Fourplay No. 1

Bill Dowd photo

Confession time: I had not tried Fourplay wine before experiencing this estate-bottled example of Sicilian blending. I'm sorry I was so late getting to the party.

• Fourplay No. 1 2003

The name itself is cause for conversation, but once the usual comments are exhausted the wine itself is grist for discussion.

The beautifully balanced blend of equal parts Nero d'Avola, Frappato Nero, Nerello Cappuccio and Nerello Mascalese native grapes from the southern tip of Sicily is something that doesn't come along every day.

Rich with stone fruit flavors -- plum and black cherry equally bold on the tongue -- this particular vintage at 13% ABV will work equally well with sharp cheeses, acidic tomato sauces or bold roasted meats. Or, feel free to simply pour a glass, admire the ruby color and sip to your heart's content.

Retails in the $15 range (slightly less for 2004, 2005 vintages).

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