Olivier LeFlaive Les Stilles Puligny - Montrachet

• The publication Le Revue du Vin de France regards Olivier Leflaive as one of Burgundy's best white Burgundy producers. The "les Sétilles" is a blend from vineyards in the villages of Puligny-Montrachet (60%) and Meursault (40%). 

Like all Bourgogne Blancs, this is a Chardonnay, but the differences in the expressions from this region are legion.

The LeFlaive is a lemony blend that, when nosed with some of the wine still on the tongue, begins releasing nuances of honey, butter and even cinnamon.

Its rather short, yet pleasant, finish makes it a better match to lighter dishes -- vegetarian items, chicken and mild fish; although, it held its own with sampling portions of garlicky frogs legs and buttery sweetbreads.

Suggested retail price:  $25.

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Woodford Reserve Maple Wood Finish Bourbon

Woodford Reserve is a classy example of American distilling. The Versailles, KY, company's standard bourbon is a potent (94.4 proof) whiskey with a powerful, tasty edge.

• Woodford Reserve Master's Collection Maple Wood Finish

Under Master Distiller Chris Morris, Woodford Reserve (once known as Labrot & Graham) has a strong commercial following. This new example of his Master's Collection will do nothing to harm that status. It is perhaps the best Woodford I've ever tasted.

Although I like Woodford in a cocktail, I find its finish a bit too sharp when tasted straight. The new wood finish of this version -- the industry's first bourbon to be finished in barrels made from toasted sugar maple wood after the standard aging in charred new white oak -- takes care of that, adding a sweet earthiness to both the nose and the finish: honey, spice and maple all creating a pleasing bouquet.

Suggested retail price: About $89.99.

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Cordier Chateau Plagnac 1997 Médoc

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The northern Médoc region of France is recognized as an excellent terroir, with its fine gravel soil that allows strong root growth. As part of the appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) of Bordeaux, its bold wines are noted for their longevity.

• Cordier Chateau Plagnac 1997 Médoc

Sometimes a wine gets lost in the cellar, under coats of dust and indifference. Sometimes they're well past their drinkability when re-discovered. Sometimes they're a pleasant surprise.

The creators of this red Bordeaux, a 60-40% blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, said at the time of its release "It has excellent balance  and flavor which makes it enjoyable when young." What they didn't say -- or perhaps couldn't reliably predict -- was that it is enjoyable at the ripe old age of 13.

I found this cru bourgeois on a long-neglected shelf in my cellar while looking for something with some body to sip with Constant Companion on a chilly evening this week. We both were pleased with the rich, ruby color and the bold, fruity nose. On the palate, notes of blackberry and plum joined together to lead the way to a long, dry finish.

If you can find a bottle of this '97, carpe vino.

Suggested retail price: About $25.

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Chateau Larose-Trintaudon 2004 Haut-Médoc

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The Haut-Médoc region in southwestern France is known as the grand classic of the six appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) sections of Bordeaux, a region known for its full-bodied wines. This vineyard's role began there late in the 17th Century when its first vines were planted.

• Chateau Larose-Trintaudon 2004 Haut-Médoc

This rich red wine is a strong representative of wines from its AOC. It is estate bottled (mis en bouteille chateau), a 60-40 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes, aged in French oak barrels.

The 2004 vintage was a particularly pleasing one for many such wines. It begins with a floral nose, which leads to a ripe, fruity classic, with notes of currants and blackberries. It holds up well with hearty casseroles or bold meaty sauces. A smooth, long-lasting finish makes it a wine to savor.

Suggested retail price: About $20.

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El Portillo 2008 Malbec

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Malbec, the once-lowly European blending grape that has become a star in the high-elevation vineyards of Argentina, is fast becoming a staple in the U.S. market. Bodegas Salentein, which produced this wine, is located in the fertile Uco Valley.

• El Portillo 2008 Malbec

I can't get enough Malbec, low-priced or premium. The bold, lush grape has emerged as a fruit most winemakers can handle nicely, and this estate-bottled example from Bodegas Salentien is no exception.

The initial aroma promises lush fruitiness, and the wine delivers it. Nuances of berries, bold hits of stone fruits -- ripe plums, black cherries -- and even a back-palate hint of leather make one long for a spicy stew, a slab of rare beef or something else to at once challenge and complement this hearty purple-red nectar.

Suggested retail price: $7.99.

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Château La Borne 2009 Bordeaux

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This chateau is located just north of Bourges, in central France which is part of the sprawling Bordeaux region.

• Château La Borne 2009 Bordeaux

I uncorked this estate-bottled Sauvignon not expecting much. No slight to the winery. It was just that its under-$5 retail price didn't strike me as promising a revelatory experience.

As it turned out, the experience was pleasant enough. This pale yellow Bordeaux offered light floral notes, and on the tongue provided wisps of citrus and melon. That makes it a decent representation of the genre, best enjoyed with a light salad, a cream soup or a fruit platter.

Suggested retail price: Under $5.

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BOE 2006 Social Club Red

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It seems almost unnecessary to state that the BOE wine label is not one of New York State's most widely known. The acronym stands for Brooklyn Oenology, a winery in the Williamsburg section of the borough that uses Long Island-grown grapes for its portfolio. It offers a Merlot, a Viognier, a Chardonnay and a variety of blends. This one one of the latter.

• BOE 2006 Social Club Red

This wide-ranging mix of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Syrah grapes -- exhausting just thinking about the juggling that must go on to get just an acceptable balance -- turns out to be a pleasingly successful blend.

The tartness of blackberry and tobacco notes is complemented by the stone fruit nuances -- plum and black cherry, predominantly, which helps it as a standalone wine. I also tried it as an accompaniment to a thick, spicy chili and it worked beautifully, with its Cab and Malbec lineage easily helping it handle the chili's touches of jalapeño, garlic, thyme and Himalayan salt.

Incidentally, BOE wines wear special artwork. Each style has a different label, original art created by artists living or working in Brooklyn.

Suggested retail price: About $14.99 for the 750ml bottle.

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Kouros Patras

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Greek wines don't immediately spring to my mind three-quarters of the year. But, when we get to the salad and grilled fish season, ahh, that's different. Here's a budget-conscious selection.

