Sancerre 2006

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As with the previous posting, I tried this wine during a private dinner at Easter Elchies House on The Macallan Estate near Aberlour, Scotland. It is a good example of one of the better Loire Valley whites, although the Sancerre region of France also produces respectable reds and rosés that are eminently drinkable.

• Sancerre 2006

This white Sancerre comes from the sauvignon blanc grape (the reds and rosés are made from pinot noir). It's semi-dry and slightly astringent, a fresh, fruity white with vegetal notes that went well with our consomme and smoked salmon starters.

I found it a well rounded wine, with notes of citrus, melon and pistachio and a pleasantly long finish. It's at its peak right now, since such wines shouldn't be cellared more than a few years.

Retails from about $22.

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Château Tour De Biot 2004

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This wine from a little-known house in Bordeaux has been created by fourth-generation owner Gilles Gremen in La Roquille since 1987. Before he took over, the wines went to a local co-operative rather than being bottled under its own name. I sampled this wine during a private dinner at Easter Elchies House on The Macallan Estate near Aberlour, Scotland.

• Château Tour De Biot 2004

This Bordeaux is a blend of 60% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, and 10% cabernet franc.

The flavor is round, rich and bold with stone fruit flavors -- plum, cherry. Soft tannins and a lingering finish with a hint of cinnamon.

It is one of the region's better bargain wines, retailing for about $11.

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Campo Viejo Crianza 2005

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This bargain wine comes from Spain's La Rioja region. The Juan Alcorta Winery is located on a hill overlooking the Ebro Valley. It has underground aging space for 70,000 oak barrels and 6 million bottles.

•  Campo Viejo Crianza 2005

This blend of tempranillo, harnacha and mazuelo grapes is aged 24 months, half of that time in oak barrels. Its a classis rioja, ruby red in color and silky oak notes throughout.

The result is some cherry and restrained spice in the nose, then black cherry and plum notes dominate. Some blackberry and hints of floral are evident.

Retails for $8 - $10.

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Chateau Lafayette Reneau

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Bob Reno has been making wine under this label in New York's Finger Lakes for nearly a quarter-century. For most of that time, he's been regarded as one of the best.

• Chateau Lafayette Reneau Cuvee Rouge

This non-vintage blend is made from vinifera and French-American hybrid grapes, which is Reno's strong suit.

It holds its own against a platter of varied cheeses -- for example, smoked gouda, English cheddar dotted with shallots and garlic, and creamy Danish havarti -- but would do just as well with subtler tastes or grilled meats. It's very fruit forward, with lots of berry and cherry notes.

From its beautiful light ruby coloring to its lingering, slightly acidic finish, this is a bargain delight that retails for under $10.

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Baojing 168 Vodka

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In something so idealistic, at least in theory, as the "People's Republic," it might seem frivolous to filter a vodka through diamonds. But modern China is trying to compete on the world market in every way, and delicious excess might as well be one of them.

• Baojing 168 Vodka:

This grain-based import differs from others of its ultra-premium ilk in that, say its distillers, it is created in a small-batch fashion and undergoes "unique filtration through 168 carats of diamonds."

I'm not sure if that is a whole bunch of little diamonds, or even diamond dust, or one gigantic fat rock. I do know the number 168 is regarded in Chinese custom as "being on the road to infinite prosperity."

That aside, how does it taste? Excellent. Clean, crisp, ever so slightly aromatic of vegetal notes. There's a hint of lemon about the middle notes, and a clean, slow finish.

Retails for about $38 for the 750ml bottle.

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Glenmorangie Astar

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This is the newest ultra-premium whisky in the Glenmorangie portfolio. I had the opportunity to sample it during a "kaleidoscope tasting" session in Louisville, KY, with Dr. Bill Lumsden, head of distilling and whisky creation for the Scottish company.

• Glenmorangie Astar

"Astar" is Gaelic for "journey," an apt title for this new expression since it takes the senses on quite a ride.

There is a surprising burst of white chocolate in the initial nose, along with some pineapple and menthol. With water, more spices plus hints of balsamic and coconut flavors play around the edges with touches of toast.

Then, a chardonnay-type grapefruit note emerges, along with the house characteristic -- a menthol/eucalyptic top note.

