Golden Kaan Shiraz 2004

Bill Dowd photo

This shiraz comes from the Western Cape of South Africa, a good spot for the grape that makes up a large part of the country's national wine grape crop. After malolactic fermentation, the wine was matured in American oak barrels.

• Golden Kaan Shiraz 2004

This five-year-old label is beginning to create an international buzz, most recently being voted onto the list of top five international red wine brands in Germany.

I tried it with the sort of food the winemaker suggests -- bold red meats and creamy cheeses, in this instance an herb-crusted sirloin steak grilled over charcoal and accompanied by a garden salad dressed with creamy bleu cheese and extra chunks of the bold, ripe cheese.

He was right. From the fruity, bold nose through to the ripe tannins that soften the edges of the shiraz and make it a very drinkable wine, this is a bargain red I'd be glad to have again.

Marian Kopp, president of Golden Kaan Ltd., says, "We have a very clear goal for Golden Kaan in the USA. We want to become the leading South African wine brand. And the prospects for achieving that goal are good.”

I can't argue with that. At a suggested retail price of about $10, this particular example of Golden Kaan's craft is just right.

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