filter a vodka through diamonds. But modern China is trying to compete on the world market in every way, and delicious excess might as well be one of them.

• Baojing 168 Vodka:

This grain-based import differs from others of its ultra-premium ilk in that, say its distillers, it is created in a small-batch fashion and undergoes "unique filtration through 168 carats of diamonds."

I'm not sure if that is a whole bunch of little diamonds, or even diamond dust, or one gigantic fat rock. I do know the number 168 is regarded in Chinese custom as "being on the road to infinite prosperity."

That aside, how does it taste? Excellent. Clean, crisp, ever so slightly aromatic of vegetal notes. There's a hint of lemon about the middle notes, and a clean, slow finish.

Retails for about $38 for the 750ml bottle.

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Glenmorangie Astar

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This is the newest ultra-premium whisky in the Glenmorangie portfolio. I had the opportunity to sample it during a "kaleidoscope tasting" session in Louisville, KY, with Dr. Bill Lumsden, head of distilling and whisky creation for the Scottish company.

• Glenmorangie Astar

"Astar" is Gaelic for "journey," an apt title for this new expression since it takes the senses on quite a ride.

There is a surprising burst of white chocolate in the initial nose, along with some pineapple and menthol. With water, more spices plus hints of balsamic and coconut flavors play around the edges with touches of toast.

Then, a chardonnay-type grapefruit note emerges, along with the house characteristic -- a menthol/eucalyptic top note.

Although this whisky is very spicy, there is no unpleasant bite. Nuttiness, vanilla, creme brulee all come to mind.

I find this the closest thing to bourbon in the Glenmorangie portfolio.

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McGregor Vineyards Black Russian Red

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No, this isn't a variation on the Black Russian cocktail. It's a superb red blend from New York's Finger Lakes region.

• McGregor Vineyards Black Russian Red

We're about due for the latest vintage of McGregor’s acclaimed Black Russian Red, but it will be difficult to top the 2004 edition, much sought-after and sold-out (only 150 cases were made). The 2005 vintage also is quite good.

The iconic wine is the only such blend made in America, an unusual joining of two European grape varietals: Sereksiya Charni, traditionally grown in Romania but grown exclusively in the U.S. by McGregor, and Saperavi, an ancient wine grape originating in the republic of Georgia.

The hand-harvested grapes are fermented and aged for nearly two years in American oak barrels, resulting in a complex dry red, with notes of numerous berries, black cherry and the oak, tannic and dry.

The 2005 vintage retails for about $60.

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King's Crest 25 Year Old

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This blend comes from The Speyside, one of Scotland's smallest distilleries but plenty big on attitude when it comes to comparing itself to the market niche leaders. I tried this selection at recent Whisky Live event in Manhattan.

• King’s Crest 25 Year Old Blended Scotch:

I found this lovely blend, priced like Johnnie Walker Blue Label (see previous entry) upwards of $200 a bottle, a worthy competitor.

In fact, it might even be considered slightly superior in the peaty, hazlenut flavors that removed all traces of any unpleasant heat.

While its purveyors like to trumpet the result of the master blender's work, the company will say only that "We believe our King's Crest has become a legend in it's own right. But what makes a legend? For our master blender it is the combination of several elements, however he is very reticent to disclose them."

It can be disclosed that the maltiness, the vanillas and caramels, the hint of pineapple and citrus notes indicate a very complex and satisfying whisky.

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Johnnie Walker Blue Label

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The products from the Johnnie Walker distillery in Kilmarnock, Ayrshire, Scotland, are the most widely distributed brands of Scotch whisky in the world, with yearly sales of over 120 million bottles. I most recently re-tried its top-shelf Blue Label at Whisky Live in Manhattan.

• Johnnie Walker Blue Label Scotch:

Blue Label truly has an old style set of characteristics, and since it is a non-vintage blend of 16 or so whiskies it is difficult to pinpoint the heart of it even though it is widely known to be Royal Lochnagar, a rare malt. Every bottle is numbered and placed in a silk-lined box with a certificate of authenticity.

It is at once nutty, pungent and peppery, with floral notes in the nose and initial hit on the palate as well. The traditional smokiness, accompanied by clear notes of caramel and vanilla, help make it a complex offering that is obviously superior in overall character to most others in its price range.

Retails for about $200.

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Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2003

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Cotes du Rhone wines are big, bold and meaty, perfect for a flatiron prime beef luncheon I had with Dale Miller, one of those rare Certified Master Chefs, and newly-appointed executive chef and general manager of the stately Inn at Erlowest on picturesque Lake George, NY.

• Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2003

This is a French red as big as its formal name: 2003 Château de Beaucastel Côtes du Rhône Coudoulet de Beaucastel. It's a blend of mourvédre, grenache, cinsault and syrah grapes, unfiltered and bursting at the seams with flavor.

I particularly like the fact that the bouquet keeps opening once poured, enhancing the notes of leather, pepper and ripe fruit. It complemented not only the sliced flatiron prime, but the vegetable terrine, grilled asparagus and roasted fingerling potatoes it accompanied at the luncheon. A splash of the wine added to the steak juice reduction tied it all together.

Retails for about $34.

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Yamazaki Single Malts

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Forget the traditional stance, that Scotch whisky can be made only in Scotland. Japan's Suntory distillers are making deeper and deeper inroads into the booming Asian Scotch market and trying to get U.S. consumers to pay attention as well.

• Yamazaki 12- and 18-year-old Single Malts:

Sampling whiskies on their own is one thing. Sampling them in a venue crowded with competitors is another. I gained a stronger appreciation for Suntory's offerings when trying them at the recent Whisky Fest 2008 in Manhattan where they were offered cheek-to-jowel with several dozen others labels.

The Yamazaki 18 earned the platinum medal (97 points) in 2006 from the Beverage Testing Institute as a follow-up to its double gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition the previous year. It's a complex, smooth and creamy single malt that smacks of floral notes balanced off by hints of fig, dark chocolate and burnt sugar. I found it something I wanted to immediately go off with to savor.

The 12 year old expression, a 93-point Beverage Testing Institute gold medalist, has an almost ethereal presence, touched by notes of honey, flowers, a bit of peat and anise, and then complementing elements of spiciness and toastiness from the mizunara -- Japanese oak.

The 18 retails in the $90 range and the 12 for about $40.

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Bulleit Bourbon

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The flask-style bottle is eye-catching, the flavor of the amber liquid inside palate-catching, and it's all based on a 175-year-old family history and recipe, according to Hollis Bulleit, daughter of company head Tom Bulleit and the current-generation family rep I recently spoke with at Whisky Fest 2008 in Manhattan.

• Bulleit Bourbon

The recipe for this small-batch premium bourbon calls for 28% rye, slightly higher than many competitors', which adds to the dryness and spiciness in both nose and taste, as do the proprietary yeasts and grains. (The company has its own "grain division.")

The final 90 proof expression is the result of at least six years' aging and the usual maturation in charred white oak barrels, but mingles several different distillates. It is pleasantly smoky, with distinct underlying notes of honey and vanilla and a long, clean finish.

Retails in the $25-$35 range.

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Fourplay No. 1

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Confession time: I had not tried Fourplay wine before experiencing this estate-bottled example of Sicilian blending. I'm sorry I was so late getting to the party.

• Fourplay No. 1 2003

The name itself is cause for conversation, but once the usual comments are exhausted the wine itself is grist for discussion.

The beautifully balanced blend of equal parts Nero d'Avola, Frappato Nero, Nerello Cappuccio and Nerello Mascalese native grapes from the southern tip of Sicily is something that doesn't come along every day.

Rich with stone fruit flavors -- plum and black cherry equally bold on the tongue -- this particular vintage at 13% ABV will work equally well with sharp cheeses, acidic tomato sauces or bold roasted meats. Or, feel free to simply pour a glass, admire the ruby color and sip to your heart's content.

Retails in the $15 range (slightly less for 2004, 2005 vintages).

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Ardmore Traditional Cask

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This Highland malt whisky was introduced in the U.K. and duty free shops just last year, and this month went on sale in limited quantities in the U.S. It comes from the same company that has made Teacher's blended Scotch whisky for more than a century.

• Ardmore Traditional Cask

This beautiful deep golden whisky has a full nose, but is not overwhelming. If anything, it doesn't completely telegraph the rich, peaty flavor that initially hits the tongue. A bit of vanilla and caramel comes through, a legacy of the whisky's initial maturation in used American white oak bourbon barrels.

A splash of water tames the smokiness and further opens the flavor palette to reveal some spice notes from the second maturation in quarter casks (110 liter), a little more caramel and a very gentle mix of vanilla and peat. On the nose, the dry, earthiness of the smoke comes through to marry all the flavors.

I highly recommend this fine visitor from Aberdeenshire.

Retails in the $45-$50 range.