Although this whisky is very spicy, there is no unpleasant bite. Nuttiness, vanilla, creme brulee all come to mind.

I find this the closest thing to bourbon in the Glenmorangie portfolio.

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McGregor Vineyards Black Russian Red

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No, this isn't a variation on the Black Russian cocktail. It's a superb red blend from New York's Finger Lakes region.

• McGregor Vineyards Black Russian Red

We're about due for the latest vintage of McGregor’s acclaimed Black Russian Red, but it will be difficult to top the 2004 edition, much sought-after and sold-out (only 150 cases were made). The 2005 vintage also is quite good.

The iconic wine is the only such blend made in America, an unusual joining of two European grape varietals: Sereksiya Charni, traditionally grown in Romania but grown exclusively in the U.S. by McGregor, and Saperavi, an ancient wine grape originating in the republic of Georgia.

The hand-harvested grapes are fermented and aged for nearly two years in American oak barrels, resulting in a complex dry red, with notes of numerous berries, black cherry and the oak, tannic and dry.

The 2005 vintage retails for about $60.

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King's Crest 25 Year Old

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This blend comes from The Speyside, one of Scotland's smallest distilleries but plenty big on attitude when it comes to comparing itself to the market niche leaders. I tried this selection at recent Whisky Live event in Manhattan.

• King’s Crest 25 Year Old Blended Scotch:

I found this lovely blend, priced like Johnnie Walker Blue Label (see previous entry) upwards of $200 a bottle, a worthy competitor.

In fact, it might even be considered slightly superior in the peaty, hazlenut flavors that removed all traces of any unpleasant heat.

While its purveyors like to trumpet the result of the master blender's work, the company will say only that "We believe our King's Crest has become a legend in it's own right. But what makes a legend? For our master blender it is the combination of several elements, however he is very reticent to disclose them."

It can be disclosed that the maltiness, the vanillas and caramels, the hint of pineapple and citrus notes indicate a very complex and satisfying whisky.

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Johnnie Walker Blue Label

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The products from the Johnnie Walker distillery in Kilmarnock, Ayrshire, Scotland, are the most widely distributed brands of Scotch whisky in the world, with yearly sales of over 120 million bottles. I most recently re-tried its top-shelf Blue Label at Whisky Live in Manhattan.

• Johnnie Walker Blue Label Scotch:

Blue Label truly has an old style set of characteristics, and since it is a non-vintage blend of 16 or so whiskies it is difficult to pinpoint the heart of it even though it is widely known to be Royal Lochnagar, a rare malt. Every bottle is numbered and placed in a silk-lined box with a certificate of authenticity.

It is at once nutty, pungent and peppery, with floral notes in the nose and initial hit on the palate as well. The traditional smokiness, accompanied by clear notes of caramel and vanilla, help make it a complex offering that is obviously superior in overall character to most others in its price range.

Retails for about $200.

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Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2003

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Cotes du Rhone wines are big, bold and meaty, perfect for a flatiron prime beef luncheon I had with Dale Miller, one of those rare Certified Master Chefs, and newly-appointed executive chef and general manager of the stately Inn at Erlowest on picturesque Lake George, NY.

• Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2003

This is a French red as big as its formal name: 2003 Château de Beaucastel Côtes du Rhône Coudoulet de Beaucastel. It's a blend of mourvédre, grenache, cinsault and syrah grapes, unfiltered and bursting at the seams with flavor.

I particularly like the fact that the bouquet keeps opening once poured, enhancing the notes of leather, pepper and ripe fruit. It complemented not only the sliced flatiron prime, but the vegetable terrine, grilled asparagus and roasted fingerling potatoes it accompanied at the luncheon. A splash of the wine added to the steak juice reduction tied it all together.

Retails for about $34.

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Yamazaki Single Malts

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Forget the traditional stance, that Scotch whisky can be made only in Scotland. Japan's Suntory distillers are making deeper and deeper inroads into the booming Asian Scotch market and trying to get U.S. consumers to pay attention as well.

