Van Gogh Blue Vodka

Van Gogh added this triple wheat vodka to its extensive portfolio at an interesting time -- when most competitors are adding flavored vodkas. Not that the Dutch distiller has ignored that. It recently added açai-blueberry and double espresso flavors.

• Van Gogh Blue Vodka
  
 Master distiller Tim Vos uses three different European wheats in creating this vodka in small batches at the Royal Dirkzwager distillery in Schiedam, Netherlands. The result? Well, if an uninfused vodka can be said to have layers, this one does.

Vos explains the wheat selections this way:

"In Holland, the wheat is cultivated near the Dutch coast and is, therefore, a bit salty and dry from the maritime influence. The harvest in France comes from the center of the country and possesses a sweeter profile. While in Germany, the wheat is grown inb an area where the water comes from the melted ice of a nearby mountain, providing the grain with a mineral taste."

The words "nuanced" and "creamy" come readily to mind when sipping Van Gogh Blue fresh from the freezer. In short, a pleasing mouthfeel, a velvety middle with no astringency or edgy alcohol, and a crisp finish.

It also held up nicely to a splash of dry vermouth as a martini on the rocks.

Suggested retail price: $29 for the 750ml bottle.

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King Family Vineyards Meritage 2007

The Virginia wine industry may fly under the radar when it comes to national attention, but the commonwealth has many fine wineries. This particular wine was the Governor's Cup winner, the top prize, in the recent 2010 Virginia Wine Expo in Richmond. Earlier, it earned double gold in the 2009 Monticello Cup.

• King Family Vineyards Meritage 2007

The deep garnet color arrests the eye. The first sip commands the taster's attention. The long, rich finish satisfies.

This blend is multi-layered, full fruited and bold. A blend of 56% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot, 16% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Malbec, it was aged in French oak for 18 months.

Thus, it has a very mixed heritage, a veritable melting pot of a wine. Immediate notes of plum, black cherry and raisins vie for dominance, but as it breathes additional toasty, smoky notes of clove and the wood emerge.

The silken, pleasingly clingy finish lingers just long enough to encourage another sip. A superb job by winemaker Matthieu Finot. Regretably, he and owner David King produced only 615 cases.

Suggested retail price: $25.95.

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Vermont Spirits Vodkas

There is no organic matter that cannot be used to make vodka. Thus, what Harry Gorman, the distiller for Duncan's Spirits of St. Johnsbury, VT, is producing makes great use of that fact and the fact that its home area has some very distinctive products.

• Vermont White and Vermont Gold

The White vodka is delivered with a distinctive white cow embossed on the rear panel of the tall, elegant, four-sided bottles imported from France. It's a small-batch 80-proof vodka, triple distilled from pure milk sugar, combined with local spring water, then run lightly through charcoal filters.

There is a vague citrus note to the opening nose, and a clean, crisp finish on the tongue and throat. Despite its base, it is lactose free.

The Gold, with a gold leaf on the reverse side, is distilled from 100% maple sap, an iconic Vermont ingredient, bottled at 80 proof.

The company rather grandly refers to it as "the single malt of vodka." Considering the differences in time and attention between vodka and singly malt whiskey, that's a bit much. However, using maple sugar differs from the use of grains -- from which 90% of vodka is made -- in that cooking the grain mash is what releases the sugar from the starches. Since maple syrup is sugar already released from starch, it could be argued that it already has undergone a superb natural release.

The Gold is a very smooth, warm and clean spirit, especially nice when stored in the freezer then sipped neat from chilled small glasses.

The company also produces a Limited Release Vodka, made from the first run of maple sap which is prized among maple syrup producers as well.

Suggested retail price: $45 for the 375ml bottle.

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Old Crow Reserve

Bill Dowd photo

Old Crow is an old name among bourbons, but there's always room for a change. I was fortunate to be sent a free advance sample of Beam Global's newest expression to test the waters before its release.

• Old Crow Reserve

As a longtime bourbon aficionado, I find that although I always enjoy a new expression I tend to lapse back to my "house bourbon" for Manhattans and my sippin' bourbon for quiet moments. For me, that's the standard Jim Beam and the Basil Hayden, in that order.

So, when I come across something that might shake up the order of my universe, I'm always on guard. Was it just the flush of something new that made me reconsider my priorities?

In this case, yes and no. Old Crow Reserve, bottled at 86 proof (43% abv) in a distinctive black-labeled bottle, certainly was new and appealing. But it was not simply something of passing interest. This is a superb spirit that fits splendidly into both of my bourbon uses -- cocktails and straight.

Old Crow Reserve has a lengthy pedigree. It is a four-year-old expression of what was begun in 1835 by Dr. James C. Crow, the Scottish chemist who invented the sour mash process now used by all bourbon distillers. The regular OC is a year younger.

It is slightly oakier than regular Old Crow, itself a light style bourbon, but has the same finely balanced notes of caramel and vanilla that distinguish the good bourbons of Kentucky and give evidence of their maturation in new white oak.

Also, the medium body and higher alcohol content makes Reserve a bit punchier than the standard OC, although without any resultant harshness.

When it hits the market in the coming months, make a point of trying it. I think you'll enjoy the experience.

Suggested retail price: $10 to $12 for the 750ml bottle.

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