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Jacob's Creek Shiraz Cabernet

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In 1847, Orlando wines founder Johann Gramp planted one of the first vineyards along Jacob's Creek in the Barossa Valley of South Eastern Australia. The name of the creek has become synonymous with quality wines.

• Jacob's Creek Shiraz Cabernet 2004

This is a fine blend -- 53% shiraz and 47% cabernet sauvignon -- that provides notes of tobacco, leather and oak along with forthright plum and berry nuances.

I like the medium-bodied structure that makes this a good choice to accompany a bold cheese platter (smoked gouda, sharp cheddar and tangy gorgonzola on the one I put together to go with this wine), chicken or pasta dishes, and even some red meat dishes that aren't too heavily sauced.

Retails in the $7-$9 bargain range.

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Bin 444 Cabernet Sauvignon

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Wyndham Estate is one of the better establishments in the rich South Eastern Australia wine producing region. Bin 444 is one of a number of well-respected labels from this 180-year-old winery.

• Bin 444 Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

This is a fruit-forward wine, rich in berry and stone fruit notes from initial nose to smooth, lingering finish.

It is a classic cab in that its taste lives up to the promise of its deep, rich color. A well-balanced touch of tartness keeps the fruit fresh and makes this an excellent selection to pair with rich meats and heavy pasta dishes. I'm glad I cellared it for seven years because it now is at its peak drinkability.

Retails for about $10.

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2005 Hugel Cuvée Les Amours Pinot Blanc

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Alsatian-style wines are growing in popularity worldwide. However, the originals usually are just as good when it comes to value-for-price. This import by Frederick Wildman & Sons Ltd. of New York is one such instance.

• 2005 Hugel Cuvée Les Amours Pinot Blanc

One of many things that stood out when I toured the Alsace region of France several years ago was the longevity of family-owned wineries. This is a prime example. Twelve generations of the Hugel family -- in an unbroken line since 1639 -- have been turning out quality wines.

This is a creamy, dry white with a touch of acid balanced by notes of honey, pear, apple and spices along with the typical mineral quality. It is perfect with Asian, pasta or light seafood dishes.

Retails for about $16.

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Tres Rios Tequila Reposado

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This brand is being fronted by Motley Crue rocker Vince Neil. Since I don't know Mr. Neil personally, why the company thinks that sort of advertising would induce me or anyone to buy a particular brand escapes me. However, I ignored that and evaluated the aged version on its own merits.

• Tres Rios Tequila Reposado

Last March, this 80-proof tequila scored a bronze medal at the prestigious San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Not a gigantic honor, but a respectable start.

Likewise, I found it a very respectable reposado. Its perfumey nose smacks of its four months in oak barrels, with a slight smokiness mixing with its vanilla and apricot notes. Over a pair of ice cubes, Tres Rios opens quickly, revealing pungent middle notes and a soft finish on the throat.

Retail price is about $50.

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Bloomer Creek Reserve White

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Bloomer Creek Vineyards, located in Hector, NY, was founded in 1999 by Kim Engle, a veteran winery manager, and his wife, artist Debra Bermingham, and went into full production in 2004. I tried this wine with an elaborate luncheon prepared by noted Indonesian chef Yono Purnomo, owner of Yono's restaurant in Albany, NY.

• Bloomer Creek Vineyard 2006 Reserve White

This was my first intentional sampling of this product of New York's Finger Lakes region. I say "intentional" because each year I help judge the New York Wine & Food Classic and I had come across this exact wine in blind tastings that resulted in it winning "Best of Class: Blended White Wine" in the 2007 event.

This experience was just as positive. Engle's offering is an Alsatian-style Riesling blend that is at once fruity and pleasantly acidic. In other words, a Riesling that doesn't take itself too seriously but pleases nonetheless.

Kiwi, peach and a touch of pineapple come through in the middle range, and the lingering impression paired well with the Indonesian fare I consumed along with the wine: a boldly-sauced sauteéd pork tenderloin, spicy shrimp and a noodle dish with chicken, shrimp and vegetables all were beautifully complemented by the wine.

Retails for about $12.

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Sub Rosa vodkas

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Limited production and limited distribution may be the only thing keeping these vodkas from being the Next Big Thing. They're made by Mike Sherwood of Sub Rosa Spirits in rented facilities in Oregon. Each is 90 proof and infused with fresh herbs and spices, creating true flavors and natural colors.

• Sub Rosa Tarragon

The licorice-like tang of the fresh tarragon is at once evident in both the pale green color and the fragrant nose, but a hint of mint quickly creeps in, making me think of a variety of other things to blend with the vodka for some offbeat cocktails: light rum, pomegranate, fresh lemon juice ...

• Sub Rosa Saffron

Sherwood says he uses eight spices in this infusion, which begins moving it into the gin category. The pale yellow color catches the eye and complements the lemony flavor of coriander as well as the bite of peppers and ginger. Then, the sweetness of saffron and muskiness of cumin play off each other and cry out for citrus juices -- orange, lemon, lime -- to become part of a cocktail.

While I enjoyed the Tarragon Vodka, the Saffron expression outdoes it in complexity and possibilities.

Suggested retail price for each: $29.95.

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Chapoutier Belleruche Cote de Rhone

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This French offering was selected by Diane Pedinotti, a perennial Wine Spectator award winner for the wine lists at her two Saratoga Springs, NY, restaurants -- Mouzon House and One Caroline Street Bistro. Husband David, the executive chef, had put together a rustic French luncheon for us -- duck cassoulet, sweet potato tart and lamb lollipops -- to go with the wine.

• Chapoutier Belleruche Cote de Rhone

It's not surprising to find a pleasing wine from France's Rhone Valley. They've been making wine there for more than 2,000 years and the appelation has been around since 1937.

This is a pleasantly rich, berry-heavy blend of syrah and grenache grapes that went well with Pedinotti's rich fare. The winemaker urges pairing this particular wine with grilled or roast meats, especially lamb. After sampling it with the grilled lamb lollipops, I heartily concur.

The eye appeal of this well-structured wine is evident in its deep garnet color, followed by the aroma of cherries, then a touch of spice with soft tannins.

Retails in the $15 range.

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Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve

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This is the fourth blend in the Jameson Reserve line from Ireland's biggest whiskey exporter. It was launched last October, joining Jameson 12 Year Old Special Reserve, Jameson Gold Reserve and Jameson 18 Year Old Limited Reserve. My sample was dated January 18, 2008.

• Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve

When a whiskey/whisky is stamped with a "vintage," it requires careful attention. Like wine vintages, the same label may adorn very different products over a span of years. Thus, this latest addition to the Jameson Reserve line no doubt will taste different from one year to the next because it is a blend of older grain whiskies (over 20 ) plus pure pot still whiskey with both unmalted and malted barleys.

In addition, some of the Rarest Vintage Reserve was matured in used bourbon casks and some in port casks. It's a 92 proof blend. The company regards them as "the oldest and rarest whiskies" stored at the distillers' facility near Cork.

What all this boils down to is a brilliant whiskey: crystal clear, understated at first with slight touches of lavendar and vanilla, middle notes that reveal the mixed cask heritage by laying a hint of spice on the tongue, and a smooth, almost ethereal, finish.

The suggested U.S. retail price is $250, if you can find it at all. Only 1,300 three-litre cases were produced for this first vintage.

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Ron Zacapa Rum 23 yo

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I first came across the Zacapa brand while judging the inaugural International Cane Spirits Competition in Tampa, FL, in 2006. The company just signed a deal with international beverage giant Diageo for its products to be marketed and distributed globally. After three years, Diageo will get to buy a 50% equity share of the brand.

• Ron Zacapa Rum 23 yo

The Zacapa rum range includes Zacapa Centenario 15, Zacapa Centenario 23 and Zacapa Centenario XO. I'm partial to this expression which I voted to gold medal status in the International Cane Spirits Competition.

It's an "Irish whiskey style" of rum, nicely balanced between cask aging in used American oak barrels and alcoholic level (40%, or 80 proof). The dark amber color provides eye appeal. Butterscotch notes prevail, and the rum is smooth from first sip to lengthy finish.

The usual retail price is in the $50 range for the 750ml bottle.

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Flowers Pinot Noir

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I tasted this Sonoma Coast red at a rustic buffet meal -- roast chicken, grilled vegetables, salad vinaigrette, honey-topped spaghetti squash -- prepared by Larry Schepici, chef-owner of Tosca Grille, the Illium Cafe and La Marché Vert, all in Troy, NY.

• Flowers Pinot Noir 2006:

This is a bold yet nuanced California red, with intense raspberry and stone fruit flavors evident from the first sniff.

It's a product of Walt and Joan Flowers' winery where wines wirh a crisp acidity and full, lingering tastes are produced. I found it more than held its own throughout a meal that ranged from savory roast chicken to sharp vinaigrettes and pleasantly charred veggies hot off the grill.

Hints of pepper, violet and spices give way to supple tannings with touches of anise and toast. Should continue to mature in the bottle for the next few years,

Retail price runs all over the place, from $49.99 to $58.

