Maestro Dobel Diamond Tequila

Bill Dowd photo

Juan-Domingo "Dobel" Beckmann, sixth-generation tequila maker now heading most parts of the Jose Cuervo empire, not only has introduced a new vodka to the market, he's apparently hoping it also ushers in a new category -- diamond vodka -- to go with the traditional styles. It is being released this month in selected American markets, and I had the opportunity for an advance tasting.

• Maestro Dobel Diamond Tequila

This is a pleasing blend of differently aged tequilas -- blanco/silver, reposado and añejo/aged. Beckmann and his tequila "maestros," Marco Anguiano and Luis Yerenas, are calling their product "the world's first-ever diamond tequila."

But what, precisely, is a "diamond" tequila?

The company's PR people say you should judge it as you do a diamond, by the four C's. In diamonds that is color, cut, clarity and carat weight. In vodka, they say, the four C's are clarity, complexity, craftsmanship and crispness. So, that's the way I looked at Maestro Dobel.

Clarity? It is, like virtually any vodka, crystal-clear.

Complexity? Good, since it is a clever blend of three types of tequila.

Craftsmanship? Good, no doubt about it, and its packaging is superb -- an attractive metal-based bottle, heavy decanter-style stopper, raised glass agave plant design, raised-lettering silver and black label. That would seem to be overdoing it if it were a less expensive tequila that would be polished off rather quickly. But at its super-premium price point, this is more of a special occasion drink so the snazzy container will be appreciated longer.

Crispness? It comes through in a lightness of body, slight bite of citrus and floral notes. Either at room temperature or opened with a cube of ice in a sampling glass, Maestro Dobel is a pleasing product that has a warm, lengthy finish with ethereal hints of thyme, allspice and honey.

Suggested retail price: $75 for the 750ml bottle.

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