Crustacés from Alsace

Bill Dowd photo

Any wine named "Crustacés" must have been made with seafood in mind. Add to that my appreciation for Alsatian white blends acquired during a trip through that region of France several years ago, and this was a must-taste.

• Dopff & Irion Alsace Crustacés 2003:

If the label includes crabs and shrimp to reinforce the name of the wine, there's only one thing to do: Grab a plateful of 12-to-15 count shrimp, chill the wine and try them together. I did, and success was achieved.

This Alsatian white blend is dry, fresh tasting, crisp and pairs ever-so-nicely with the sweetness of the shrimp and the bite of the horseradish-laced cocktail sauce. Notes of citrus zest, thyme and a vaguely mineral nuance make a complementary freshness to the wine. It's a good example of the Dopff & Irion line of wines created in the ancient city of Riquewihr.

René Dopff, who was a member of the French Resistance during World War II, took over the winery after the war, championing the "terroir" concept by naming each sector of his estate with different names to differentiate the types of grapes grown there: Les Murailles for the Riesling grapes, Les Sorcieres for the Gewurztraminer, Les Amandiers for the Muscat, and Les Maquisards for the Tokay Pinot Gris.

Suggested retail price: $11.

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