• 2006 Kouros Patras

My favorite Greek white wine has always been Kretikos, from the island of Crete which produces 20% of Greece's wine. Before it became more popular, I usually had to content myself with getting a crisp, chilled bottle in some place like Tarpon Springs, a Greek-settled fishing town just north of St. Petersburg, FL.

The blend of 70% Vilana and 30% other indigenous white grape varieties such as Thrapsathiri and Athiri was the perfect summer wine.

The 2006 Patras from the Kouros winery isn't quite in that class, but it's a perfectly serviceable expression of the rhoditis grape that grows in abundance in the Peloponnesian foothills of southern Greece.

Petras is a characteristic dry white, with a rich yellow color with green tints. Elements of lemon and apple immediately hit the palate. There's a brief but soft, rounded finish that makes this wine hold up to lightly-sauced poultry and seafood dishes.

Suggested retail price: About $10 for the 750ml bottle.

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Metropolitan Ready-Made Martinis

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Anyone who pays even the slightest bit of attention to the adult beverage industry knows the RTD niche -- ready to drink -- keeps growing. However, the expansion usually comes in flavored versions of existing drinks, or ready-made cocktails with lots of fruit flavors. Here's one that breaks the mold, from Mystique Brands LLC in Brooklyn, NY.

• Metropolitan Vodka Martinis

Talk about convenience. If you're planning on hosting a backyard cocktail party when the weather cooperates, what more could you want than a ready-made martini you can simply chill ahead of time, then peel off the cover and serve?

The cocktail is from the Metropolitan Martini Co., which launched its first RTDs back in 2006 in four flavors -- green apple, chocolate, cosmopolitan, and this one, the vodka martini.

They come in individual plastic martini glasses with peel-off covers -- which can be customized for you, your business or other organization. The vodka martini is a 60-proof drink; the others are 40 proof. The manufacturer packages them in two-martini tubes or cases of 24, which some shops are selling separately. They're made in Israel and distributed through Southern Wine & Spirits of America.

Oh, the taste?

I had dutifully chilled a couple of the RTDs as suggested by the maker. So, I peeled off the cover and stick-on label of one, and sipped.

Hot, rough-edged, utterly dreadful stuff. But, you get what you pay for. If your cookout guests aren't too picky maybe you can get away with it if the BBQ sauce is spicy enough.

Suggested retail price: $1.49 per cocktail.

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Van Gogh Blue Vodka

Van Gogh added this triple wheat vodka to its extensive portfolio at an interesting time -- when most competitors are adding flavored vodkas. Not that the Dutch distiller has ignored that. It recently added açai-blueberry and double espresso flavors.

• Van Gogh Blue Vodka
  
 Master distiller Tim Vos uses three different European wheats in creating this vodka in small batches at the Royal Dirkzwager distillery in Schiedam, Netherlands. The result? Well, if an uninfused vodka can be said to have layers, this one does.

Vos explains the wheat selections this way:

"In Holland, the wheat is cultivated near the Dutch coast and is, therefore, a bit salty and dry from the maritime influence. The harvest in France comes from the center of the country and possesses a sweeter profile. While in Germany, the wheat is grown inb an area where the water comes from the melted ice of a nearby mountain, providing the grain with a mineral taste."

The words "nuanced" and "creamy" come readily to mind when sipping Van Gogh Blue fresh from the freezer. In short, a pleasing mouthfeel, a velvety middle with no astringency or edgy alcohol, and a crisp finish.

It also held up nicely to a splash of dry vermouth as a martini on the rocks.

Suggested retail price: $29 for the 750ml bottle.

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King Family Vineyards Meritage 2007

The Virginia wine industry may fly under the radar when it comes to national attention, but the commonwealth has many fine wineries. This particular wine was the Governor's Cup winner, the top prize, in the recent 2010 Virginia Wine Expo in Richmond. Earlier, it earned double gold in the 2009 Monticello Cup.

• King Family Vineyards Meritage 2007

The deep garnet color arrests the eye. The first sip commands the taster's attention. The long, rich finish satisfies.

This blend is multi-layered, full fruited and bold. A blend of 56% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot, 16% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Malbec, it was aged in French oak for 18 months.

Thus, it has a very mixed heritage, a veritable melting pot of a wine. Immediate notes of plum, black cherry and raisins vie for dominance, but as it breathes additional toasty, smoky notes of clove and the wood emerge.

The silken, pleasingly clingy finish lingers just long enough to encourage another sip. A superb job by winemaker Matthieu Finot. Regretably, he and owner David King produced only 615 cases.

Suggested retail price: $25.95.

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Vermont Spirits Vodkas

There is no organic matter that cannot be used to make vodka. Thus, what Harry Gorman, the distiller for Duncan's Spirits of St. Johnsbury, VT, is producing makes great use of that fact and the fact that its home area has some very distinctive products.

• Vermont White and Vermont Gold

The White vodka is delivered with a distinctive white cow embossed on the rear panel of the tall, elegant, four-sided bottles imported from France. It's a small-batch 80-proof vodka, triple distilled from pure milk sugar, combined with local spring water, then run lightly through charcoal filters.

There is a vague citrus note to the opening nose, and a clean, crisp finish on the tongue and throat. Despite its base, it is lactose free.

The Gold, with a gold leaf on the reverse side, is distilled from 100% maple sap, an iconic Vermont ingredient, bottled at 80 proof.

The company rather grandly refers to it as "the single malt of vodka." Considering the differences in time and attention between vodka and singly malt whiskey, that's a bit much. However, using maple sugar differs from the use of grains -- from which 90% of vodka is made -- in that cooking the grain mash is what releases the sugar from the starches. Since maple syrup is sugar already released from starch, it could be argued that it already has undergone a superb natural release.

The Gold is a very smooth, warm and clean spirit, especially nice when stored in the freezer then sipped neat from chilled small glasses.

The company also produces a Limited Release Vodka, made from the first run of maple sap which is prized among maple syrup producers as well.

Suggested retail price: $45 for the 375ml bottle.

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Old Crow Reserve

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Old Crow is an old name among bourbons, but there's always room for a change. I was fortunate to be sent a free advance sample of Beam Global's newest expression to test the waters before its release.