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Domaine de Canton Ginger Vodka

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This liqueur, created years ago on the French Indo-China ginger root estate of Domaine de Canton in what became Vietnam, won "best in show" award at the 2007 World Beverage Competition, the largest such event in the world.

• Domaine de Canton Ginger Cognac:

This 80-proof VSOP cognac is infused with baby ginger, which comes through immediately in the zesty nose.

The ginger-pepper taste relaxes a bit after the bottle is open for a while, but always reminds one of those warm ginger snaps fresh from the oven. The straw-yellow color, slight acidity, bittersweet flavoring components and tangy aftertaste make for a very unusual, refreshing liqueur.

It retails at selected stores for about $30. To find a vendor, go here. And, go here for a look at another ginger-infused drink, this one a domestic vodka.

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Handicapping a Bourbon Derby

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I convened a large group of bourbon fanciers to take over a tavern in Saratoga Springs, NY, and spend the evening sampling a range of the golden-amber whiskies. Here were the results.

• Basil Hayden: This was a nice starter. Mild enough not to deaden the palate for the later samplings. It's one of the popular Jim Beam Brands "small batch bourbons" and a good starting point for those people curious about bourbons but under the misapprehension that one sip will knock you head-over-teakettle. It's a light, clear distillation with slightly citrus overtones, a pale amber look and mild aroma.

• Hancock's: This single-barrel whiskey (which means it is not a blend of several barrels) has a somewhat sweet taste, making it perfect for mixed drinks. One taster said it had "almost a clove taste," another that it was "a tad strong and sour." It got its highest marks for color and aroma.

• Woodford Reserve: Here we began nudging above the 90-proof brands. This one attacked the palate with its not-unpleasant hints of leather and tobacco. "Too much going on!" said one judge. However, "That is beautiful," said another while holding his glass up to the light. Two sips later he compared the taste to that of diet soda. Several found the aroma flat after the initial leather/tobacco experience, but two others liked the lingering finish. Everyone loved the look of it and the mellow aftertaste.

• Elijah Craig: Here we were into the 18-year-old stuff, although still at around 90 proof. "It's amazing what age does to a bourbon," remarked one judge. "Great when sipped slowly," said another. Most thought the aroma complex with many diverse scents -- vanilla, caramel, spice. Finished on top of the field in three categories: clarity, aroma and smoothness.

• Pappy Van Winkle's: This 90-proof 20-year-old was much touted by our barkeep, but didn't fare as well with some of the judges. The good comments: "Sweet, woody finish." "Could be a winner for some." "The color is perfect." The bad: "A bit sharp and fruity." "Too much bite." "Far too pungent an aroma; works against the taste all the way."

• Booker's: This unfiltered 120.5-proof whiskey is bold in color, aroma and taste. Its powerful taste and high alcohol content can smother other tastes, so it's best to have it as an after-dinner drink with a splash of water. (Contrary to what you may think, adding a bit of water to a fine bourbon only lengthens the lingering aftertaste, rather than diluting it.) "It has a strong initial bite that levels out just a bit. The bite shouldn't be confused with the fact that it is very smooth," said one judge. "Makes me want to dance," said another who, it should be noted, did not.

When the scores were counted up, Elijah Craig (109.2 points) was the winner by a fairly wide margin over Pappy Van Winkle's (101.5) and Booker's (100.5). The bottom three were Hancock's (94.5), Basil Hayden (86.5) and Woodford Reserve (82.4).

Of course, given the Elijah Craig place in history that gives credit to the Rev. Mr. Craig for creating bourbon, just being selected to be in the same competition with it is an honor.

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Hendrick's Gin

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The folks at the Hendrick's distillery in Ayrshire, Scotland, really try to emphasize that their gin is not for everyone. "Loved by a select few" is its byword. I count myself as part of that group.

• Hendrick's Gin:

Gin sampling, in my experience, involves the nose as much as the palate. While each gin has a juniper berry and alcohol base, the recipes can vary greatly. Some -- Bombay Sapphire being the most prominent example -- put their ingredients right on the label. Others -- Plymouth, for example -- rigorously guard their old, old recipes.

Hendrick's, bottled at a slightly-higher-than-average 88 proof, likes to talk about the obvious: cucumbers and rose petals. Both are obvious in the initial nose and throughout the tasting.

Hendrick's manufacturing process may have as much to do with its gin as do its ingredients. It has one of only four existing Carter-Head stills in the world. It was built in 19th century London and was restored to its original condition. The distillers explain that instead of boiling ingredients, the Carter-Head "bathes" them in vapors to foster a very slow buildup.

No matter how they do it, Hendrick's comes out as a beautiful gin, the fresh taste of cucumber helping create perhaps the cleanest dry martini I've ever experienced, but gentle enough to be pleasant merely over a few ice cubes.

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Bushmills 1608

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When Bushmills celebrates next year the 400th anniversary of being awarded its license to distill by King James I, it will be doing it with a very special whiskey. This particular commemorative was made using something known as "crystal malt." I was able to get an advance tasting.

• Bushmills 1608:

I'm admittedly partial to Bushmills and Black Bush, a pair of very easy to drink Irish whiskies from the iconic Northern Ireland distillery's line. This, the sixth style but in limited quantities, will be on sale in the U.S. only from February through December next year. After that it will be available only at the distillery store.

Bushmills 1608 is a worthy special blend. The crystal malt -- which has a crystallized appearance when germinated, and thus still moist, barleycorns are lightly toasted -- introduces a sweet, toffee note to the final product. Also in the mix are notes from the classic Bushmills malt whiskies matured in a combination of used American white oak and Spanish Oloroso sherry casks.

Bushmills whiskies in general tend toward the sweet side of the palate, and 1608 doesn't diverge from that path: vanilla, honey and toffee notes are prevalent, and the finish reminds me of a high-grade dark chocolate.

All these elements work well with the slightly higher than average potency -- 46% alcohol by volume, or 92 proof. The suggested retail price is $100.

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Mark West Pinot Noir

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At the Mark West Winery in California, "Pinot for the People" is the slogan and "We have no land. We have no vineyards. We have no winery." is the manifesto. This is one of those companies that buys grapes from various growers, has winemaker Alex Cose blend them to produce a couple of nice pinot noirs, and sells them cheap. Does it work? As co-owner Sandy Pogue of the French-style gourmet bistro The Epicurean in Brunswick, NY, told me the other day, "It's my best-selling red. Sometimes it's almost too easy to sell."

• Mark West Pinot Noir 2005:

This mostly California Central Coast wine is the company's hot seller of the moment, a blend that includes 13% syrah and 2% chardonnay. The result is a deep ruby color, and a madcap array of fragrances in the bouquet, most prominent that of pomegranates, bacon, cola, some spice, and lots of lush fruit.

Aging in oak adds the nuances of toast and wood. I like the light, silky mouthfeel and the fairly long finish that makes this both a meal wine and a relax-by-the-fireplace wine.

Retails in the $11 range.

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True North vodkas

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Grand Traverse Distillery, founded by Kent Rabish in 2005, had targeted autumn of 2008 to introduce its first flavored vodka. However, the Michigan company beat that goal by many months with its new cherry infusion.

• True North Vodka:

The original Grand Traverse product is a quality addition to the super-premium category, so much so that it was awarded a gold medal by the 2007 International Review of Spirits.

It's a smooth, silky spirit, which is a "must" quality to be in this category. The combination of good northern Michigan rye and the region's quality water gives this Traverse City distillery a leg up. I found a slight bit of pleasing heat along with the smoothness, thereby imparting a bit of extra character that holds up through the triple-filtration process.

• True North Natural Cherry Flavor Vodka:

If Grand Traverse had selected any other fruit for its initial flavoring it would have been laughed out of a state known for the quality and abundance of its cherry crop, a crop so integral to the region that it calls itself the Cherry Capital of the World.

The trick here is that instead of merely infusing the rye-based vodka with cherries, there is a hint of chocolate as well. That's one more credit to Rabish's creation that helps differentiate it from the pack of fruit flavor-infused vodkas with which it is competing. I found the richness of this concoction at once both arresting and satisfying.

Both vodkas carry a suggested retail price of $29.99.

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White Springs Gewürtztraminer

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This gewürtz is from a relatively new winery located in Geneva, NY, on Seneca Lake. The facility was founded in 2003 by Carl Fribolin. This sample from winemaker Derek Wilber is from vineyards that produced their first full crop this harvest.

• White Springs Finger Lakes 2006 Gewürtztraminer:

This wine, made from estate grown grapes, is described as “highly fragrant,” but I didn’t pick up on that. I found the nose faint and the flavor gentle but pleasant.

It is not a big gewürtz by any means, but would pair well with creamy cheeses, vinaigrette-dressed salads, nuts and even mild smoked fishes.

It retails for $14.99.