• Yamazaki 12- and 18-year-old Single Malts:

Sampling whiskies on their own is one thing. Sampling them in a venue crowded with competitors is another. I gained a stronger appreciation for Suntory's offerings when trying them at the recent Whisky Fest 2008 in Manhattan where they were offered cheek-to-jowel with several dozen others labels.

The Yamazaki 18 earned the platinum medal (97 points) in 2006 from the Beverage Testing Institute as a follow-up to its double gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition the previous year. It's a complex, smooth and creamy single malt that smacks of floral notes balanced off by hints of fig, dark chocolate and burnt sugar. I found it something I wanted to immediately go off with to savor.

The 12 year old expression, a 93-point Beverage Testing Institute gold medalist, has an almost ethereal presence, touched by notes of honey, flowers, a bit of peat and anise, and then complementing elements of spiciness and toastiness from the mizunara -- Japanese oak.

The 18 retails in the $90 range and the 12 for about $40.

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Bulleit Bourbon

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The flask-style bottle is eye-catching, the flavor of the amber liquid inside palate-catching, and it's all based on a 175-year-old family history and recipe, according to Hollis Bulleit, daughter of company head Tom Bulleit and the current-generation family rep I recently spoke with at Whisky Fest 2008 in Manhattan.

• Bulleitt Bourbon

The recipe for this small-batch premium bourbon calls for 28% rye, slightly higher than many competitors', which adds to the dryness and spiciness in both nose and taste, as do the proprietary yeasts and grains. (The company has its own "grain division.")

The final 90 proof expression is the result of at least six years' aging and the usual maturation in charred white oak barrels, but mingles several different distillates. It is pleasantly smoky, with distinct underlying notes of honey and vanilla and a long, clean finish.

Retails in the $25-$35 range.

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Fourplay No. 1

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Confession time: I had not tried Fourplay wine before experiencing this estate-bottled example of Sicilian blending. I'm sorry I was so late getting to the party.

• Fourplay No. 1 2003

The name itself is cause for conversation, but once the usual comments are exhausted the wine itself is grist for dicsussion.

The beautifully balanced blend of equal parts Nero d'Avola, Frappato Nero, Nerello Cappuccio and Nerello Mascalese native grapes from the southern tip of Sicily is something that doesn't come along every day.

Rich with stone fruit flavors -- plum and black cherry equally bold on the tongue -- this particular vintage at 13% ABV will work equally well with sharp cheeses, acidic tomato sauces or bold roasted meats. Or, feel free to simply pour a glass, admire the ruby color and sip to your heart's content.

Retails in the $15 range (slightly less for 2004, 2005 vintages).

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Ardmore Traditional Cask

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This Highland malt whisky was introduced in the U.K. and duty free shops just last year, and this month went on sale in limited quantities in the U.S. It comes from the same company that has made Teacher's blended Scotch whisky for more than a century.

• Ardmore Traditional Cask

This beautiful deep golden whisky has a full nose, but is not overwhelming. If anything, it doesn't completely telegraph the rich, peaty flavor that initially hits the tongue. A bit of vanilla and caramel comes through, a legacy of the whisky's initial maturation in used American white oak bourbon barrels.

A splash of water tames the smokiness and further opens the flavor palette to reveal some spice notes from the second maturation in quarter casks (110 liter), a little more caramel and a very gentle mix of vanilla and peat. On the nose, the dry, earthiness of the smoke comes through to marry all the flavors.

I highly recommend this fine visitor from Aberdeenshire.

Retails in the $45-$50 range.

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Jacob's Creek Shiraz Cabernet

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In 1847, Orlando wines founder Johann Gramp planted one of the first vineyards along Jacob's Creek in the Barossa Valley of South Eastern Australia. The name of the creek has become synonymous with quality wines.

• Jacob's Creek Shiraz Cabernet 2004

This is a fine blend -- 53% shiraz and 47% cabernet sauvignon -- that provides notes of tobacco, leather and oak along with forthright plum and berry nuances.

I like the medium-bodied structure that makes this a good choice to accompany a bold cheese platter (smoked gouda, sharp cheddar and tangy gorgonzola on the one I put together to go with this wine), chicken or pasta dishes, and even some red meat dishes that aren't too heavily sauced.

Retails in the $7-$9 bargain range.

