Old Pulteney Scotch Whisky

April Dowd photo

I had the opportunity to sample 17- and 21-year-old versions just being introduced to the United States market by this Scottish distiller. The 12-year-old has been selling here for years.

• 12-Year-Old:

A warm, smooth very balanced single malt. Sampling it sets up the palate very nicely for its older siblings, both of which are markedly different and not just because of aging.

• 17-Year-Old:

It has pronounced notes of caramel and vanilla, as one would expect, but overtones of honey, citrus and apple come through as well. Once cut with a few drops of water, the nose opened quite a lot, releasing floral esters.

• 21-year-old:

Drier and a touch spicier than the 17, and suspected there was a difference between the types of sherry casks used for each in addition to the ratio of whisky-to-wine barrels. Waring confirmed my suspicions, noting that olorosso casks are used for the 17 and fino for the 21. The 17-year-old is aged 90% in bourbon barrels and 10% in sherry. The 21-year-old is aged in 66% bourbon and 33% sherry. Both are bottled at 92 proof. The 21 provides what I refer to as "full tongue," a complete experience of all the elements the tongue can detect -- sweet, salty, bitter and sour. Caramel, chocolate, honey and a touch of smoke are evident, as are lower tannins than in the 17. The complexity of the flavor range makes it a perfect after-dinner drink.

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