It is interesting to compare this wine to a Rooster Hill Estate Gewürtztraminer 2006 made from grapes harvested only two days earlier at nearby Keuka Lake, showing the mini-terroirs of the lakes region.

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Sheldrake Point dessert riesling

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Sheldrake Point is located on a jut of glacial soil extending into Cayuga Lake near Ithaca, NY. This example of winemaker Dave Breeden's work sprang from a lucky infestation of botryitis that concentrated the riesling grapes into fruit ideal for this dessert-style wine.

• Sheldrake Point Bunch Select Riesling 2006:

Only 100 cases of this delicious wine were made in 2006. It's not made every year -- in fact, Sheldrake has five different rieslings but doesn't make each one each year. The wine comes from all vinifera plantings.

I'm not particularly attracted to overly sweet wines, but the 6% residual sugar in this bunch select wine is nicely balanced with the acid to form a very drinkable wine that does not necessarily need to be used as a food accompaniment. Well chilled, it would be a perfect after-dinner finisher on its own.

Notes of honey, melon and the luscious riesling itself all come through in a perfectly-made product that retails for $19.99.

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Rooster Hill Gewürtztraminer

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I was able to do a side-by-side comparison of this bold gewürtz with a milder style from an adjoining part of New York's Finger Lakes, which shows how both differences in winemaking as well as the effects of the lakes region's micro-climates can make a big difference.

• Rooster Hill Estate Gewürtztraminer 2006:

This is a single-vineyard wine from the Keuka Lake complex, the second crop off these particular vines that were planted in 2003.

The floral nose quickly gives way to a complex set of flavors offering apple, pineapple and more florals. Winemaker Barry Tortolon used two different yeasts to emphasize the floral aroma as well as the long taste.

This is a well-balanced wine with a 3.21 ph and just 1.8 residual sugar, with 11.7% alcohol. This wine, which retails for $15.99, will work well with multi-flavored meals or as a standalone wine.

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Lakewood Vineyards Port

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True port is, of course, a product of Portugal. But, where there's a will there's a way, as we can see from the efforts of this fourth-generation Stamp family farm and winemaking operation on Seneca Lake near Watkins Glen, NY.

• Lakewood Vineyards 2005 Port:

This is the fourth edition of the Lakewood port made from very ripe, partially raisined baco noir grapes. Previous harvests in 1998, 1999 and 2001 were well received by consumers, but this one may be the best of the bunch.

From the classically-designed bottle to the deep red color and heady aroma of the wine, this is an impressive port. The nose is obvious of raspberries, but currants and darker fruit elements meander through the taste. I can see this port holding up to strong cheeses -- gorgonzola, cheddar -- if used with a dessert plate. I can just as easily imagine curling up in front of the fireplace and sipping it on its own.

The '05 port retails for a bargain $14.99.

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Chateau Frank Blanc de Noirs

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Quality wines are expected from the Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars operation that twice (2001, 2006) has been named New York's "Winery of the Year." This bubbly was originally developed by the late Willy Frank, son of Konstantin and father of the current owner, Fred.

• Chateau Frank 2000 Blanc de Noirs:

Pinpoint bubbles and notes of green apple and kiwi mark this "methode champenoise" that was bottled in 2000 from recently-disgorged wine.

It was made strictly from red-skinned estate fruit grown during a classic season -- 90% pinot noir and 10% pinot meunier, a pair of classic champagne grapes.

This is a fine example of a domestic champagne-style wine -- well structured, lengthy and bold -- that can be served with confidence and pride. It retails for $29.99.

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Anthony Road Sweet Dream

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Anthony Road has developed since 1973 from a grape-growing enterprise overlooking Seneca Lake in New York's Finger Lakes to a highly-regarded winemaking facility owned by John and Ann Martini. Since 2000, Johannes Reinhardt, a native of Germany whose family has been involved in the wine business since 1438, has been the winemaker.

• Sweet Dream 2006 Seneca Lake Vignoles:

This dessert wine has 7% residual sugar, nicely balanced with a touch of acidity that prevents the cloying effect lesser such wines exhibit.

The character of the vignoles grape, a French-American hybrid, has a natural balance that was preserved in the winemaking process here. As is the case with any well-made dessert wine, it will work well alone as well as with something deliciously decadent such as, say, cheesecake, fruits or chocolate.

The suggested retail price is $16.99.

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Piper-Heidsieck

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In recent times, the majority of my consumption of champagne (or methode champenois products) has been restricted to domestic bubblies. That's because there are so many new ones coming along I like to keep up on them from a consumer's point of view. Sometimes, however, it's a treat to get back to basics as I did with my Thanksgiving meal.

• Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Brut:

This product from the famous Piper-Heidsieck house founded way back in 1785 is the epitome of a French non-vintage brut champagne.

It's a pale gold with pinpoint bubbles that last throughout a leisurely meal, making it an excellent dining companion compared to champagnes that lose their effervescence quickly -- the kind I term "toasting champagnes" because you're not going to nurse them.

It's a creamy wine with the tang of green apples, even with some vaguely chocolate notes that combine to make it a complex, well-made champagne.

Retails for about $30 for the 750ml bottle.

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Belle de Brillet

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Politics aside, there are some things the French do better than anyone else. Bread, for example, or being able to make mundane phrases sound classy - like "Lavez-vous les mains avant le renvoi au travail" instead of "Wash your hands before returning to work" -- or making cognac. I particularly like the pear-infused type -- of cognac, that is.

• Belle de Brillet Pear Liqueur:

Maison Brillet is a respected French cognac house with an ancient heritage. Guy Brillet installed the first still in his vineyard in the Grand Champagne region in 1656. Six generations later, in 1850, Vivien Brillet increased the original farmstead's acreage and installed his stills and cellars in the Petite Champagne region bordering the Grand Champagne.

I'm glad he did. Over the years, Brillet cognacs and infused cognacs have come to a consistently high level of quality at reasonable prices.

This amber nectar is a smooth blending of macerated, ripe Williams pears and cognac ("La poire Williams au Cognac") that makes it a perfect after-dinner liqueur either over ice or unadorned. Both the essences of the spirit and the fruit maintain their own characteristics despite the good marriage.

Retails for about $35 for a 750ml bottle.

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Russell's Reserve

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I met the revered Wild Turkey master distiller Jimmy Russell last year during a tour of the American Whiskey Trail. Over lunch at Cavanaugh's in Lawrenceburg, KY, he extolled the virtues of his special 10-year-old reserve bourbon. And rightly so.

• Russell's Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon: It's seldom I find a whiskey with nothing to quibble about. This is one such.

This ultra-smooth 90 proof bourbon has the traditional nose of caramel, vanilla and a touch of sweet oak. It also exhibits a silky feel on the tongue coupled with a satisfying depth in its sweet, lingering aftertaste.

I rarely advocate using a bourbon of such quality in a mixed cocktail, but it was so complex I had to try it in a Manhattan. The result: Exquisite, the sweet vermouth helping lure out the spice and cloves of the Reserve.

It is available in a wood-stoppered 750ml bottle at a suggested retail price of $29.

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PAMA

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This pomegranate liqueur from Heaven Hill Distilleries (Evan Williams Kentucky Straight Bourbon, Whaler's Rum, Burnett's gin and vodka, etc.) employs all-natural California pomegranates and colors the product with elderberry and grapeskin extracts.

• PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur: The current pomegranate craze -- fresh fruit, fresh and frozen juices, processed drinks -- was the impetus for this first-of-a-kind liqueur. It's a very versatile item for mixed drinks.

It is at once tart and sweet, which awakens both the palate and the imagination to employ it to its fullest. You can find a variety of recipes online. However, I created my own tequila-based cocktail in which PAMA provided an almost gingery element that pleasantly permeated the drink. The recipe:

3 parts extra añejo tequila
1 part Grand Marnier
1 tablespoon agave nectar
3 tablespoons PAMA
Sweet black cherry for garnish

Put all ingredients in a cocktail shaker filled halfway with fresh ice. Shake vigorously, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with the stem-on cherry.

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Old Forester Birthday Bourbon

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Master distiller Chris Morris has been releasing Old Forester's vintage-dated Birthday Bourbons each year since 2002, usually to great acclaim and honors. The whiskey comes from the Brown-Forman stable headquartered in Louisville, KY, that also produces Jack Daniel's, Woodford Reserve and other brown liquors.

• Old Forester 2007 Birthday Bourbon: This orange-brown treat has been aged in oak since 1994 and was just released in September on the 161st birthday of George Garvin Brown, founder of Old Forester and the first person to bottle bourbon.

This 94-proof example follows the last few annual releases in that it offers a prominent cinnamon-caramel nose that sets up the taster for even more caramel in the taste, leavened by a bit of vanilla and apple.

A hint of mint also is detectable in the clean but lingering finish. Sampled straight over a couple of ice cubes helps open up both the taste and aroma.