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Bin 444 Cabernet Sauvignon

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Wyndham Estate is one of the better establishments in the rich South Eastern Australia wine producing region. Bin 444 is one of a number of well-respected labels from this 180-year-old winery.

• Bin 444 Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

This is a fruit-forward wine, rich in berry and stone fruit notes from initial nose to smooth, lingering finish.

It is a classic cab in that its taste lives up to the promise of its deep, rich color. A well-balanced touch of tartness keeps the fruit fresh and makes this an excellent selection to pair with rich meats and heavy pasta dishes. I'm glad I cellared it for seven years because it now is at its peak drinkability.

Retails for about $10.

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2005 Hugel Cuvée Les Amours Pinot Blanc

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Alsatian-style wines are growing in popularity worldwide. However, the originals usually are just as good when it comes to value-for-price. This import by Frederick Wildman & Sons Ltd. of New York is one such instance.

• 2005 Hugel Cuvée Les Amours Pinot Blanc

One of many things that stood out when I toured the Alsace region of France several years ago was the longevity of family-owned wineries. This is a prime example. Twelve generations of the Hugel family -- in an unbroken line since 1639 -- have been turning out quality wines.

This is a creamy, dry white with a touch of acid balanced by notes of honey, pear, apple and spices along with the typical mineral quality. It is perfect with Asian, pasta or light seafood dishes.

Retails for about $16.

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Tres Rios Tequila Reposado

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This brand is being fronted by Motley Crue rocker Vince Neil. Since I don't know Mr. Neil personally, why the company thinks that sort of advertising would induce me or anyone to buy a particular brand escapes me. However, I ignored that and evaluated the aged version on its own merits.

• Tres Rios Tequila Reposado

Last March, this 80-proof tequila scored a bronze medal at the prestigious San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Not a gigantic honor, but a respectable start.

Likewise, I found it a very respectable reposado. Its perfumey nose smacks of its four months in oak barrels, with a slight smokiness mixing with its vanilla and apricot notes. Over a pair of ice cubes, Tres Rios opens quickly, revealing pungent middle notes and a soft finish on the throat.

Retail price is about $50.

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Bloomer Creek Reserve White

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Bloomer Creek Vineyards, located in Hector, NY, was founded in 1999 by Kim Engle, a veteran winery manager, and his wife, artist Debra Bermingham, and went into full production in 2004. I tried this wine with an elaborate luncheon prepared by noted Indonesian chef Yono Purnomo, owner of Yono's restaurant in Albany, NY.

• Bloomer Creek Vineyard 2006 Reserve White

This was my first intentional sampling of this product of New York's Finger Lakes region. I say "intentional" because each year I help judge the New York Wine & Food Classic and I had come across this exact wine in blind tastings that resulted in it winning "Best of Class: Blended White Wine" in the 2007 event.

This experience was just as positive. Engle's offering is an Alsatian-style Riesling blend that is at once fruity and pleasantly acidic. In other words, a Riesling that doesn't take itself too seriously but pleases nonetheless.

Kiwi, peach and a touch of pineapple come through in the middle range, and the lingering impression paired well with the Indonesian fare I consumed along with the wine: a boldly-sauced sauteéd pork tenderloin, spicy shrimp and a noodle dish with chicken, shrimp and vegetables all were beautifully complemented by the wine.

Retails for about $12.

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Sub Rosa vodkas

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Limited production and limited distribution may be the only thing keeping these vodkas from being the Next Big Thing. They're made by Mike Sherwood of Sub Rosa Spirits in rented facilities in Oregon. Each is 90 proof and infused with fresh herbs and spices, creating true flavors and natural colors.

• Sub Rosa Tarragon

The licorice-like tang of the fresh tarragon is at once evident in both the pale green color and the fragrant nose, but a hint of mint quickly creeps in, making me think of a variety of other things to blend with the vodka for some offbeat cocktails: light rum, pomegranate, fresh lemon juice ...

• Sub Rosa Saffron

Sherwood says he uses eight spices in this infusion, which begins moving it into the gin category. The pale yellow color catches the eye and complements the lemony flavor of coriander as well as the bite of peppers and ginger. Then, the sweetness of saffron and muskiness of cumin play off each other and cry out for citrus juices -- orange, lemon, lime -- to become part of a cocktail.