• Old Crow Reserve

As a longtime bourbon aficionado, I find that although I always enjoy a new expression I tend to lapse back to my "house bourbon" for Manhattans and my sippin' bourbon for quiet moments. For me, that's the standard Jim Beam and the Basil Hayden, in that order.

So, when I come across something that might shake up the order of my universe, I'm always on guard. Was it just the flush of something new that made me reconsider my priorities?

In this case, yes and no. Old Crow Reserve, bottled at 86 proof (43% abv) in a distinctive black-labeled bottle, certainly was new and appealing. But it was not simply something of passing interest. This is a superb spirit that fits splendidly into both of my bourbon uses -- cocktails and straight.

Old Crow Reserve has a lengthy pedigree. It is a four-year-old expression of what was begun in 1835 by Dr. James C. Crow, the Scottish chemist who invented the sour mash process now used by all bourbon distillers. The regular OC is a year younger.

It is slightly oakier than regular Old Crow, itself a light style bourbon, but has the same finely balanced notes of caramel and vanilla that distinguish the good bourbons of Kentucky and give evidence of their maturation in new white oak.

Also, the medium body and higher alcohol content makes Reserve a bit punchier than the standard OC, although without any resultant harshness.

When it hits the market in the coming months, make a point of trying it. I think you'll enjoy the experience.

Suggested retail price: $10 to $12 for the 750ml bottle.

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Edward III New York Absinthe

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Tuthilltown Spirits of Orange County, NY, the state's first licensed distillery since Prohibition, has created a special bottling for a private customer, a first-timer in the distilling game.

• Edward III New York Absinthe

This truly unusual spirit is the final version of a recipe Tuthilltown tweaked and produced for Mark Maurice and Edward Jahn, according to distiller Ralph Erenzo. It may be made elsewhere after the current supply runs out, but that still is up for discussion.

It is the state's second absinthe. The first was created by Cheryl Lins, proprietor of Delaware Phoenix Distillery in Walton, NY, in the western Catskills.

This version of the French liqueur undergoes the traditional two infusions. The first uses a proprietary mixture of herbs and wormwood in a neutral grain spirit, and the second infusion uses melissa (a/k/a/ lemon balm) and more wormwood.

Rather than being green, the most common absinthe color which gave rise to the nickname "The Green Fairy," Edward III is clear. It turns milky when a bit of water is added, rendering it the most drinkable stage.

There is the expected anise in the nose and first taste, but that quickly is joined by hints of violet French pastille candies, camphor and even vague notes of bread, honey and orange. An altogether pleasant product.

Suggested retail price: About $39 for the 375ml bottle.

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Tuthilltown Spirits Portfolio

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Tuthilltown Spirits, located in the lower Hudson Valley of New York, is the state's first licensed distillery since Prohibition. I had the opportunity to sample four of its Hudson brand spirits during a whiskey-pairing dinner at Marché restaurant in Albany, NY, co-hosted by Tuthilltown co-founder and distiller Ralph Erenzo. Note the 375ml bottle, a Tuthilltown exclusive and the only amount in which its spirits are sold.

• Hudson Corn Whiskey

This was Tuthilltown's first product, distilled from 100% New York corn. The expected aromas of popcorn and cooked sweet corn are immediate, but the pleasingly smooth middle range allows a slight sweetness to come through. Not at all the “moonshine” its name might connote. Powerful alcohol notes, typical of the genre. Warm, clean and a good introduction to the portfolio.

Retail price: About $29.

• Hudson Manhattan Rye

This is made from 100% New York rye, which provides a spicy nose and initial palate impact which quickly opens to mix of caramel and clover notes. There is a certain woodsy quality to the spirit after a few drops of water help it open, an altogether pleasing transformation. At once robust and clean on the palate.

Retail price: About $45.

• Hudson Baby Bourbon

This was Tuthilltown's first aged whiskey, distilled from a 100% corn mash and the first New York-made bourbon. As a bourbon-first person, I'm comfortable saying this holds its own against any better-known such expression: The requisite vanilla and caramel notes, a hint of oak in the middle notes, and a long, very smooth finish.

Retail price: About $55.

• Hudson Single Malt

If your taste in single malts runs toward the unpeated expressions, this is a good option. It is darker and richer than many Scotch whiskeys, a result of using 100% malted Canadian barley. Excellent as an after-dinner sip, tahnks to its dark caramel notes with hints of pear and cardamom.

Retail price: About $55.

Tuthilltown also makes several vodkas, a four-grain bourbon, a New York whiskey and a rye whiskey.

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NY craft distilled spirits

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New York's fledgling craft distilling movement is gaining momentum as well as expertise. At a recent seminar and tasting held in Saratoga Springs, I had the opportunity to try several flights of products.

UNAGED SPIRITS

• LiV Vodka: This spirit, utilizing the region’s signature potatoes, gets your attention immediately with its slightly citrusy nose, its pleasing oiliness and its hints of grapefruit and rose petals. I’d put LiV right into the top echelon of potato vodkas I’ve sampled in recent years. From Long Island Spirits.

• Harvest Spirits Core Vodka: This apple-based clear spirit is true to its origin with a vaguely apple note and a hint of spice. Smooth, warm and clean finishing. From Golden Harvest Farms in Columbia County.

• Hidden Marsh BEE Vodka: A honey-based spirit with a bit of a sting. Not that acrid sharpness lower-priced vodkas have, but a pleasant note on the tongue, and a warm, smooth finish. From the Montezuma Winery in Seneca Falls.

• Mazza Chautauqua Plum Eau de Vie: This is a delicate spirit, with floral notes and touches of cardamom and orange. An excellent product. From Mazza Chautauqua Cellars in Chautauqua County.

• Seneca Drums Gin: This is an extremely distinctive gin, with botanicals that provide the imbiber with clover, menthol and spice, all things that will hold up to a dry vermouth or a fruit juice when mixed into a cocktail. From Finger Lakes Distilling in Burdett.

• Tuthilltown Spirits New York Corn Whiskey: A delightfully robust and smooth product, not at all the “moonshine” its name might connote. Powerful alcohol notes, typical of the genre. From Tuthilltown Spirits in Orange County.

AGED SPIRITS

• Tuthilltown Spirits Manhattan Rye Whiskey: Spicy, floral, a great nose. At once robust and clean on the palate. An excellent addition to the category.