The bourbon is sold in an elegantly squat bottle, with the 750ml product selling for a suggested retail price of $35.

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Argiolas Costamolino

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I sampled this wine, like the Finca La Linda in the previous posting, from the cellar of the Reluctant Panther Inn in Manchester, VT. It's a white varietal that comes from the Sardinian winery owned by Antonio Argiolas and his twin sons, Franco and Giuseppe, who have long been focused on grapes indigenous to the island, located west of Italy, which governs it.

• Argiolas 2006 Costamolino: I'm continually on the lookout for wines of character to go with seafood dishes or cheese platters. Too often what is proffered is a very average thing. This product, made from vermentino grapes, will go with both aforementioned items as well as spicy Asian foods and bold salads.

Its greenish-golden color is an eye-catcher, while its rich nose of tropical fruits and honey quickly set up the palate for the tangy acidity that splashes the tongue in a pleasant bath of rich flavors.

Retails for about $13.

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Finca La Linda tempranillo

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Despite my affinity for its many malbecs, Argentina offers other fines wines as well. Take tempranillo, for example. This particular example is one I tried with dinner at the luxurious Reluctant Panther Inn in Manchester, VT.

• Finca La Linda 2004 Tempranillo: Tempranillo, the classic grape of Spanish Rioja, is native to northern Spain but the thick-skinned fruit does very well in the high slopes of Argentina's Andean foothills in Mendoza province.

This wine smoothly complemented a wide range of food our party of four enjoyed -- from delicate diver scallops to fluffy pastas to a hearty filet mignon. Despite the fact the low acidity and low sugar of tempranillo grapes usually results in a lighter-bodied wine, this Finca La Linda has body and structure.

It's an aromatic, full-fruited wine with elements of cherries and strawberries as well as a slightly spicy finish. It retails for about $16.

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Morgan Twelve Clones

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I was served this California red blend to accompany a spectacular cioppino Executive Chef Andrew Plummer of McGuire's in Albany, NY, whipped up for a private luncheon interview. It actually includes 12 different clonal selections of pinot noir.

• Morgan 2006 Twelve Clones:

Grapes grown on Morgan's organically farmed Double L Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands of Salinas County make up 40% of this pinot noir blend.

It is as broad in notes as the cioppino is in seafood ingredients: tobacco and leather, cherries and blackberries, roses and spices. A nicely constructed wine with rounded, medium body, a clean finish and versatile enough to go with complex foods.

It retails for about $25.

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The Hunt Country blues

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Hunt Country Vineyards, which makes about 20 wines at its facilities on the shore of Keuka Lake in New York's Finger Lakes, has two I particularly like. Both are encased in cobalt blue bottles. I had the opportunity to re-taste them over the weekend when they were part of the lineup of wines used in a workshop I co-hosted at the annual "Pride of New York Harvest Fest" food and wine extravaganza in Albany, NY.

• Hunt Country 2006 Vignoles:

Vignoles is a Franco-American grape hybrid that presents first as a sweet white wine that makes one think of a dessert wine, but its high acidity helps create instant character when used as a meal wine.

Owner/winemaker Art Hunt's expression of this vignoles presents notes of citrus along with a bit of melon and pineapple. It's best served chilled, and Hunt recommends it as a complement to spicy foods which its rich flavor helps soothe. Suggested retail price is a bargain $10.

• Hunt Country 2006 Vidal Blanc Ice Wine: This is one of the finest ice wines you'll find on the market. It's almost too easy to drink once you are exposed to its exotic fruit flavors and tastes of apricot and honey. I can't imagine any dessert it would not complement.

For those not used to good ice wines, the $40 price tag might be a little surprising, but it shouldn't be. Good ice wines are expensive to make and, thus, expensive to buy. Caution: True ice wine must be made from grapes that have frozen on the vine. Some less-than-ethical types pick grapes, freeze them, then add sugar. They must label such things "ice" without the word "wine" being used. If it says "ice wine" it must be properly made.

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Thousand Islands white table wine

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This wine comes from the northernmost winery in New York State, an operation that dates only to 2002 when owner Steve Conaway retired from the military and he and wife Erika decided to create a winery on Alexandria Bay in the Thousand islands that string along the U.S./Canadian border. This non-vintage blend was featured at a workshop I co-hosted during the recent annual "Pride of New York Harvest Fest" wine and food extravaganza in Albany, NY.

• Wellesley Island White NV:

Since the Thousand Islands Winery decided to label this product with the name of a specific island, one is left to wonder if they plan 999 others.

That aside, Wellesley Island is a blend of Diamond, Catawba and Cayuga White grapes, the first two native to New York and the third created by the Cornell wine grape program.

The aroma and the rush of the first taste are fruit forward, offerings elements of melon and pineapple. This is a wine that should hold up well to seafoods or rich sauces. Retails for a mere $8.99.

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Sheldrake Point Cab Franc

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This '05 blend was one of the wines featured at a workshop I presented during the recent annual "Pride of New York Harvest Fest" wine and food extravaganza in Albany, NY.

• 2005 Sheldrake Point Cabernet Franc:

The cab franc wine is aged nine months, then blended with a touch of cabernet sauvignon to soften the tannins and mouthfeel.

This is a particularly fruity product, ripe with the taste of blackberries and plum, both evident in a full nose that accurately portrays what is to come. Good middle notes, with the sweetness gradually dissipating but the aftertaste of fruit taking a little longer to go.

Sheldrake Point Vineyard is located in Ovid, NY, on the western shore of Cayuga Lake, 20 miles north of Ithaca, home of Cornell University. This cab franc retails for $26.

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Castello Banfi wines

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Banfi is an American-founded Italian company that put Montalcino on the wine map with its brunellos and sangiovese blends. Its Artist Series is one of its more popular lines, but I had an opportunity to sample a fairly broad range during a private tasting in Saratoga County, NY, with Banfi Co-CEO James W. Mariani.

• 2001 Brunello de Montalcino DOCG:

Any wine that can hold its ground with steak forno is a big, bold wine. This 100% sangiovese is such a beast. It is aged at least two years in wood, primarly French oak but also Slavonian oak, then further matured in the bottle for an additional 8-12 months before release.

Deep garnet color, soft and velvety mouthfeel yet intense and alive with spice, stone fruit notes and a hint of licorice that melded with the spices, tomatoes and cheese in the bold steak dish I tried it with. Retails for about $70.

• 2005 Collepino:

This sangiovese/merlot blend, part of the aforementioned Artist Series (signified by the original art on the labels, this one of the "pine hill" for which it is named) is young, bold and full of fresh fruit flavor. The wine delivers precisely what the nose promises, which is sometimes a hard characteristic to find.

A medium density, tending toward the lighter side. It's the sort of wine that is perfect with food in that it doesn't tire the palate and, thus, shorten the enjoyment of the meal. It is just being launched nationwide for a very reasonable $11 a bottle.

• 2006 Banfi Fumaio:

This sauvignon blanc/chardonnay blend has been selling for 20 years in Italy but is new to the U.S. market this year. Served cold, it is crisp and delightfully fruity with melon and apricot notes, perfectly in keeping with its light straw yellow color and fruity nose. Retails for $9.

• 2006 Rosa Regale DOCG:

This sparkling wine made exclusively from brachetto d'Acqui grapes is a low-alcohol (7%) treat. Its ruby color, small bubbles, nose of rose and fruit, and taste marked by strawberies and raspberries make it both a dessert wine and a food wine for lighter meals. It also combines well with chocolate samplers. Retails for $23.

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Emiliana wines

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You may not be familiar with the Emiliana name, but you might be with Walnut Crest, the label under which the organic Chilean winery has been shipping its products abroad. The business is a partnership with the Banfi organization that is bringing more of its wines to the U.S. market. I was fortunate to sample several at a wine luncheon in Saratoga County, NY, hosted by James W. Mariani, co-CEO of Castelo Banfi.

• 2005 Coyam:

I am normally skeptical about any blend of more than four grapes. It takes a wonderful palate and a deft hand to make such a marriage work. Winemaker Alvaro Espinoza has both as shown by this blend of 45% syrah, 27% cabernet sauvignon, 14% merlot, 11% carmenere and 3% petit verdot. Both French and American oak is used to mature the wines ("coyam" means oak in the language of Chile's indigenous Mapuches people), The finished product looks syrupy with its bold color, but flows cleanly and wraps the tongue in a pleasant coverlet of fruit flavor, the wood nuances subtle.

Coyam has been selling for three years in Europe and South America but is new to the U.S. market this year, at a suggested retail price of $30.

• 2007 Emiliana Natura Gewurztraminer:

This is a first vintage that tells of kiwi and passion fruit; full nose, floral notes, sweet taste with a clean finish.

The wine has been sold in the UK under the Adobe name while the vines were maturing. This first vintage under the Natura name is extremely limited, with only 150 of the 500 cases produced shipped to selected dealers around the United States. Retails for about $14.