While I enjoyed the Tarragon Vodka, the Saffron expression outdoes it in complexity and possibilities.

Suggested retail price for each: $29.95.

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Chapoutier Belleruche Cote de Rhone

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This French offering was selected by Diane Pedinotti, a perennial Wine Spectator award winner for the wine lists at her two Saratoga Springs, NY, restaurants -- Mouzon House and One Caroline Street Bistro. Husband David, the executive chef, had put together a rustic French luncheon for us -- duck cassoulet, sweet potato tart and lamb lollipops -- to go with the wine.

• Chapoutier Belleruche Cote de Rhone

It's not surprising to find a pleasing wine from France's Rhone Valley. They've been making wine there for more than 2,000 years and the appelation has been around since 1937.

This is a pleasantly rich, berry-heavy blend of syrah and grenache grapes that went well with Pedinotti's rich fare. The winemaker urges pairing this particular wine with grilled or roast meats, especially lamb. After sampling it with the grilled lamb lollipops, I heartily concur.

The eye appeal of this well-structured wine is evident in its deep garnet color, followed by the aroma of cherries, then a touch of spice with soft tannins.

Retails in the $15 range.

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Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve

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This is the fourth blend in the Jameson Reserve line from Ireland's biggest whiskey exporter. It was launched last October, joining Jameson 12 Year Old Special Reserve, Jameson Gold Reserve and Jameson 18 Year Old Limited Reserve. My sample was dated January 18, 2008.

• Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve

When a whiskey/whisky is stamped with a "vintage," it requires careful attention. Like wine vintages, the same label may adorn very different products over a span of years. Thus, this latest addition to the Jameson Reserve line no doubt will taste different from one year to the next because it is a blend of older grain whiskies (over 20 ) plus pure pot still whiskey with both unmalted and malted barleys.

In addition, some of the Rarest Vintage Reserve was matured in used bourbon casks and some in port casks. It's a 92 proof blend. The company regards them as "the oldest and rarest whiskies" stored at the distillers' facility near Cork.

What all this boils down to is a brilliant whiskey: crystal clear, understated at first with slight touches of lavendar and vanilla, middle notes that reveal the mixed cask heritage by laying a hint of spice on the tongue, and a smooth, almost ethereal, finish.

The suggested U.S. retail price is $250, if you can find it at all. Only 1,300 three-litre cases were produced for this first vintage.

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Ron Zacapa Rum 23 yo

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I first came across the Zacapa brand while judging the inaugural International Cane Spirits Competition in Tampa, FL, in 2006. The company just signed a deal with international beverage giant Diageo for its products to be marketed and distributed globally. After three years, Diageo will get to buy a 50% equity share of the brand.

• Ron Zacapa Rum 23 yo

The Zacapa rum range includes Zacapa Centenario 15, Zacapa Centenario 23 and Zacapa Centenario XO. I'm partial to this expression which I voted to gold medal status in the International Cane Spirits Competition.

It's an "Irish whiskey style" of rum, nicely balanced between cask aging in used American oak barrels and alcoholic level (40%, or 80 proof). The dark amber color provides eye appeal. Butterscotch notes prevail, and the rum is smooth from first sip to lengthy finish.

The usual retail price is in the $50 range for the 750ml bottle.

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Flowers Pinot Noir

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I tasted this Sonoma Coast red at a rustic buffet meal -- roast chicken, grilled vegetables, salad vinaigrette, honey-topped spaghetti squash -- prepared by Larry Schepici, chef-owner of Tosca Grille, the Illium Cafe and La Marché Vert, all in Troy, NY.

• Flowers Pinot Noir 2006:

This is a bold yet nuanced California red, with intense raspberry and stone fruit flavors evident from the first sniff.

It's a product of Walt and Joan Flowers' winery where wines wirh a crisp acidity and full, lingering tastes are produced. I found it more than held its own throughout a meal that ranged from savory roast chicken to sharp vinaigrettes and pleasantly charred veggies hot off the grill.

Hints of pepper, violet and spices give way to supple tannings with touches of anise and toast. Should continue to mature in the bottle for the next few years,

Retail price runs all over the place, from $49.99 to $58.