• McKenzie Rye Whiskey: A pronounced caramel and clove yin-and-yang that makes this rich spirit distinctive. From Finger Lakes Distilling.

• Harvest Spirits Cornelius Applejack: A nicely old-fashioned style to this recipe, which results in touches of apple, cloves, caramel and violet.

• Hidden Marsh Queen’s Flight Honey Brandy: A multi-level taste profile, with eucalyptus on top and warm honey notes below. An underlying smoothness to the overall taste.

• Warwick Valley Bourbon Barrel Apple Liqueur: This is a hard cider with aged apple brandy added, finished in once-used bourbon barrels. There is a buttery feel to it, with pronounced flavor of Jonagold apples. A gentle, refined spirit.

CORDIALS

• Mazza Chautauqua Grappa of Steuben: Steuben and vidal are the two most-used grappa base ingredients among New York distillers. This version is clean, slightly floral and has a honeyed finish.

• Long Island Spirits Sorbetta Lemon: Immediately reminiscent of French pastille candies in the aroma. A lovely lemon yellow color, fruit forward but with a distinct touch of butterscotch in the finish.

• Long Island Spirits Sorbetta Orange: Orange cake frosting comes immediately to mind. A touch cloying in the middle notes, but the citrus then comes to the rescue and the finish is clean and refreshing.

• Warwick Valley Sour Cherry Cordial: This is the way I like cherry pie to taste — a hint of cinnamon and cloves, a touch of the tartness of the New York Montmorency cherries, made with a brandy of cherries, grapes and apples. Superb.

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American Fruits Sour Cherry Liqueur

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The Warwick Vallery Winery & Distillery in Orange County, NY, was the state's first fruit micro-distillery in modern times. At the distillery, it is developing a line of American Fruits-brand ports, brandies and eau de vies.

• American Fruits Sour Cherry Liqueur

This clear ruby liqueur has non of the cloying thickness of so many of its ilk. It is a combination of fresh New York Montmorency cherries and their proprietary distilled spirit, a brandy of grapes, cherries and apples.

The first aroma of the finished product fairly screams "Cherry pie!" But, don't be fooled into thinking this is just another overwrought product.

Hints of clove and cinnamon mingle with the aroma of robust cherries, then the palate-clinging yet clean liquid hits the tongue with a complex warmth that trails off into a pleasing aftertaste of crisp fruit.

An excellent cordial, sold at 20% alcohol by volume (40 proof).

Suggested retail price: $14.99 for the 375ml bottle.

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McKenzie Rye Whiskey

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Put two unrelated guys together who share not only a surname but a love of spirits and the result is Finger Lakes Distilling, a craft distillery in the heart of New York's Finger Lakes wine country. The partners are Brian McKenzie and Earl McKenzie, and they produce a line of spirits that includes, rye, bourbon, gin, vodka and liqueurs.

• McKenzie Rye Whiskey

This golden amber rye, bottled at 45.5% alcohol by volume (91 proof), is on the market at a good time. Nationwide, the rye resurgence continues unabated in America.

The rye's color is an eye-catcher, as is the squat bottle reminiscent of what once was the standard bottle shape for this most American of spirits.

As a New York State Farm Distillery, Finger Lakes uses locally-grown grains. This non-chill-filtered spirit is made from a mash of rye, corn and barley malt. It is aged in new charred quarter-cask oak and given a finish in sherry barrels from local wineries.

Once inside, the attraction grows. This rye is immediately assertive on the palate, offering a bite of clove smoothed with notes of caramel and clover. Hints of orange peel, mint and cardamom come through, with a buttery finish.

This is an excellent example of the craft distiller's art, particularly interesting since it comes from a comparatively new enterprise.

Suggested retail price: $40 for the 750ml bottle.

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Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel

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Sustainable agriculture is the emerging thing in the global wine industry. In the Rhone Valley of France, one of the oldest commercial terroirs in the world, Domaine de la Mordorée is one of the leading winemakers using such methods.

• Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel

It is refreshing to come across a rosé I can call something other than summery and light. Mordorée's Tavel is as hearty as any rosé you'll encounter.

This blend of traditional grape varieties from the region includes Grenache (60%), Syrah (20%), Cinsault (10%) and Clairette (10%). The result is a smooth, fruit forward wine with a restrained bouquet but palate notes of young strawberries and ripe raspberries along with floral hints.

I tested it against a bolder meal than you'd usually pair up with a rosé -- panko-crusted sauteed chicken breasts with a heavily-herbed sauce of fresh diced tomatoes, shallots, capers and jalapeños, sided by fresh spinach and pomme frites.

It not only held up, it aided the various items on the plate, the blend acting as a connecting flavor factor from the first sip to the last bite.

Suggested retail price: $24.99.

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Diplomático Reserve Blanco Rum

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In a field dominated by industriale style rums, it's nice to do a sampling of an agricole style -- one made from sugar cane rather than molasses -- with obvious quality.

• Diplomático Reserve Blanco Rum

This ultra premium spirit was introduced to the global market last fall at RumFest in London. It has gotten excellent early notices, with gold medals in a variety of competitions that still value gold rather than awarding it simply to attract more paid entries.

Diplomático is made in Venezuela by Destilerias Unidas, which utilizes three pot stills and four column stills to produce nearly 50 different rum recipes. It also produces Cacique rum and is the major spirit producer for the Pampero blend.

Everything except this Diplomático Blanco is made from molasses. It is distilled from sugar cane four times, filtered five, and mellowed in white oak casks but catches none of the color from the wood.

The nose instantly offers up light floral notes with a vague promise of pineapple. On the palate we begin to notice elements of vanilla, cream and a touch of spice that is at once velvety and peppery.

The finish is long, warm and rich, with a tropical taste of coconut and banana. Excellent structure and layering, making it a fine sipping rum.

Suggested retail price: about $30 for the 750ml bottle.

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Passoã

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Sometimes a liqueur gets short shrift among tasting notes collections because they're not really at their best when consumed straight. But, when they work well in cocktails, they deserve special notice. This is one such product.

• Passoã: The Passion Drink

The label design, the Web site sales pitch, indeed the whole mood of Passoã screams Brazil and the Caribbean even if the spelling of "flavor" is the English style, "flavour." However, this 40-proof liqueur is a product of France and is imported by Remy Cointreau USA.