• 2004 Sincerity:

This merlot-cabernet sauvignon blend (75-25%, respectively) highlights the best part of each grape, resulting in a deep coloring which promises the intensity of the berry and black fruit nose and taste. Soft tannins, mellow finish. Retails for $14.

• 2006 Emiliana Natura Carmenere:

The carmenere grape is in the cabernet franc family, and needs longer aging on the vine. This grower lets it stand 10 days to two weeks longer. The initial taste is a very forward combination of cherries and plums, although it's more of a shock wine than anything very complex. Sweetness dominates. Retails for $9.

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Glenmorangie's new finishes

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They're doing very interesting things in the Glen of Tranquility, maturing some of their whiskies in non-traditional ways. Owner Moet Hennessy's changes to the line that produces the top-selling single malt Scotch in Scotland rely on different finishes for already-aged whiskies. I had the opportunity to try several 92-proof "extra matured" whiskies, as the company is calling the new offerings, at a special tasting at the British Consul General's residence in Manhattan.

• Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban:

This premium Scotch whisky goes through a pair of maturation steps, and it shows in the final product.

The whisky has been aged 10 years in used bourbon barrels, then transferred for two years' extra aging in port pipes. The result is a lovely combination of the essences that make bourbon so unique as well as the additional smoothing from the port-soaked wood.

Quinta Ruban envelops the tongue in a warm, smooth coating then moves on to release notes of chocolate, caramel and even a touch of mint. The complexity of flavors and aromas make this a whisky worth lingering over.

• Glenmorangie Nectar D'Or:

Sauternes is a sweet, delicate French wine, usually served as a dessert wine, made from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes that have been affected by Botrytis cinerea, the "noble rot." Thus, the characteristics it imparts to the 10-year-old Glenmorangie during the two-year extra aging process are truly unique.

The Nectar D'Or contains some of the distinct flavor notes of the partially raisined Sauternes wine, with a pleasing golden color. Fruit, honey, a touch of spice and a long, lingering finish make this a desireable whisky.

Note: Glenmorangie also is offering Lasanta, a 10-year-old Scotch matured for two more years in used sherry casks.

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Aberfeldy 21 Scotch

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Tasting the Aberfeldy line of whiskies is always a treat. And sometimes one's mind can be changed in the process when you're exposed to a particular item for the first time.

• Aberfeldy 21 Year old Single Malt Highland Whisky:

I sometimes find the older, pricier single malts are less than they're purported to be. Experience shows the better quality stuff lies somewhere in the middle of the product line. Thus, this 21-year-old was a very pleasant surprise.

The lushness of honey and heather are immediately apparent in the nose, joined by hints of orange, vanilla and a bit of charred oak in the middle tastes. There is a notion of a good liqueur in the fullness of this single malt, which has a long, spicy finish.

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Rye whiskies

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Numerous distillers are re-entering the movement to bring rye back to its onetime place of honor among domestic whiskies. The following notes were created to accompany my cover story in the October issue of Whisky magazine on the rye rebound.

• Black Maple Hill 23 Year Old Straight Rye:

An initial burst of brown sugar, heat and spice quickly transforms into a mellow, oaky smoothness. Despite the richness there is an ethereal lightness one seldom experiences in hot ryes. Fruit notes such as apple and pear dance around the edges, but the palate responds again and again to the varied spices. Utterly splendid.

• Sazerac Straight Rye:

Quite different from the average rye, with a sophsticated softness that melds the expected fruit and spice notes of rye whiskey with a soft, oaky topping. Long finish with a distinct cocoa tang.

• Rittenhouse 100 Proof Bottled-in-Bond Rye: A fine balance of rye's traditional sweet-and-sour tastes, with a long, crisp finish that lingers as a peppery tingle on the tongue.

• Old Potrero 18th Century Style Whiskey:

Hits the palate with full force. No wonder. It's aged in uncharred oak and is bottled at barrel strength, so a bit of water or ice is advisable to reduce the heat and open its spicy richness.

• Michter's Small Batch US 1 Unblended: This has the distinct sharpness of grain alcohol moderated by aging in bourbon-soaked white oak barrels that take the edge off the initial sharp, robust taste. Relatively short finish.

• Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye:

This 13-year-old offers a mature combination of flavors -- cocoa, vanilla, pepper and spices. The long finish is subtle, even refreshing without the warm, cloying quality of younger ryes.

• Wild Turkey Straight Rye Whiskey:

Perfumey quality reminiscent of the distiller's bourbon, but a coffee/leather/spice layering to the nose and taste makes it a distinctive rye.

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Sobieski Vodka

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The flood of super-premium vodkas hitting the market sparked the introduction of this high-quality, low-priced Polish rye product aiming to undercut the competition.

• Sobieski Vodka:

Dankowski rye is one of the crown jewels among Poland's legendary grains, so one would think it would be used only in the high end -- i.e., premium priced -- vodkas. However, Sobieski's aim is to grab a chunk of the vodka market by offering a quality vodka at bargain basement prices.

I purchased a 1.75 liter plastic bottle (suggested retail price $19.99; I paid $3 less than that) and consider it a gem of a find.

Sobieski's distillation process has eliminated the unpleasant heat of most low-priced vodkas, creating a smooth, creamy product that envelops the tongue when tried right out of the freezer. I also tried it with an instant strawberry maceration. In other words, I popped a tiny fall strawberry right from my garden, gave it a few chews and sipped the Sobieski over it. I've found lesser vodkas tend to come out somewhat bitter when I do this, but this particularly mix created what seemed like a weeks-old rested fusion.

Sobieski should have a market winner on its hands.

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Black Bush

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I found myself in McGrievey's, a classy restaurant and tavern just steps from the Hudson River in Waterford, NY, the nation's oldest incorporated village. What better whisky to order in a place with an Irish name than this Bushmill's gem I hadn't had in several years.

• Bushmill's Black Bush:

Standard Bushmill's, the Northern Ireland-made golden amber whisky, is a fine example of the genre. But the distiller's Black Bush takes enjoyment to a much higher plane.

Black Bush is frighteningly smooth and, thus, almost too easy to sip. It offers a slightly floral nose, quickly opening up over a couple of ice cubes or a splash of water. The initial notes of caramel, vanilla and spice blend harmoniously into a continuous treat for the palate.

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Courvoisier VSOP Exclusif

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In just a few weeks, this new cognac will be on retail shelves. I had the opportunity to conduct an advance tasting.

• Courvoisier VSOP Exclusif:

From the shape of the bottle to the rich deep-tea color to the smooth finish, this is a contemporary cognac. Courvoisier says it designed Exclusif as a "mixable" cognac, but that seems like something of a waste. The floral nose, vanilla and ginger notes made it a straight treat for me. Probably because it contains one of the oldest VSOPs.

There is a certain sophistication to the recipe, and enjoying it over a couple of ice cubes in a snifter allows all the mid-range notes to open up to the nose and palate.

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Xuxu

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Deer and chipmunks have made short work of the strawberry plants in my backyard garden again this year. However, I have found a liquid version of the beloved fruit that has been getting me through these troubling times.

• Xuxu:

This vodka-and-strawberry concoction from Germany (imported by Duggan's International Imports) is a pleasant attack on the palate. Despite the presence of some artificial flavors, there is no doubt there are strawberries in abundance. The thick consistency of the 30-proof drink is lush with berry pulp that constitutes 51% of the mix.

Its makers suggest Xuxu be enjoyed well-chilled and straight, or over crushed ice, or mixed with sparkling wine or as a dessert topping. The message is, this is bold stuff. It makes a fine late-summer ingredient, the sort of thing that can help you mellow out .

My preference is to dilute it to some small degree. I found it a bit overpowering in both mouthfeel and strength of taste when tried straight, even very cold. The sparkling wine idea is best, say a nice spumante. This is an intriguing product that won't curl up and die when sharing glass space with something else.

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Summers wines

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The standard answer to how you can be in the winemaking business and have a million dollars is to start with 2 million. I didn't presume to ask about the personal finances of Jim Summers, but I do know he did well in the investment game before launching Summers Estate Wines, a family-run winery in Napa Valley, CA. He also is doing well with a controlled-size output, some of which I had the opportunity to try during a wine dinner this week at Charlie's restaurant in Lake Placid, NY. They run from the mid-$20s to the mid-$40s.

• Estate Charbono 2005:

This is an unusual varietal Summers says is thought to have originated between southeastern France and northwestern Italy. It now is found growing on less than 100 acres of California. It's a fruit forward wine, bold in color and opening quickly on the palate. A real treat and a break from the usual styles.

• Knight's Valley Merlot 2004:

I'm seldom bowled over by a merlot, but I was by this big merlot, loaded with spice and pepper and fruit. Excellent body and lingering vanilla finish, with soft tannins.