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Domaine de Canton Ginger Vodka

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This liqueur, created years ago on the French Indo-China ginger root estate of Domaine de Canton in what became Vietnam, won "best in show" award at the 2007 World Beverage Competition, the largest such event in the world.

• Domaine de Canton Ginger Cognac:

This 80-proof VSOP cognac is infused with baby ginger, which comes through immediately in the zesty nose.

The ginger-pepper taste relaxes a bit after the bottle is open for a while, but always reminds one of those warm ginger snaps fresh from the oven. The straw-yellow color, slight acidity, bittersweet flavoring components and tangy aftertaste make for a very unusual, refreshing liqueur.

It retails at selected stores for about $30. To find a vendor, go here. And, go here for a look at another ginger-infused drink, this one a domestic vodka.

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Handicapping a Bourbon Derby

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I convened a large group of bourbon fanciers to take over a tavern in Saratoga Springs, NY, and spend the evening sampling a range of the golden-amber whiskies. Here were the results.

• Basil Hayden: This was a nice starter. Mild enough not to deaden the palate for the later samplings. It's one of the popular Jim Beam Brands "small batch bourbons" and a good starting point for those people curious about bourbons but under the misapprehension that one sip will knock you head-over-teakettle. It's a light, clear distillation with slightly citrus overtones, a pale amber look and mild aroma.

• Hancock's: This single-barrel whiskey (which means it is not a blend of several barrels) has a somewhat sweet taste, making it perfect for mixed drinks. One taster said it had "almost a clove taste," another that it was "a tad strong and sour." It got its highest marks for color and aroma.

• Woodford Reserve: Here we began nudging above the 90-proof brands. This one attacked the palate with its not-unpleasant hints of leather and tobacco. "Too much going on!" said one judge. However, "That is beautiful," said another while holding his glass up to the light. Two sips later he compared the taste to that of diet soda. Several found the aroma flat after the initial leather/tobacco experience, but two others liked the lingering finish. Everyone loved the look of it and the mellow aftertaste.

• Elijah Craig: Here we were into the 18-year-old stuff, although still at around 90 proof. "It's amazing what age does to a bourbon," remarked one judge. "Great when sipped slowly," said another. Most thought the aroma complex with many diverse scents -- vanilla, caramel, spice. Finished on top of the field in three categories: clarity, aroma and smoothness.

• Pappy Van Winkle's: This 90-proof 20-year-old was much touted by our barkeep, but didn't fare as well with some of the judges. The good comments: "Sweet, woody finish." "Could be a winner for some." "The color is perfect." The bad: "A bit sharp and fruity." "Too much bite." "Far too pungent an aroma; works against the taste all the way."

• Booker's: This unfiltered 120.5-proof whiskey is bold in color, aroma and taste. Its powerful taste and high alcohol content can smother other tastes, so it's best to have it as an after-dinner drink with a splash of water. (Contrary to what you may think, adding a bit of water to a fine bourbon only lengthens the lingering aftertaste, rather than diluting it.) "It has a strong initial bite that levels out just a bit. The bite shouldn't be confused with the fact that it is very smooth," said one judge. "Makes me want to dance," said another who, it should be noted, did not.

When the scores were counted up, Elijah Craig (109.2 points) was the winner by a fairly wide margin over Pappy Van Winkle's (101.5) and Booker's (100.5). The bottom three were Hancock's (94.5), Basil Hayden (86.5) and Woodford Reserve (82.4).

Of course, given the Elijah Craig place in history that gives credit to the Rev. Mr. Craig for creating bourbon, just being selected to be in the same competition with it is an honor.

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Hendrick's Gin

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The folks at the Hendrick's distillery in Ayrshire, Scotland, really try to emphasize that their gin is not for everyone. "Loved by a select few" is its byword. I count myself as part of that group.

• Hendrick's Gin:

Gin sampling, in my experience, involves the nose as much as the palate. While each gin has a juniper berry and alcohol base, the recipes can vary greatly. Some -- Bombay Sapphire being the most prominent example -- put their ingredients right on the label. Others -- Plymouth, for example -- rigorously guard their old, old recipes.