Origin aside, the passion fruit flavor base is bold and pleasing, an inviting tangy sweetness that immediately got me thinking about cocktail combinations.

The makers most often suggest orange or grapefruit juice, and even have added some infused versions to the product line -- cocõ (coconut), mango and anañas (pineapple). I decided to try it in an even more Brazilian mannner -- with cachaça. The result was excellent.

2 parts Boca Loca cachaça
1 part Passoã
Pineapple juice
Maraschino cherry for garnish

Half-fill a cocktail tumbler with fresh ice, pour cachaça and Passoã over the ice, top with pineapple juice, stir briskly to blend, garnish with a cherry and serve.

Suggested retail price: $17.99 for the 750ml bottle.

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Ron Atlantico Private Cask Rum

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It takes a long time for Ron Atlantico rum to go from its birthplace in the Dominican Republic to market throughout the Caribbean -- and now in the U.S. -- due to its multi-layered aging process. It is worth the wait.

• Ron Atlantico Private Cask Rum

This Dominican gem is a blend of several small-batch dark rums. But, it is more than that.

The blend then is placed in small, used bourbon barrels -- the "private cask" in the name -- and the marriage is made for another year or two. But, it is more than that.

After that aging step, the rum then is placed in another set of barrels and aged from 15 to 25 years.

What results is a complex rum appealing to eye, nose and palate. The classic flavors from rum's sugar base -- caramel and molasses -- are immediately evident, quickly followed on both nose and tongue by the bourbon barrel notes of vanilla, butterscotch and oakiness.

Ron Atlantico, which I tasted with simply a cube of ice to help open it, is smooth and warm while at the same time bold and assertive, giving your palate something to mull over. The longer one swirls the sample and allows it to continue opening, the more vanilla comes through. However, at no time was the sweetness out of balance.

Suggested retail price: about $35 for the 750ml bottle, each one numbered.

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Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage

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This red comes from a French specialist in Syrah-based Rhone Valley wines.

• Paul Jaboulet Aine 2005 "Les Jalets" Crozes Hermitage

The syrah grape is a wonderful wine grape, plump and bursting with goodness if the weather has been kind. And, when they are grown in the sandy soil along the Rhone River in France, they are often of the highest qualty.

That is immediately apparent in the rich, soft, deep flavor of this particular expression, the Les Jalets, from quarter-century-old vines. The word "jalets" is from the Old French for pebbles left in the region when alpine glaciers receded.

The ruby violet color promises much, and that is delivered with a spicy berry nose, followed by the flavors of black currants and even a hint of stone fruits. They mix well in the nose and on the palate.

This is a remarkably drinkable wine just hitting its peak. I'd recommend it on its own or with adventurous cuisine.

Suggested retail price: $23.

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Southern Comfort Ready-to-Drink Cocktails

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Southern Comfort has been a popular American liqueur since it was created in the late 19th Century in New Orleans. Now, the Brown-Forman label has added two ready-to-drink (RTD) cocktails to its brand portfolio. Both are of the "pour over ice and drink" variety.

• Sweet Tea Cocktail

This flavor actually tastes like, well, sweet tea, with the slight heat of Southern Comfort that touches the back of the tongue and warms the throat in a most pleasant way. Even a vague hint of orange can be detected, adding a complexity to the formula.

Sweet tea, a Southern drink of great popularity, has made its way into the spirits world in the past few years, spurred along perhaps most by the instant popularity of Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka from South Carolina and Burnett's Sweet Tea Vodka from Heaven Hill Distilleries. However, this Southern Comfort version has less alcohol punch, thus making it a more viable libation for warm summer months, or just a casual drink that needs no fussing.

Suggested retail price: $19.99 for the 1.75-liter bottle, the only size being marketed.

• Hurricane Cocktail

The original is a New Orleans staple, purportedly invented at Pat O'Brien's bar in the French Quarter. It should hit the palate of people who like a fruity taste to their light cocktails. The original contained both light and dark rums plus juices from oranges, limes and passion fruit.

The Southern Comfort version has a fresh, light fruity taste and the rosey color of the O'Brien's cocktail that came from the addition of grenadine syrup. In this recipe, one can taste the soft fruits, even a fleeting note of grapefruit in the aftertaste. Very easy to drink.

Suggested retail price: $19.99 for the 1.75-liter bottle, the only size being marketed.

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The Glenlivet Portfolio

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Today, the Glenlivet portfolio has grown under the ownership of the international corporation Pernod Ricard to include six whiskies -- the basic 12-year-old expression, a 15-year-old French oak reserve, the Nadurra (Celtic for “natural”) 16-year-old, as well as 18- and 21-year-old expressions and, for just the past eight months, the XXV, a 25-year-old. The Glenlivet Cellar Collection also has seven releases, with the 1972 expression the latest on the market.

• 12-Year-Old

Much of the signature honey and floral flavors are immediately accesible, with a soft finish leaving a trace of vanilla on the palate.

Suggested retail price range: $42 and up.

• 15-Year-Old French Oak

My particular favorite among the Glenlivets. It spends 12 years in used American white oak barrels, then a portion of it is matured in French Limousin oak before being returned to the whole. It is the only Glenlivet that uses French oak. It presents citrus and cedar notes in the opening nose and everything from pepper to mango on the tongue, with a long, clean slightly spicy finish.

Suggested retail price range: $49 to $54.

• 18-Year-Old

This is aged in American white oak, with a small amount finished in used oloroso sherry casks to make use of the softer, more porous wood that helps intensify the notes of fruit, nuts and florals, with honey, banana and almonds the most pronounced flavors.

Suggested retail price: $80.

• 21-Year-Old

Some charred wood comes through from the used American oak casks, along with slightly more fruit and spiciness than in the 18. The color runs to deep amber, and the flavor profile to pears, spiced oranges and vanilla with a delicate yet lingering finish.

Suggested retail price: $100 to $112.

• Nadurra

This is a cask strength whisky (115.2 proof, or 56.1% alcohol by volume) best sampled as a 3-to-1 water-to-whisky mixture. It is non-chill filtered, which means it could get cloudy on the shelf. Nothing wrong with that. The flavor is light, yet crisp, quickly giving way to intense notes of honey and toffee. Long, lingering finish.

