Lakewood Vineyards Port

Bill Dowd photo

True port is, of course, a product of Portugal. But, where there's a will there's a way, as we can see from the efforts of this fourth-generation Stamp family farm and winemaking operation on Seneca Lake near Watkins Glen, NY.

• Lakewood Vineyards 2005 Port:

This is the fourth edition of the Lakewood port made from very ripe, partially raisined baco noir grapes. Previous harvests in 1998, 1999 and 2001 were well received by consumers, but this one may be the best of the bunch.

From the classically-designed bottle to the deep red color and heady aroma of the wine, this is an impressive port. The nose is obvious of raspberries, but currants and darker fruit elements meander through the taste. I can see this port holding up to strong cheeses -- gorgonzola, cheddar -- if used with a dessert plate. I can just as easily imagine curling up in front of the fireplace and sipping it on its own.

The '05 port retails for a bargain $14.99.

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