• Andrianna's Cuvee 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon:

Named for Summers' daughter, this seems like a wine best described the way he describes her -- "14 going on 40." It has the complexity of youth and blending of grapes from three vineyards, plus maturity from the French oak in which it's aged. Firm tannins, fine mouthfeel.

• Estate Zinfandel 2005:

Dark, rich, full bodied fruit with a touch of spice and berries. Typical of the better Napa zins, with a certain lushness.

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Crustacés from Alsace

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Any wine named "Crustacés" must have been made with seafood in mind. Add to that my appreciation for Alsatian white blends acquired during a trip through that region of France several years ago, and this was a must-taste.

• Dopff & Irion Alsace Crustacés 2003:

If the label includes crabs and shrimp to reinforce the name of the wine, there's only one thing to do: Grab a plateful of 12-to-15 count shrimp, chill the wine and try them together. I did, and success was achieved.

This Alsatian white blend is dry, fresh tasting, crisp and pairs ever-so-nicely with the sweetness of the shrimp and the bite of the horseradish-laced cocktail sauce. Notes of citrus zest, thyme and a vaguely mineral nuance make a complementary freshness to the wine. It's a good example of the Dopff & Irion line of wines created in the ancient city of Riquewihr.

René Dopff, who was a member of the French Resistance during World War II, took over the winery after the war, championing the "terroir" concept by naming each sector of his estate with different names to differentiate the types of grapes grown there: Les Murailles for the Riesling grapes, Les Sorcieres for the Gewurztraminer, Les Amandiers for the Muscat, and Les Maquisards for the Tokay Pinot Gris.

Suggested retail price: $11.

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Sonnema VodkaHerb

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Holland is the birthplace of gin. So, it can be reasoned, why not the home of fine vodka as well since the two spirits begin the same? This infused product is fairly new to the market.

• Sonnema VodkaHerb:

This is an infused spirit that delivers from the first whiff of the herbal nose. Most vodkas benefit from being thoroughly chilled. I found Sonnema actually benefits from tending toward room temperature which allows its complexities to gradually unfold.

The distiller says the vodka is "based on the same original recipe and traditional methods" created by Fedde Sonnema who made the original blend of herbs and spices in the 1800s which he sold first as a gin additive, then as a gin proper. Elements of thyme, licorice and orris are detectable. A real winner of a specialty vodka which should make its own mark in an already-crowded field.

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New York wine treats

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Nearly 800 wines were entered in the 22nd annual New York Wine & Food Classic competition this year. The judging panel I served on sampled 193 entries. Here are some quick observations on some I liked best and that received double gold (unanimous) or gold medals from my panel:

DOUBLE GOLD

• Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars Chardonnay Reserve 2005 ($19.99): This oaked chardonnay was redolent of spice, oak and flowers. Great balance and eminently drinkable now.

• Barrington Cellars Buzzard's Blush 2006 ($6.50): This hybrid blush, with a 4.0 RS, has strong plum notes accompanied by a whisper of florals. Well balanced, and with a lingering finish.

• Pindar Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2005 ($18.99): Spice and fruit foward, with a nice nose, smooth lingering middle notes and a lasting finish.

• Wolffer Estate Estate Merlot 2003 ($35): Nice nose, some heat in the middle, good balance beween sugar and acid, short but pleasant finish.

• Heron Hill Winery Ingle Vineyard Riesling Ice Wine 2004 ($49.99): Smooth, rich, with good fruit and a nice balance.

GOLD

• Lieb Family Cellars Blanc de Blanc 2003 ($35): This sparkling vinifera had immediate apple notes, clean and bold taste, lingering finish.

• Herman J., Wiemer Vineyard Blanc de Noir 2003 ($25): A sparkling vinifera with a pleasantly raw taste of the grape that excites the palate, moving to milder middle notes and a short, pleasant finish.

• Cayuga Ridge Estate Winery Chardonnay 2006 ($12.95): A clean nose and initial impact on the palate for this unoaked chardonnay, with plum and apple notes and a long finish.

• Hunt Country Vineyards Pinot Gris 2006 ($14.99): Good fruit, proper balance between sugar and acididty, completed by a crisp finish.

• Goose Watch Winery Traminette 2006 ($12): A tang of fruit strikes the palate right off, followed by a crisp middle and a pleasantly acid finish.

• Fox Run Vineyards Fox Trot Red NV ($12.99): A native red that was like a glass of raspberries. Fresh, summery and delicious.

• Oak Summit Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 ($30): Bold on the tongue, set up by an aromatic nose. A well-made wine with impeccable balance.

• Pindar Vineyards Merlot Reserve 2003 ($18.99): Nice full fruit, good eye appeal with its rich garnet color, whisper light finish.

• Osprey's Dominion Vineyards Flight Meritage 2002 ($35): Heavy with berries, enticing nose, long finish. Overall, nicely constructed.

• Torrey Ridge Winery Scarlet Red NV ($14.99): This red raspberry and cranberry melomel blend isn't at all cloying despite its ingredients. Nice balance, fruity, warm and rich finish.

• Pindar Vineyards Johannisburg Riesling Ice Wine 2005 ($34.99): A light, syrupy consistenct with a full body, good balance and full grape flavor.

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Reyka Vodka

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"Lava rock filtration." "Bottled at source." What kinds of claims are these for a vodka? In this instance, it's Iceland's Reyka brand vodka, made in the island nation's only distillery.

• Reyka Vodka:

This is a spirit that entertains and informs as well as satisfies. There's a particular bit of Icelandic lore on each bottle, but what it is depends on the day it is bottled. For example, if you find a small, penguin-like bird called a puffin on your bottle neck label, it means it's puffin mating season.

That sort of trivia aside, this is a fine grain-based vodka. It takes advantage of the ecological cleanliness of the far north Atlantic and the fact that it's made in small batches, using water drawn from a 4,000-year-old lava field that filters it nicely. It holds up very well to being stored in the freezer, releasing its slight nose and full-bodied flavor when poured into a shot glass or cocktail glass with the slightest hint of dry vermouth while in its syrupy state.

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m2 wine

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m2 -- for Layne Montgomery and Chris Matheny -- produces ultra-premium, small-lot wines from grapes grown throughout California. I tried one of their efforts at a group tasting in the Lodi Visitors' Center.

• 2006 Barrel Sample:

This example of old vine zinfindel is typical of plenty of small-batch efforts in northern California. It boasts a rich burgundy color, a very bold nose and immediate fruit. The lush mouthfeel and long finish make this elegant wine something to linger over.

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Van Ruiten wines

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Van Ruiten Family Winery is located on a former Lodi, CA, dairy farm. Winemaker Ryan Leeman makes some interesting wines, with hints of his early experience creating wines on Long Island after studing at Cornell University in Upstate New York. I sampled his handiwork during a recent visit.

• Pinot Gris 2006:

This boldly colored wine gives off fragrances of pineapple, apricot and melon. It took a silver medal at the California State Fair, no doubt impressing judges with its silk mouthfeel.

• Chardonnay 2005:

I liked the cross notes of lemon and floral that introduced the palate to the full body and slightly acidic finish. Aged 5 to 9 months in small French oak.

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Ripken Vineyards & Winery

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This small Lodi, CA, operation boasts its whimsicality as its strength. "We consider ourselves an artisan 'barnista' winery that is uniquely different, electric, eclectic, quirky, esoteric, even wacky, but never boring or weird," they say. They produce very small lots of different wines, mostly under 100 cases. Here's a look at two I tried during a recent visit.

• 2004 Pinot Gris:

This straw-colored offering is made with 100% barrel-fermented Pinot Gris. Crisp notes of citrus, kiwi and tropical fruit flavors balance well with hints of oak in a full-bodied finish.

• Tempranillo 2005:

A very well-balanced wine. Happily, it lacks the sometimes unpleasant heat found in a lot of tempranillos. Bold, fruit and with a lingering finish.

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Crystal Valley Wines

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Proprietor/winemaker Mitch Cosentino is known for producing zinfandels -- The Zin and Cigarzin in particular -- at his Lodi, CA, facility, but it would be foolish to limit his plaudits to those. He's an excellent blender and a tasting of his broader range proved that to me during a recent visit to his winery.

• Dolcetto '05:

This blend changes each year, always based on a tempranillo but with up to eight other grape varieties worked in, depending on what's good in a particular year. This '05 is dense, rich red in color, with restrained fruit that nevertheless keeps opening in an aromatic, heady way.

• Tempranillo '05:

This wine took a double gold in its class at the San Francisco Wine & Spirits Competition, and with good reason: spicy, with plenty of berries, nicely balanced and peppery.

• The Zin:

This is a big zin, heavy with berry flavors, vaguely spicy, with a pleasant warmth in the middle notes.

• Sauvignon Blanc:

Definite citrus and watermelon notes define this crisp, fresh, barrel-fermented creation that is about as good a food wine as you'll fine anywhere.

• Pinot Grigio: More complex than one would expect, with notes of lychee and melon, a bit of mineral, and a nice balance between acid and sugar.