Suggested retail price: $60 to $65.

• XXV

This is 23 years in American white oak, two years in oloroso sherry casks, and worth the wait. A creamy orange and honey flavor, with definite elements of almonds and ginger in a complex structure.

Suggested retail price: $330 and up.

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The Diamond Standard Vodka

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It's not the first vodka to be filtered through diamonds (see my tasting notes on Baojing 168), but this Polish creation may be the classiest packaging to come along in years. Although the spirit is made in Poland, the company is owned by Diamond Beverages LLC of Lake Forest, IL.

• The Diamond Standard Vodka

When I first saw a bottle of this vodka, I was mesmerized by the clean, understated elegance of the packaging. A true work of art.

It's a tall, slim perfume-grade Saverglass bottle with a round-cut 25 mm Swarovski crystal imbedded near the neck, and raised glass droplets appearing to come from the crystal. Around the neck is a silver-metal medallion attesting to the authenticity of the Swarovski element.

It is truly a work of art, celebrating Poland's foremost crystal artisan. Curious, then, that the stopper is made of plastic and a compound "cork." On my bottle, the two separated when the glue gave way, which necessitated employing a pair of pliers to open the bottle. (Note: Notified of this, a company rep told me "The cap separation ... has been corrected. The new production will be the same clear top without the cork; it will be a screw-on top.")

Inside, however, was a testament to the overall craftsmanship of Polish vodkas, be they made from potatoes or from grains. In this case, it's the latter.

The small-batch vodka is crafted at the historic Polmos Siedlce distillery from Dankowski Diamond Rye, the most preferred of Polish grains. It is distilled four times and filtered four times through a proprietary process using thousands of De Beers diamonds.

Diamond Standard is quickly moving to the top of my list of best grain-based vodkas. It is an uncommonly smooth, warm spirit, lacking any hint of edginess. As always with ultra-premium vodkas, forget the definition of "odorless." This has ephemeral hints of citrus and grassiness and the barest hint of thyme.

Suggested retail price: $79 for the 750ml bottle.

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Finlandia Tangerine Fusion Vodka

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Finlandia's latest vodka product, Tangerine Fusion, debuts on the U.S. market today. The company already had such flavored vodkas as lime, cranberry, grapefruit, mango and wildberries in addition to its basic unflavored spirit.

• Finlandia Tangerine Fusion Vodka

I've found some orange- or tangerine-infused vodkas a bit too sweet for my taste, something that tends to overwhelm many cocktail recipes. This product avoids that problem, with a tangy citrus note that smacks more of the tangerine zest than of the sweeter pulp.

That may be because the flavoring is natural, rather than a chemical additive. It comes through that way in the nose and then on the palate, gentling a bit as the sample is savored and slowly opens.

There is a somewhat floral note as well, a creaminess and warmth to the nicely filtered product, yet nothing reluctant about it. You know you're drinking a full-bodied vodka.

Like most flavored vodkas, particularly citrus-infused, this is a spirit best consumed as part of a cocktail. One example, created for Finlandia by celebrity bartender Tony Abou-Ganim, is the "Summer Solstice." It contains two ounces of the Tangerine Fusion, a half-ounce each of Cointreau, Campari bitters and blood orange juice, three-quarters of an ounce of lemon sour mix, shaken with ice, strained into a martini glass and garnished with a lime twist.

Suggested retail price: $18.99 for the 750ml bottle.

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Faretti Biscotti Famosi

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Faretti, the Italian maker of numerous liqueurs, prides itself on making the liquid version of iconic pastries taste eerily similar to those of the solid versions.

• Faretti Biscotti Famosi

If I didn't know better, I'd swear that the craftsmen at Faretti had simply crushed a batch of biscotti into a slightly syrupy form and bottled it.

Of course, that's not the method for making this liqueur, but the result is like having the rustic, iconic Italian baked treat in drinkable form. The signature flavors of almond, honey and even the biscuit itself are immediately obvious in both the nose and on the palate.

The more you sip the more the flavor profile opens, revealing hints of citrus, fennel, caramel and vanilla.

This is an excellent liqueur, equally serviceable as a standalone sip or in mixed drinks. Its layered flavors make it work in such diverse combinations as a "Liquid Cannoli" (1 part Faretti with 2 parts milk or cream) and "Tuscan Sidecar" (1 part Faretti, 2 parts cognac, 1 part lemon juice, dash of orange bitters).

As for me, I'd recommend it in place of dessert. It is that good, and that satisfying.

Suggested retail price: $25.99.

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Tenampa Azul Tequila

Gran Centenario is one of the major tequila brand names, and the company has a lengthy line of products.

• Tenampa Azul Tequila

This expression of 100% blue agave tequila ("azul" is Spanish for "blue") may be rested for two months in charred American oak barrels, but it retains the heat and edge of a new spirit. That's a good thing for those who prefer a bitier tequila compared to the more aged expressions taking an ever-larger chunk of the market.

The roasted agave notes come through immediately on the nose, joined by hints of green apple, oak and roses.

An ever-so-slight element of sweetness -- banana and vanilla -- is evident in the complex flavor profile, yet the heat and slight bite prevail.

This is an excellent reposado, ideal for cocktails because the taste will hold up, and because it's a good value for the price. And, just in time for Cinco de Mayo festivities.

Suggested retail price: $21.99.

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Villa Antinori Bianco

Villa Antinori is one of my regular house Italian reds, and perhaps the color for which the ancient label is best known. However, the 600-year-old Tuscan winemaker also produces some very nice whites. This is one such.

• Villa Antinori Bianco, Toscana IGT 2008

This is an example of summer in a bottle. A very reasonably priced, spritely, crisp summer.

The Toscana IGY is a blend of four estate-grown grapes -- 70% Trebbiano & Malvasia, and 30% Chardonay Toscano, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio.

The result is a lightly golden color, a floral nose hinting mostly of rose petals and clover blossoms, and a taste of rich grapes and mild melon, apple and pear, with a clean acidity on the finish.

This will pair nicely with grilled chicken or fish, a cheese-and-fruit platter, or even a bold panini.

Suggested retail price: $14.