Hendrick's, bottled at a slightly-higher-than-average 88 proof, likes to talk about the obvious: cucumbers and rose petals. Both are obvious in the initial nose and throughout the tasting.

Hendrick's manufacturing process may have as much to do with its gin as do its ingredients. It has one of only four existing Carter-Head stills in the world. It was built in 19th century London and was restored to its original condition. The distillers explain that instead of boiling ingredients, the Carter-Head "bathes" them in vapors to foster a very slow buildup.

No matter how they do it, Hendrick's comes out as a beautiful gin, the fresh taste of cucumber helping create perhaps the cleanest dry martini I've ever experienced, but gentle enough to be pleasant merely over a few ice cubes.

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Bushmills 1608

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When Bushmills celebrates next year the 400th anniversary of being awarded its license to distill by King James I, it will be doing it with a very special whiskey. This particular commemorative was made using something known as "crystal malt." I was able to get an advance tasting.

• Bushmills 1608:

I'm admittedly partial to Bushmills and Black Bush, a pair of very easy to drink Irish whiskies from the iconic Northern Ireland distillery's line. This, the sixth style but in limited quantities, will be on sale in the U.S. only from February through December next year. After that it will be available only at the distillery store.

Bushmills 1608 is a worthy special blend. The crystal malt -- which has a crystallized appearance when germinated, and thus still moist, barleycorns are lightly toasted -- introduces a sweet, toffee note to the final product. Also in the mix are notes from the classic Bushmills malt whiskies matured in a combination of used American white oak and Spanish Oloroso sherry casks.

Bushmills whiskies in general tend toward the sweet side of the palate, and 1608 doesn't diverge from that path: vanilla, honey and toffee notes are prevalent, and the finish reminds me of a high-grade dark chocolate.

All these elements work well with the slightly higher than average potency -- 46% alcohol by volume, or 92 proof. The suggested retail price is $100.

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Mark West Pinot Noir

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At the Mark West Winery in California, "Pinot for the People" is the slogan and "We have no land. We have no vineyards. We have no winery." is the manifesto. This is one of those companies that buys grapes from various growers, has winemaker Alex Cose blend them to produce a couple of nice pinot noirs, and sells them cheap. Does it work? As co-owner Sandy Pogue of the French-style gourmet bistro The Epicurean in Brunswick, NY, told me the other day, "It's my best-selling red. Sometimes it's almost too easy to sell."

• Mark West Pinot Noir 2005:

This mostly California Central Coast wine is the company's hot seller of the moment, a blend that includes 13% syrah and 2% chardonnay. The result is a deep ruby color, and a madcap array of fragrances in the bouquet, most prominent that of pomegranates, bacon, cola, some spice, and lots of lush fruit.

Aging in oak adds the nuances of toast and wood. I like the light, silky mouthfeel and the fairly long finish that makes this both a meal wine and a relax-by-the-fireplace wine.

Retails in the $11 range.

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True North vodkas

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Grand Traverse Distillery, founded by Kent Rabish in 2005, had targeted autumn of 2008 to introduce its first flavored vodka. However, the Michigan company beat that goal by many months with its new cherry infusion.

• True North Vodka:

The original Grand Traverse product is a quality addition to the super-premium category, so much so that it was awarded a gold medal by the 2007 International Review of Spirits.

It's a smooth, silky spirit, which is a "must" quality to be in this category. The combination of good northern Michigan rye and the region's quality water gives this Traverse City distillery a leg up. I found a slight bit of pleasing heat along with the smoothness, thereby imparting a bit of extra character that holds up through the triple-filtration process.

• True North Natural Cherry Flavor Vodka:

If Grand Traverse had selected any other fruit for its initial flavoring it would have been laughed out of a state known for the quality and abundance of its cherry crop, a crop so integral to the region that it calls itself the Cherry Capital of the World.

The trick here is that instead of merely infusing the rye-based vodka with cherries, there is a hint of chocolate as well. That's one more credit to Rabish's creation that helps differentiate it from the pack of fruit flavor-infused vodkas with which it is competing. I found the richness of this concoction at once both arresting and satisfying.

Both vodkas carry a suggested retail price of $29.99.