• Cabernet Franc 2005:

Very fruit forward, with a big nose, heavy stone fruit in the middle, and just enough of the French oak in which it matured.

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Vino Con Brio

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Vino Con Brio (Italian for "wine with passion") is a boutique winery located in Lodi, CA, that has been operating since 2002 after decades as a grape-grower for other wineries. I tasted two of its eight Lodi Appelation wines during a recent visit there.

• 2005 Petite Syrah:

This wine earned a gold medal at the prestigious California State Fair. It boasts good acidic balance, solid stone fruit notes, and offers a bold mouthfeel and a silky lingering finish.

• Rosé:

This is made exclusively with Sangiovese grapes that provide a full fruit experience. It holds up well to pasta salads, crusty breads slathered with butter, and even vinaigrette-dressed green salads. A fine summer wine.

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Terrazas Malbec

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Malbec grapes have gone from being a minor French blending grape to standalone status as one of Argentina's top products in recent years.

• Terrazas de los Andes Malbec 2006:

This inexpensive (under $10) version of a rich Malbec (there also is a more expensive reserve version) comes from a winery located in the cool foothills of the Andes. A brilliant deep reddish purple color invites the eye, and the full nose with an intense fruit bouquet continues the journey.

The edgy taste offers both stone fruit -- plums, cherries -- and raisins that helps make this a good wine to accompany barbecued marinated meats in the Argentine tradition as well as pastas and rich sauces.

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Boca Loca Cachaça

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Boca Loca (Portugese for "crazy lips") uses an advertising campaign that plays heavily on Brazil's reputation for Carnaval and other sensual pasttimes. But it also pays attention to the competition in the cachaça field by emphasizing it is an "authentic handcrafted Brazilian rum."

• Boca Loca Cachaça:

This cousin of rum is in many countries largely unregulated, compared to stringent rules governing production of most rums. In the case of this brand, a comparatively recent entry to the U.S. market although it has been available in Europe for a decade, it is obvious it's not just tossed together.

Notes of toast, melon and some floral flourishes are readily apparent in the spirit, made in Sao Paulo state from single-plantation, hand-harvested and pressed sugar cane. It has a clean, sweet finish typical of the genre, making it suitable for straight sipping or as a versatile component in mixed drinks that usually call for rum, gin or vodka.

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El Tesoro Tequilas

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The 07.07.07 date was a fun one for many gamblers, superstitious people and numerologists. For Tequila Tapatio in Arandas, Jalisco, it was an anniversary -- 70 years from the day Felipe Camarena Hernandez founded the tequila distillery. As an invited guest for the celebration in Mexico last week, I had the opportunity to try the whole line of its 100% estate-grown blue agave El Tesoro tequilas, including the special Aniversario created for the occasion.

• Aniversario:

This seven-year-old copper-colored tequila was aged in charred American oak barrels, and the final product is a blend of the best of the small batch. "This is a one-shot. After this, there is no more," said current owner Carlos Camarena. While I didn't care for the Aniversario as much as I did El Tesoro's Paradiso or Añejo, it does have a bold, inviting nose, spice throughout and a smoky bourbon barrel-edged taste that lingers on the tongue.

• Paradiso:

This is the company's top-of-the-line product, created by the Camarenas and Alain Royer of A. de Fussigny Cognac. The 80-proof handcrafted blend is aged in used Cognac barrels, imparting a certain nuttiness, spice and floral combination to the long-lasting taste. Definite overtones of salt and smoke make this an ideal sipping tequila with tapas dishes: strong cheeses, smoked meats, etc.

• Añejo:

This spicy sipping tequila is aged two to three years in oak barrels, which helps give it a delicious amber coloring. It displays a pleasant nose followed by a full, balanced flavor with hints of caramel and vanilla drawn from the oak. Excellent over an ice cube that helps draw out its characters.

• Reposada:

Like the Añejo, this product is oak barrel aged well beyond legal requirements -- 8 to 11 months instead of the mandatory two. It is rich, mellow, with wood and vanilla notes

• Platinum:

This sweetish tequila is good for cocktail mixing. It is made from the sweetest part of the agave plant and bottled within 24 hours of distillation to maintain that bold, traditional tequila taste.

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Canadian Club

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During a recent visit to the Canadian Club Brand Heritage Centre in Walkerville, Ontario, I had the opportunity to sample four of the distillery's best Canadian whiskies up against two other iconic whiskies from elsewhere -- Maker's Mark from Kentucky and Famous Grouse from Scotland. Here are my notes on the CC products.

• Canadian Club:

This 80-proof six-year-old is the company's biggest seller. It is a pale amber color with an aroma full of spice, apple and vanilla notes. It's a light bodied whisky -- what its makers say is a good "transitional" liquor for younger palates seeking to move on from beer '' -- with a smooth, sweet, slightly spicy taste from its rye, rye malt, barley malt and corn building blocks and a clean, short finish. Good for mixed cocktails.

• Canadian Club Reserve:

This 80-proof offering undergoes pre-barrel blending, then is aged 10 years in small oak barrels. It's bright gold to bronze in color, with a nose less alcohol pervasive than the basic CC and a definite caramel smell. It's a medium textured body coupled with a full vanilla flavor and a bit of nutmeg bite; 40% of the blend it is aged in used U.S. oak barrels and contains more barley malt than CC. Longer, drier finish.

• Classic 12:

The No. 2 seller in the CC line, this 80-proof 12-year-old is blended before aging, with 60% of it coming from U.S. barrels. Deep amber in color, soft and lightly floral in aroma, it has a creamy texture rich in oak and vanilla plus a floral honey. Light, long finish.

• Canadian Club Sherry Cask:

The smallest seller in the line also is my favorite, hands down. It's an 82.6-proof gem made in limited quantities, aged at least eight years in white oak barrels and then double matured in sherry casks imported from the Harvey's facility in Spain, which is owned by the same company as CC. It's a deep antique bronze that is very inviting, as is the aroma redolent of cherries, figs and sherry. Dates and figs continue the fruitiness of the taste in a body that is at once light and creamy, with a light, clean finish.

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Level Vodka

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In a world of graphic advertising images, the one created for Level vodka is one of the most captivating -- right up there with the likes of Bombay Sapphire Gin's original glass designs. But, there's a lot more to this super premium niche vodka made by Sweden's Absolut and introduced to the market in 2004.

• Level Vodka:

A faint, pleasant note of lemon emanates from this winter wheat vodka as soon as the bottle is open. It's clean from first sniff to final swallow, something that can't be said about some premium vodkas that have little hot flareups here and there.

Absolut pioneered a continuous distillation in the 1800s that today's Level benefits from. Rather than two, three, four even a half-dozen distillations to remove impurities that coarsen the mouth-feel and flavor of a vodka, Level goes through literally thousands of distillations in the Absolut process.

It also undergoes batch distillation, which is the traditional vodka method, that preserves an actual flavor in a spirit technically known as "colorless, odorless and tasteless," but which we all know isn't strictly true.

I rank Level right up there with the best, namely Chopin and Belvedere.

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Cold River Vodka

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This potato-based product of Maine is a marketing success story, dreamed up by brothers Lee and Donnie Thibodeau just three years ago and already with a demand that has gone beyond its New England roots.

• Cold River Vodka:

My preference in vodkas lies primarily with potato-based spirits. Despite the contentions of some people that there are no real differences between vodkas, there are. Maine has been known for centuries for its quality potatoes, and that and the pristine local water combine for a smooth, elegant product in Cold River.

The company also is smart enough to realize the demand for gluten-free drinks -- recognized primarily in the brewing industry so far -- is growing and makes a point of noting that, unlike grain-based vodkas, its vodka is gluten free.

My standard test for a vodka is to try it three ways: straight at room temperature, straight right out of the freezer, and in a basic vodka martini. Cold River works best, well, cold. Chilling seems to bring out some of the sweetness of the potato base, a nuance that holds up well to a splash of dry vermouth in a martini. A truly excellent product.

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Guavaberry Liqueur

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On the Caribbean isle of St. Martin/Sint Maarten, the indigenous guavaberry that centuries ago was turned into liquor by the Amer-Indian people is today distilled into a unique "folk liqueur."

• Wild Sint Maarten Guaveberry Liqueur:

Despite the name, the guavaberry (GWAH-va-BER-ry) has nothing to do with the guava fruit. The liqueur is made from oak-aged rum, cane sugar and the berries that grow wild in the warm hills in the center of the island on trees that are in the same family as the clove and eucalyptus. The fragile berries are difficult to cultivate and harvest.

My first experience with guavaberry liqueur was a colada served in a Philipsburg hotel bar on the Dutch side of the island (Sint Maarten; St. Martin is the French side). It's a deceptively smooth drink, reminiscent of blackberries and dark cherries, sweet but not overly so, thanks to the slightly woody, fruity, spicy taste of the liquor.

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