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Tequila Ocho Plata

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A vintage-dated tequila? The second such has just hit the markets in time for the Cinco de Mayo celebration, and it's from the same Corona Del Mar, CA, company that introduced dated Mexican-made tequilas with its 2008 line. For 2009, 12,695 bottles were produced, according to the label information on my sample, compared to about 11,000 bottles of the 2008.

• Tequila Ocho Plata

Tequila is, by its very nature, essentially a young spirit. Yes, there are reposados, añejos, even extra añejos, but the quality of the fire and passion of the younger spirit are the hallmarks to be assessed.

Both the plata and reposado varieties are available now, but the 2009 añejo, aged for a full year, will not be released until July.

Tequila Ocho is the product of collaboration between third-generation tequila maker Felipe Camarena and Tomas Estes, ambassador of Tequila to Europe. The blue agaves are harvested from various Camarena ranches, but care is made not to mix fruits from different areas, thus preserving the "terroir" so prized in the wine industry and just now being noticed in the tequila world.

Tequila Ocho Plata has taken on a bolder character this year.

The original Rancho Carrizal Estate expression was a creamy, soft spirit with touches of banana, mango and sweetness. This year's plata, from Rancho Las Pomez Estate, has more of the agave base in the nose, along with hints of lime and mint. On the palate, a pleasant oiliness carries with it elements of jalapeño, carambola, pimiento and pepper.

Suggested retail price: An ultra-premium pricing, with the plata and reposado at $60 and $70, respectively, for the 750ml bottle. When the añejo -- from El Carrizal -- comes out, it will be priced at $80.

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Tanteo Flavored Tequilas

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Tequila goes beautifully with so many things -- limes, fruits, even jalapeño peppers. The latter is the key to the flavors in a trio of infused Tanteo tequilas, even if the major flavorings are from other sources.

• Tanteo Flavored Tequilas

Tequilas, at least 100% blue agave-based expressions, have enough variables in their flavor profile to satisfy most people. But infusions are the order of the day -- take a look at the vodka shelves in your local spirits shop -- so some entrepreneurs see tequila as ripe to join that contemporary market niche.

Tanteo's infused blanco tequilas do not disappoint. Although jalapeño is the base infusion for the three flavors I tried, it gets top billing in only one. The others are chocolate and tropical. They were launched just a few months ago, the result of a plan by company CEO and co-founder Jonathan Rojewski who had to get the tequila regulating body of Mexico to waive its restriction against infusions.

The tequilas are distilled, infused and bottled in Tequila, the Mexican city that is the heart of the tequila industry.

The tropical flavor offers many fruit notes from extractions of mango, pineapple and guanabana. It reminded me of a semi-sweet piña-style tropical drink all on its own, with a slight peppery touch of the jalapeño for balance.

The chocolate smells like the kind of rich malted fountain drink we used to get many years ago, easy evidence of the roasted, malted and raw cocoa used in its creation. Again, a touch of pepper from the jalapeño is a perfect Mexican balance of unsweetened chocolate and heat found in some of its cuisine such as molés.

The jalapeño flavor itself has a fresh, clean, peppery nose from four separate infusions of organic peppers. There is a lush heat to this creation that demands restrained sipping, thus allowing the imbiber to experience the full range of the agave nectar and bitey pepper notes.

The bottle was designed by company co-founder Lincoln Mayne, a graphic artist with roots in Manhattan's SoHo neighborhood. It is made of handcrafted rustic glass with naturally occuring bubbles, a cork enclosure and a vintage-style wax seal, all much nicer than the small sampling bottles pictured above.

Suggested retail price: $45 for the 750ml bottle.

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Tres Generaciones Plata Tequila

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Tres Generaciones traces its roots to 1873 when Don Cenobio Sauza created his first tequila. The brand name covers his tenure as well as those of his son Eladio and his son Javier -- three generations. The company history says Don Cenobio was the first to export tequila to the U.S.

• Tres Generaciones Plata Tequila

This expression is a delight from the first sniff to the last nuance on the palate. I don't recall having such a positive response to a Tres Generaciones blanco before this re-launch.

A pleasantly buttery, peppery nose immediately made me realize this was a tequila to be savored. The more it is inhaled, the more the faint nuances of banana, jalapeño and tequila nectar emerge.

This is an unaged 100% Weber blue agave estate-grown product, created from agave piñas harvested on the Sauza ranch in Jalisco state.

It is triple distilled, but that is a term open to interpretation; in the distillation process a spirit can be "distilled" numerous times, but that doesn't necessarily guarantee smoothness. However, in this case it has resulted in a tequila with a silken mouthfeel, a full-bodied expression with lush middle notes, and a long, slow finish that gives rise to the desire to quickly take the whole trip again.

I mentioned this is a re-launch. Tres Geraciones' 80-proof tequilas are packaged in plata, reposado and añejos expressions in its familar bottle with a barrel-shaped bottom but the bottles now feature a front label with medallions of the three founding Dons, the family crest on the neck, and a textured, beaten medal collar -- silver for the plata, gold for the reposado, bronze for the añejo -- and the bottle is topped with a wood and cork stopper.

Suggested retail price: $45.99 for the Plata in a 750ml bottle, $47.99 for the reposado and $49.99 for the añejo.

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Red Stag by Jim Beam

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Billed as the first Jim Beam innovation in more than a decade, this black cherry-infused bourbon joins the industry trend toward more flavored spirits. It will be on the market in June.

• Red Stag by Jim Beam

As a longtime bourbon drinker, I'm a bit set in my ways. I like several brands, but I started on Jim Beam way back when, and that's my go-to whiskey. But, I also find the small-batch brands -- Elijah Craig, Booker's, Basil Hayden, Baker's -- enjoyable, both straight or in cocktails, so I'm not against a little variety.

That said, it took me several tries to cozy up to this new offering. A classic Manhattan cocktail is whiskey, sweet vermouth, bitters and a maraschino cherry. Sometimes a little bit of the cherry juice is added for those who like their drinks on the sweeter side.

Beam says Red Stag is an "extension of the cherry infusion made popular in the Manhattan cocktail." I'd quibble a bit with that, since the cocktail's cherry is maraschino, not black cherry as is used in this new expression. They're two different tastes.

Thus, when I tried Red Stag as the primary ingredient in a Manhattan I found it far too sweet for my taste. A tasting companion expressed the same reaction. I also tried it cut half-and-half with regular Jim Beam bourbon plus the usual vermouth and bitters. It still didn't have the appeal I sought.