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White Springs Gewürtztraminer

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This gewürtz is from a relatively new winery located in Geneva, NY, on Seneca Lake. The facility was founded in 2003 by Carl Fribolin. This sample from winemaker Derek Wilber is from vineyards that produced their first full crop this harvest.

• White Springs Finger Lakes 2006 Gewürtztraminer:

This wine, made from estate grown grapes, is described as “highly fragrant,” but I didn’t pick up on that. I found the nose faint and the flavor gentle but pleasant.

It is not a big gewürtz by any means, but would pair well with creamy cheeses, vinaigrette-dressed salads, nuts and even mild smoked fishes.

It retails for $14.99.

It is interesting to compare this wine to a Rooster Hill Estate Gewürtztraminer 2006 made from grapes harvested only two days earlier at nearby Keuka Lake, showing the mini-terroirs of the lakes region.

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Sheldrake Point dessert riesling

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Sheldrake Point is located on a jut of glacial soil extending into Cayuga Lake near Ithaca, NY. This example of winemaker Dave Breeden's work sprang from a lucky infestation of botryitis that concentrated the riesling grapes into fruit ideal for this dessert-style wine.

• Sheldrake Point Bunch Select Riesling 2006:

Only 100 cases of this delicious wine were made in 2006. It's not made every year -- in fact, Sheldrake has five different rieslings but doesn't make each one each year. The wine comes from all vinifera plantings.

I'm not particularly attracted to overly sweet wines, but the 6% residual sugar in this bunch select wine is nicely balanced with the acid to form a very drinkable wine that does not necessarily need to be used as a food accompaniment. Well chilled, it would be a perfect after-dinner finisher on its own.

Notes of honey, melon and the luscious riesling itself all come through in a perfectly-made product that retails for $19.99.

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Rooster Hill Gewürtztraminer

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I was able to do a side-by-side comparison of this bold gewürtz with a milder style from an adjoining part of New York's Finger Lakes, which shows how both differences in winemaking as well as the effects of the lakes region's micro-climates can make a big difference.

• Rooster Hill Estate Gewürtztraminer 2006:

This is a single-vineyard wine from the Keuka Lake complex, the second crop off these particular vines that were planted in 2003.

The floral nose quickly gives way to a complex set of flavors offering apple, pineapple and more florals. Winemaker Barry Tortolon used two different yeasts to emphasize the floral aroma as well as the long taste.

This is a well-balanced wine with a 3.21 ph and just 1.8 residual sugar, with 11.7% alcohol. This wine, which retails for $15.99, will work well with multi-flavored meals or as a standalone wine.

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Lakewood Vineyards Port

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True port is, of course, a product of Portugal. But, where there's a will there's a way, as we can see from the efforts of this fourth-generation Stamp family farm and winemaking operation on Seneca Lake near Watkins Glen, NY.

• Lakewood Vineyards 2005 Port:

This is the fourth edition of the Lakewood port made from very ripe, partially raisined baco noir grapes. Previous harvests in 1998, 1999 and 2001 were well received by consumers, but this one may be the best of the bunch.

From the classically-designed bottle to the deep red color and heady aroma of the wine, this is an impressive port. The nose is obvious of raspberries, but currants and darker fruit elements meander through the taste. I can see this port holding up to strong cheeses -- gorgonzola, cheddar -- if used with a dessert plate. I can just as easily imagine curling up in front of the fireplace and sipping it on its own.

The '05 port retails for a bargain $14.99.

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Chateau Frank Blanc de Noirs

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Quality wines are expected from the Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars operation that twice (2001, 2006) has been named New York's "Winery of the Year." This bubbly was originally developed by the late Willy Frank, son of Konstantin and father of the current owner, Fred.

• Chateau Frank 2000 Blanc de Noirs:

Pinpoint bubbles and notes of green apple and kiwi mark this "methode champenoise" that was bottled in 2000 from recently-disgorged wine.

It was made strictly from red-skinned estate fruit grown during a classic season -- 90% pinot noir and 10% pinot meunier, a pair of classic champagne grapes.

This is a fine example of a domestic champagne-style wine -- well structured, lengthy and bold -- that can be served with confidence and pride. It retails for $29.99.

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