But, when we tried it straight, at room temperature, in a tasting glass, we both liked it. What we have here, in my view, is a nice liqueur: warm, with a bit of spice from the rye in the grain mash, with mild notes of vanilla and caramel from the oak maturation that balanced off the black cherry infusion.

Suggested retail price: $3 above Jim Beam White. So, local pricing will prevail.

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A 9-rum Caribbean tasting

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While in Frederikstedt, St. Croix, to meet with master distiller Gary Nelthropp at Cruzan Rum, I had the opportunity in a converted 19th Century carriage house on the Cruzan complex to do a blind tasting of nine 80-proof rums of varying style: Cruzan, Bacardi, Pyrat and Myers's. The tasting was led by Jim Beam Brands' master mixologist Bobby "Bobby G" Gleason.

• Bacardi Superior: A honey fragrance with a surprisingly lingering finish atop banana and apple notes and the characteristic Bacardi mild burn.

• Cruzan Estate Light: A gentle nose with honey and applesauce notes, then elements of caramel, vanilla and sweet apple in the mid-range and finish.

• Bacardi Reserva: More of the honey nose, but with the added element of butterscotch, which made the slight acidity of the taste a surprise. A round, structured mouth-feel.

• Cruzan 2-Year Dark: Here we moved into softer, more refined fragrances of brown sugar and tropical tastes of coconut and pineapple. A very agreeable product.

• Bacardi 8: Fragrances of almonds and creme brulee precede a spicy, nutty rum with the tropical notes of pineapple and toasted coconut. Complex and pleasing.

• Pyrat XO: This is a blend of rums from nine different pot stills. The strong aroma of orange peel creates an expectation of something like a Grand Marnier, and that's what comes through along with touches of anise and cinnamon. A nice dessert offering.

• Cruzan Single Barrel: Vanilla, almonds and allspice all compete in the nose, but the taste is dry, soft and Scotch-like with a hint of orange. Very nice sipping rum.

• Myers's Origional Dark: Notes of maple and chocolate in the nose, which match up with the dark color, then more chocolate, plus coffee and some molasses in the haste and finish.

• Cruzan Black Strap Navy Style: This two-year-old is flavored with dark molasses, and that's what comes through in the nose and in the initial taste. It quickly softens, and coffee elements come through, leading to a long, smooth finish.

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LiV Vodka

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Long Island lost the vast majority of its farms when the post-World War II housing boom sent streams of people east from New York City and in from other states in search of affordable housing from the late 1940s well into the early '60s. Luckily, the famous Long Island potato survived on the still-agricultural far eastern points of the island. Here's one reason I use the word "luckily."

• LiV Vodka

LiV rhymes with "5," and has that many influences. Not the vodka itself. That's 100% Long Island potatoes, which immediately puts it into the super-premium category, as well as the gluten-free category an increasing number of consumers look for. But it does have (1.) German-made stills, (2.) tamper-proof tin wrapping caps from Portugal, (3.) a brushed aluminum-topped Italian cork, (4.) a bottle made of French glass with painted labels, and (5.) branded, custom wooden shipping cases made of Western pine.

Those are a combination of positive conceits and marketing strategies. But, as always in this game, it's what's inside that in the final analysis trumps everything else.

Company founders Richard Stabile and Dan Pollicino have nothing to be concerned about. LiV gets your attention immediately with its slightly citrusy nose, its pleasing oiliness and its hints of grapefruit and rose petals. No need even to chill LiV as one tends to do to other vodkas to bring out its nuances. Properly crafted potato vodkas tend to stand on their own without a lot of temperature tweaking by the drinker.

I'd put LiV right into the top echelon of potato vodkas I've sampled in recent years -- Chopin from Poland, Cirrus from Virginia, 44˚North from Idaho.

Suggested retail price: $38 for the 750ml bottle.

[Note: This review originally was posted in August 2008 when LiV was available only in a very limited area. It is being re-posted because the distiller has just announced a distribution deal with Winebow Inc., the third largest distributor in New York State, to sell LiV not only in New York, but also in Connecticut, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Pennsylvania and Washington DC.]

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Belvedere IX

Belvedere Vodka is not one of the pack that comes up with new products seemingly every few months. But when it does add to its portfolio, it does so with a flourish.

• Belvedere IX

Two years ago, in a private tasting lunch in New York with Plymouth Gin master distiller Sean Harrison, we were discussing the popularity of vodka compared to gin. He admitted there were some very good vodkas on the market that presented huge hurdles for gin to clear in its attempt at a comeback. However, he noted of the continual tinkering with vodka recipes, "If they keep on going, pretty soon they'll invent gin."

Well, they have. At least Belvedere, the Polish distiller, has, even though it is calling its new creation vodka.

Vodka and gin both begin as neutral spirits, but gin departs from that by the addition of various botanicals, predominantly juniper berries which provide its major taste component. Vodka often is changed by flavor infusions such as fruits, but not usually by any complicated botanical recipe.

Belvedere IX (pronounced "one X") has nine flavor additions to its base -- guarana, ginger, ginseng, acai, eucalyptus, cinnamon leaf, almond, jasmine and black cherry. Belvedere can call it a vodka all it wants, but to me it's a gin. And a damned tasty one.

Cold from several hours in the freezer, IX is an absolute delight sipped straight. The menthol-like coolness of the eucalyptus comes through immediately, with the zip of the ginger evident on tongue and palate. A vague hint of black cherry comes in on the finish. A lot of very distinct flavors somehow fusing into one pleasing one.

This is a very special "vodka" I'd recommend drinking very cold, as I did, and without fussing with it. It's meant to be part of a cocktail recipe, say its makers, but I don't know that I'd go that route immediately. The proprietary recipe, and the base vodka made from the signature Dankowskie Gold rye of Poland, has resulted in a fine product all on its own merits.

The company, named for the country's presidential palace, just this week launched Belvedere IX in club circles in conjunction with Parisian graffiti artist Andre Saraiva who designed the label -- a "tagged" glossy black bottle with electric pink graffiti, reinventing the trademark palace and trees as a nighttime vision.

Suggested retail price: Not yet set. If it's not immediately available in your favorite spirits shop, be patient. It will be by spring.

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